Brushes for 130amp alternator

I am in the middle of replacing timing belt/water pump and doing few things while I have it apart.

One of those is alternator brushes. Ordered new OEM ones (p/n 27370-75060) only to find out that part number is for standard 80amp alternator and I have towing package and 130 amp (27060-0F040), which uses different brushes

Here they are side by side







Now that I checked EPC again


It seems that I need 27370-50370, but I can't find it in stock anywhere, OEM or not. There are some on eBay and pics from listing look correct, but ideally I want to get OEM brushes. What do people use for 130amp alternator? Is there a different part number that EPC is not showing me?

 

I am also playing with the idea of unsoldering brushes from the the new holder and transferring them into the old housing

 

And the other issue with the alternator is that the "extra" stud (not present before 2003) was broken by PO, marked in the pic with tape



Got a new one



and tried drilling the broken part out, without much success. Had to stop before I mess up the oil pump seal. I don't see any leak from oil pump cover around broken stud, so thinking about leaving it as is for now

 

I went through the same issue with brushes 5 years ago when the timing belt was done, could not locate them for the 130 amp alternator and ultimately left it alone. She's still going

 

I wonder how different the 150A from the Sequoia are from the 130?

@sirrus Denso rebuilds these for Toyota’s reman product at their Denso warehouse in California. Everything rebuilt here in the USA. You may want to give them a call and see if they can source something, or at least give a suggestion? I’m highly skeptical Denso makes these in-house, surely they source from a trusted vendor?

 

I was thinking the same, but didn't get to check the p/n for sequoia alternator yet. Would make sense for Denso to use same brush holder in more than 1 alternator

Good pointer on calling Denso, haven't thought about it. Will check with them!

So I'm not the only one Old brushes have some life left in them and I was careful enough not to destroy the old part first


Since "wrong" brush holder is not really returnable by now and I'm curious, I'll take it apart to see if brushes can be moved to a correct housing. And there is always a backup option eBay options like this one

 

@shifty` any opinion on the broken stud, is it worth trying to drill this out with a long drill bit? If only there wasn't a 3-4 inch "well", I could use a regular LH drill bit and an extractor...

My biggest concern is if I mess this up, I'll need to reseal the oil pump cover and that is either pulling the engine (or the front diff at least)

 

Think about this logically.

• You have a replacement part.
• You have the broken original.
• You can easily measure the two, so you know exactly how much is stuck in there.
• Take that length measurement, subtract 1/8" off, and use this tape strength to that amount, and there's no major risk of bottoming out.

There's this old trick, and maybe you've seen it, which helps you control your drill depth. You basically tape the "max depth" you want to drill, drill to that depth, then open it up. If you want to do yourself a favor, consider using reverse-fluted drill bits as you drill it out, and maybe it'll come out on its own as you step up your sizes. But on the tape thing, you essentially use the tape as your depth gauge. Just make sure the amount of drill shank exposed DOES NOT exceed the length of the broken-off-piece, which again, you'll be subtracting from the length.

​

 

Yes, I'm familiar with tape trick or collars that you can put on the drill bit.

PITA is that I have to use one of those "aviation" drill bits that are 6 inch long on a right angle drill to get to the broken part. I would LOVE to be able to use a left handed (reverse fluted) bit - and I have a nice set of them - but no one makes/sells them in extra long size, unfortunately.

My game plan would be to drill it with 1/8 bit, and then step up to 3/16 (1/4 one would be too close to threads on the block). And because it is so damn deep in there, no extractor would work, so I'm thinking of hammering a long Torx wrench into the drilled hole and try to spin it out. Hopefully that factory orange sealant is not too strong

Thanks for support!

 

As for the brushes - it turned out that it's very easy to transfer them from one holder to another.

Only thing than holds them in place is a bit of solder at the bottom - so I desoldered brushes from both and then soldered new ones into my old holder. 5 minutes and now I have new brushes!

 

Nice, that’s good to know. I’ve got the towing package + 130 amp alternator as well and was planning to look at alternator brush replacement when doing the timing belt.

At what mileage did you replace the brushes?

 

Odometer sits at 211k, no idea if they were replaced before (I want to say brushes are original).

Old brushes had some life left in them for sure, but I had an itch to do it while I have it all out