Brake bleeding sequence

I just purchased new Powerstop 13WL calipers and plan to install them along with new rotors and pads. I also have new drums and shoes. I couldn't find anything in the FSM that states a bleeding sequence. The MC is near the LF, so I would start at the RR, LR, RF and LF last as a guess. Furthest to closest to the MC is from memory. Seem correct?

Also, if I don't need to bleed the rears, can I just bleed the fronts and be okay or should I bleed all 4 brakes on these trucks?

 

If your truck has the LSPV (load sensing prop valve) in rear, bleed that first. Then passenger rear. Then driver rear. Then passenger front. Then driver front.

 

What are the WS calipers? WL equivalents?

 

Always LSPV first, IMHO. Then start with farthest from MC to nearest MC.

But that said, if you didn't get OEM drums and shoes, and you intend to use an aftermarket replacement spring kit, make sure all the springs match. And expect the drums are going to be out-of-round if you didn't buy OEM. If you have vibrations during braking or driving after, that's your main culprit.

Granted, aftermarket (non-Toyota/non-Advics) rotors are sometimes also warped right out of the box too. We've seen it. It's happened here.

 

Typo. Meant WL.

 

I went OEM on everything directly from Toyota except for the calipers from Summit. I’ll have to confirm tomorrow morning if I have the LSPV. Is that an option on some trucks or do they all have it? If I do have it, and I don’t need to bleed the backs, would I still bleed the LSPV before leading the fronts?

 

Thanks. That confirms my thoughts too then.

 

The only trucks I've seen that don't have the LSPV is double cabs that came with VSC traction control (they have an "Auto LSD" button on the far left of the clock display in the dash, next to the 4HI button).

Given you have an AC, and it's a 2001, I'm going to assume you have LSPV, unless someone deleted it. Which is highly unlikely.

Remember to properly bed your brakes after buttoning it all up. I'd recommend doing the rears first, because you won't crack any lines open, then go test/break them in, then come back and do the fronts. This way, if anything is squirrely, you'll know EXACTLY which one caused the problem. If the rears work fine after update, but something is wrong after the front brakes, you know it's the calipers/rotors or the bleeding job that caused it. Y'know?

 

Pressure bleeding is the way to go. LSPV first, and make sure the rod is actuated to fully open to the rears. Then bleed all 4, with a good flush of the entire system while you’re at it (brake fluid is cheap). And definitely adjust the parking brake cables and the rear shoes tight and the crank levers on the rear drums - you want to take out as much slop travel as possible, which will reduce peddle travel and improve feel. If you’re replacing the front calipers, pads AND discs, you could have done the “big brake” upgrade for not much more.

 

Good advice. So I purchased 2 wheel cylinders from Toyota just in case there's leaks on the existing cylinders. I'll return them if the ones on there now look solid. So if I have to break the rears, would the same logic be followed? Still do the rears first and fully bleed the rear, drive it around for awhile and bed them in, then do the fronts including bleeding the fronts another weekend?

 

I usually use the Mighty Vac to pump bleed and have had good luck. The reason I didn't do that big brake setup is because there is no way to machine the calipers at home to fit so I skipped it and just went with the regular upgrade (13WL).

 

I mean, I would. Only because so many people tend to have issues with the rears specifically, that I’d want to rule out any issues after one before proceeding to the other.

 

This is also what I use. Pressure bleed and reverse bleed are superior, but vacuum bleeding is generally just as fast and can be as effective. Most people don’t know how to or don’t reverse bleed. Me included in the latter.