Busted A/C! What are my options?

Hey y’all

I bought my 05’ with a busted A/C. After a good while of full time living out of it, and numerous complaints from my girlfriend, I’ve been investigating the issue. I typically stay coastal, so it’s been a manageable issue so far, but getting stuck in traffic inland feels like a near death experience.

There are likely a few problems, mainly the doors to control air flow don’t work when trying to isolate the upper vents, and the air blows cold-ish. The system is charged. I think the issue is the compressor, compressor sensor, temp control gauge for evaporator, and maybe the cable for the vent doors. (I’m not a mechanic so don’t take my diagnosis too serious).

I got it casually checked out by a mechanic, but a proper diag is about $200 in California. The main issue seems to be my budget, and the fact that the job cost is likely 90% labor and hourly is $120-150 out here.

I’m looking for any Tundra specific input regarding the issue, as well as wondering if it’s worth traveling to cheaper area for? I’m about to head to Nevada/Utah/Colorado, and confirmed with a mechanic in Utah they charge $80 an hour. I don’t mind camping for a night or two to save a couple hundred, but would love to hear anyone experienced in doing such a thing.

I’m sure there are no reasonable alternatives to A/C, and I really can’t spring $1k+ for cold air, but it’d be a huge quality of life upgrade.

 

The blend door is known to snap.

The evap coil is known to get dirt but is cleanable.

If the A/C button's LED is flashing, it's often a loose ground next to the compressor, which sometimes happens after a timing belt change, wrong length screw gets installed.

Really, you could do yourself a world of favor if you can find someone with A/C pressure gauges, and you can barter with them to measure the high and low side so we know if your system is properly pressurized or not. If it's not, you really should seek out an A/C specialist. Don't use generalist shop.

 

It is still pressurized. Just had a mechanic check it for free! Didn’t seem eager to do the job themselves but offered and happy to help otherwise.

he said it was properly pressurized too. No shifting of pressure.

 

Is the pressure supposed to shift from high to low? I thought the high side was supposed to be higher than low by at least 50%?

Anyway, I would urge you to check the blend door. Check this: https://www.tundras.com/threads/cold-air-behind-glove-box-solved.123112/#post-3155626

Also, check the evap coil isn't clogged. These videos may help.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h0-iJVYuhPE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wJ0Q2oxNDU0​

 

This thread covers the inspection and lubrication of the mechanisms and cables.
Vent Control Binding - Solved


Pressures are irrelevant without knowing the ambient temperature.

 

watched the one with the 2004 Sequoia. Wow that was nasty. That is definitely on my to do list although every time I check something like that on my truck it's never as bad as what's in the videos

I guess I need to search on what to do for my air filter that supposedly doesn't exist on the 06 tundras I had to get in there to replace my ECU and there was the thinnest piece of foam that appeared to be permanently installed. it was dirty, but nothing comparable to what was in that video

 

Yeah that video was nuts. I can show pics of mine from the “what’s you do today” thread. It was pretty pristine in comparison.

 

i'm going to first check my cabin temperature I know mine isn't close to 50 like he ended up with after he cleaned it

I just watched a video where people are using 3-D printers to make an air filter that goes behind the blower motor for these trucks

 

You can also turn on the AC and see if the compressor engages. If it does see if the cold side gets cold and the hot side gets hot. Cold side is tropically after the orfice tube/ evap valve.

That can give you an idea of the compressor side of things is working. From there you’re probably gonna need some AC gauges. I have had good luck with cheap ones on Amazon and harbor freight. The real game changer is a vacuum pump, but I have fixed several ac systems before without one.

 

I wouldn't recommend this to people who aren't handy with a wrench.

my dad and I made a lot of $$$ cause people, who ARE handy with a wrench, absolutely ruined their a/c system cause they thought a few gauges, a can of "freon", and or a can of a/c stop leak from the zone would fix their issue.

OP do yourself a favor and find someone who has a shop like my dad's.

A automotive A/C specialist.

Our shop had vehicles from other shops since we had the proper equipment to PROPERLY service a/c systems along with our own customers.

 

Everyone has the capacity to learn new skills and advance themselves. OP seems like someone who is interested enough to learn. Got to start somewhere.

 

I mean, yea, but probably best to learn under the guidance of a professional. You know, where you're not gambling with $2k in repairs

 

I'm on the fence on this one. I've definitely tinkered in the past with A/C systems in cars, and at least diagnosed or repaired my A/C system.

I learned the basics of how the system works, how to check if the A/C clutch is engaging, how to bypass pressure switches/jumper relays to diagnose if it's an issue of low refrigerant and misc other stuff. I'm not the kind of d-bag that would just release refrigerant in the open air, I know if the system is low, you need to have the system evacuated properly, have lines vacuumed and leakdown tested, replace seals, TXV etc.

Even though I know all that stuff, I would only ever do it to diagnose. I've learned the hard ware a couple of times, A/C is one of two things on a vehicle where a specialist is mandatory, even seasoned mechanics often don't have the equipment/proper tools/know-how, and you should NEVER go to a chain store or generalist mechanic, it's not worth risking. Like, if you're having ankle problems, why would you see a Cardiologist, or even a General Practicioner? Always go to a decently rated Auto Air/Heat shop for this shit. Same with driveline stuff, always go to a driveshaft shop.

 

Is the clutch engaging and if not have you traced the electrical from the fuse to the relay to the compressor clutch? A system with a failed clutch can show equal pressures on high and low side. Gauges can be rented "for free" at LAPS. Also have vacuum etc.

I thought this guy gives a good quick description on how an HVAC system works including what the high/low readings mean, and this guy gives a very in depth overview of more components like diagnosing electrical and compressor clutch issues.

Have swapped a compressor with bad clutch before after having system evacuated and later recharged at a shop for just a little $, and also diagnosed bad clutch to replace while keeping compressor and hence no need to evacuate system.

 

Heard. I really appreciate everyone’s resources and advice, but this is probably the most realistic. It seems to have stumped the two experienced mechanics that have attempted to diagnose the issue, and this is good insight to just inquire with a specialist. Considering that 90% of the job is labor, I don’t want the mechanic to be fumbling the issue.

 

Yup, if there's anything I've learned over my years:

• Never go to a chain store for anything, not even an oil change.
• Always use a mechanic shop well-versed in your brand, not some "does all brands" place.
• Two times to never use a "generalist" shop: A/C and anything driveline related. Always use an auto heat/air specialist for A/C issues, and always go to a driveshaft/driveline shop for anything potentially linked to driveshaft/driveline.