Blown Head Gasket 2015 Tundra

Hello All,

Our Tundra is currently at the dealer getting the head gasket replaced. We are planning on replacing the water pump, starter, radiator hoses, thermostat, timing chain, and tensioners while they have it torn apart.

My question is, do you think that is a good idea? Do you think anything else should be replaced? Should we just replace it with a remanufactured engine? The engine has 180,000 miles on it. Some people I know who know cars say replace the short block while you are in there. What do you think? I am not a mechanic. I have learned a lot on this forum and others since this head gasket issue came up, more then I ever wanted to know tbh, but needs be. It has been well maintained by the dealer its whole life.

below is the history of how we got here.

But first, the truck itself:
2015 Tundra, 5.7l V8, Platinum trim, engine model 3UR-FBE, 180,000 miles. Dealer maintained with fluids replaced and other recommended service done on schedule or early. only mods are offrode tires, leveling, rims, grill with lights, spray in bed liner, roll bed cover. Single family car single owner until 2021, then bought by brother in law. California car, no rust. Miles were put on driving from California to Texas a couple of times a year. Supposedly not towing.

We bought the truck about 6 months ago after looking for several months. It ran great for 5 months. We towed a 6.5k boat from lake Mohave, AZ to Orange County, CA with any problems about 3 months ago without any problems. Then, a month ago, the check engine light came on, still drive totally fine, so we took it to the dealer immediately. They said it had code p0305, a cylinder 5 code. They said all the spark plugs looked good, but the ignition coil for cylinder 5 was a little loose. They moved the spark plugs and ignition coils around and said to come back if it happened again.

it ran fine for 2 weeks, no problems, no check engine light. Then, the check engine light came on and when we went over 40mph, the whole truck shook (was told this is limp mode) but ran fine under 40mph. We were close to the dealer so just drove it straight there going under 35mph, maybe 2 miles. It never overheated.

The dealer put a bore scope into cylinder 5 and found coolant in the cylinder. They said there was no oil in the coolant and no coolant in the oil.

I have spent the last 2 weeks taking to different repair shops getting recommendations and quotes and educating myself as best I can here and on YouTube.

we finally decided to go with a different dealer (they had the best price amazingly) and had the truck towed there. They did a compression test and below are the readings. Thanks for reading all of this and any advice you have is greatly appreciated. This is a big bummer, that we were hoping to avoid getting such a good truck even with high miles. Any ideas on how this happened?

Also, the engine hasn’t been opened yet, so still time to do something else. We really don’t want a used engine, but maybe a reman is the way to go? Would like to avoid that if possible too. We are hoping to get 100’s of thousands of miles out of this truck.

Actually, I can’t get the compression test readings yet, but I will post them asap.

 

Here are the compression test readings.


Dry Compression Readings (cylinders: 1, 3, 5, 7, 2, 4, 6, 8):

190, 195, 225, 205, 190, 185, 195, 190

Wet Compression Readings (cylinders: 1, 3, 5, 7, 2, 4, 6, 8):

210, 210, 235, 215, 205, 195, 205, 200

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Specifications:

Standard Pressure: 189 PSI.

Minimum Pressure: 145 PSI.

Max difference between each cylinder: 15 PSI of less.

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Note:

Engine Bank 1 (driver's side) order: 1, 3, 5, 7 *5 has coolant inside so compression was always higher.

Engine Bank 2 (passenger's side) order: 2, 4, 6, 8

 

Thanks. It seems to be rare for these trucks but obviously it does happen. Sorry you got unlucky too. We can’t afford to buy a used truck and fix this one, so we are going for making this one run. Just trying to make the right decision on how.

 

Exactly. Costs are pretty similar. The only replacement motors are used motors, which seem like a bad idea, or remans, which Jaspers doesn’t do for some reason and no one I know knows of any other good remanufacurers.

 

This. God I am so tired of researching but it is such an expensive, big, repair I am second guessing and have no real conviction about any of the options.

 

Why don't you just replace the head gaskets? Do the cam towers will be sealed when the heads are done. Toyota timing chains rarely need replacing. The chain has paint timing marks on it and when the paint marks are not visible it's time to replace. At 180k your marks would still be there. I would change the starter because it's not that common they fail. I would do the water pump because it's just the cost of the part. If motor replacement was a must I would rather buy a used, unopened Toyota motor that came with a warranty then buy a rebuilt motor from an aftermarket source. Most rebuild companies do horrible work.

 

That’s what I’ve read about the timing chains too. That you don’t need to replace them unless there is an issue with them (the paint missing), they last forever. The dealer said the timing chain should be done now, which was different then what I found and you are saying so I will ask to see pics of the timing chain and ask about the paint marks.

I am not following what you are saying about the Cam towers? I don’t actually know that much about engines. Just what I’ve researched. Can you dumb it down for me?

for the starter, you are saying yes replace it, is that right? The water pump, yes, replace.

One of the radiator hoses is weeping so it would be good to replace them all now while the rest of the work is being done.

anything else you would recommend while they are in there? Or to leave alone?

 

I can’t find your thread rebuild, can you direct me to it or post a link? Would love to see it.

 

The dealer sounds like they are trying to maximize their profits. The cam towers are a common problem on these motors were they can develop a leak on the mating surface that on the carrier that holds the camshafts. They have to reseal that area when the heads come off. Look at fhe beginning of the forum, there is a sticky thread on it.

Starter should not need replacing unless you were having issue with it. It there is a problem then only use a Toyota remanufactured part and not an aftermarket. Find out why the hose is leaking. If it's leaking at the fitting then a good clean up may solve it.

If the motor has not issues previously I would replace the head gaskets with new intake manifold gaskets. Change out the water pump but be sure that only Toyota parts are used. Draw away from a reman from any engine supplier other than Toyota.

Forgot to mention, your timing chain will be fine if the paint marks are there.

 

Sound advice, sometime I can get tunnel vision and just think "engine".

 

The truck is in great condition other then this, but we are leaning towards (basically committed, but could still back out) to doing the head gaskets and some other things that make sense while in there. Unless I learn something definitive and an obvious better decision here.

I’m mostly just trying to decide what additional things to do while it is opened up. I’d like it to last for many years and 500,000 miles if we can get it. And, what NOT to do, or at least question the dealer about if they recommend it. Like, not doing the timing chain, if it is all good and still has the paint on it.

 

thank you! I will read that sticky! If I have any questions after reading it, I might come back and ask them if you will oblige me. I really don’t want to get ripped off but want to get what I need.

 

okay, I read the sticky… so I should ask the dealer to “check and see if the the cam shaft tower is leaking where it is seated on the carrier, and if (since) they take it off, to make sure the seal it well”? I want to sound like I somewhat know what I’m talking about when I ask.

 

The cam tower have to come off to remove the heads so they will have to reseal them. When they do leak you can smell it because engine oil will slowly leak on the exhaust manifold and burn off. They will reseal with a substance called FIPG. It's a kind of super silicone.

 

got it. Thank you! Sounds like they will just do it and I don’t need to say anything, but I will ask them to tell me if they are/were leaking since they haven’t opened it up yet.

 

Correct and it's something you don't pay more to have done. It has to happen to remove the heads and it's included in the labour.

 

finally, something needed and included that I don’t have to pay for. I’ll call that a win.!

 

Also when the water pump is changed you should only pay for the part.

 

I know this is an old thread, but I'm curious if anyone else has had this issue and @MoleculeTeeny do you know why it blew a head gasket? I have the same engine and this video about potential warping of the block has me concerned https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dfGTI0sWozc

 

We discussed this video here couple of months ago, his coolant theory has nothing to do with reality.

 

Agreed. I did coolant changes on three Toyota v6s and posted ph results (along with time and mileage) in one of the discussion threads on this. (My Tundra doesn’t have enough time/mileage yet). I couldn’t substantiate a ph shift based on what I saw.

 

If you can afford it, get the heads rebuilt since they are off. I would also replace the timing components and water pump, since they are already in there.

 

Are the newer heads not as good as old?
Unless Toyota has really gone downhill I wouldn't let most head repair shops touch them except to resurface.
Definitely check the one that had leakage, but if doesn't set for ages it shouldn't rust them up.
Many winters ago I worked as cylinder head tech/rebuilder. Unless they had over wrapped the engine I never had to replace, valves, guides or seats on any Toyota heads people brought in.
Resurface them for sure, if they are out of specs.

But, that's just me from knowing how dirty some shops can be, and knowing if they replace any guides, or valves they won't last near as long as the original.

 

He talks about the risks associated with resurfacing - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dfGTI0sWozc&t=858s

 

He's right.
I like him he knows his business.
A head should be checked with straight edge, and minimal amount used.
We used to have people come in on older vehicles wanting us to surface heads to the maximum for the extra compression. LOL