Audio upgrade thoughts/review

Hey all,

Just wanted to join and add some info that may help some people thinking about upgrading the stereo, which is the worst I've ever heard in a car lol.

Little background, in my younger days I was huge into car audio, specifically custom subwoofer enclosures/setups for competition. I would also self install head units and car speakers, but hated the prying of plastic and spicing/running of wires. Now though I just wanted a simple install as I'm busy with work and other things these days.

The first thing I did was install Focal Integration 'components' in the front door/dash. I did this because I didn't want to mess with adding an amp and crossover. The Focal tweeters are SO MUCH BETTER. Even off the stock HU they sound great. The mids, eh. hardly any bass/mid bass but still an improvement. The tweeters were overly bright and I had to adjust with the factory EQ

I then added some Polk db 6.5's to the back doors to see if that helped bass at all since they are more bass friendly than the focals. Marginal improvement


Wasn't satisfied, had to turn up the HU to 45+ to sound remotely powerful.

I looked at piecing together a couple of systems, and landed on this:

• JL Audio JD400/4
  
  
• Alpine S-A60M
• 2 JL Audio 10W1v3-2

After wiring kits and a custom box I was looking at 1200 bucks or so without harnesses, and really didn't want to run new speaker wires or a LOC.

I found Taco Tunes and was a bit skeptical of their amps, but decided to go with the 4 channel and sub mono amp, along with 2 ID 10's in a ported box. Also went with their amp rack and wiring kit, came out to 1150.

Figuring it was the same price and I could bypass running new speaker wires, I went with Taco Tunes.

The install is super easy compared to anything else I've done. You still need to know how things are supposed to be setup/hooked up, or be able to rely on youtube. If you've never installed equipment before, you're still gonna have some annoying struggles, but if you've installed things before it's really easy.

The amp rack I probably could have fashioned and saved some money, but it fits so nicely and stealthily I'm happy with it. The plug and play was super easy, which I have found many times is not the case with something labeled 'plug and play'.

With the 4 channel amp, I am getting great sound at around 20 on my head unit now, and my ears can't take it above 50 for long and that's saying something for me. The overall sound is a lot better, even running the tweeters of the factory HU still. If I were to do it again, I would buy proper components and mount the tweeters on the door with the mid, but that's a future project perhaps. The tweeters are still very bright

The subs are what I would call supremely adequate. They have a good response curve for a non tuned/specialized box, and get loud enough to be uncomfortable. They are not going to blow the doors out if that's what you are looking for, but keep in mind I'm used to 6-12 cubic foot boxes with multiple 15 or 18" subs off 2000-8000 watts.


My overall impression is pretty positive. If you are looking for something you can get done on a Saturday without major headaches, this is it. You can probably piece together something a little cheaper or better, but it's gonna take a while and you're gonna run into some complications I imagine.

Unless you are someone who really likes picking your own equipment, enjoys the install, and enjoys finding a deal, I would highly recommend going with this setup for a incredible system compared to any other car you will likely ride in.

I know many will comment that the factory HU signal is garbage, but I don't find that to be the case. Sound is clean, though the amp powering the dash tweeters could be a little smoother probably. I imagine replacing the HU would improve the sound marginally, but mostly because of the placebo effect.


Also, big thanks to everyone who participates on this forum, i referenced it for hours getting my truck setup the way I wanted. First time truck owner!

 

Welcome and thanks for the info. Like you, I was into car audio & big bass head when I was younger and did installs myself. But now older and with kid, I just want nice simple clean sound. What year Tundra did you put this in? Any pics?

 

I firmly believe step one should be to correct the shitty stock signal. The OE headunit both attenuates power at certain levels and is impossible to get an actual flat output out of. There's no way the "3 band EQ" that it has will address this issue. Currently I'm building my system, so far I've installed both aluminum/butyl sheeting and CCF on the doors and back wall. I've also changed the HU. Replacing it made a huge difference. I've owned a 3rd gen Taco, 5th gen 4Runner and now the Tundra. The HU in conjunction with the stock amp has produced a clean signal that matches the power output of most 50W amps I've heard. Its considerably better than all the other Toyotas Ive driven after replacing headunits. Entirely due to the fact the Tundra already has a small amp in line. After sealing the door openings it produces enough bass SPL to be comparable to the JBL system with its tiny sub. All on stock speakers. Having heard the JBL and base stereos I actually feel a HU replacement on the base system sounds better than the JBL in its stock format.

Replacing the speakers without a more powerful amp will usually result in a loss of volume and dynamics, the large magnets, stiffer suspension, etc all really need more power to get any quality out of it. I already have my speakers ready to go, Morel Virtus 602s for the front and Dayton 6.5s for the rear. I dont have my DSP amp in yet though and just on a whim I put one of the Daytons in on one side in the rear. The stocks handily out performed it in bass production, theyre just simply lighter and easier to drive. Once I've got the amp in it would be a whole different story, but without going that route the stock speakers in the Tundra are actually quite decent for SPL purposes, once you have a quality signal going to them.

As far as the belief the stock unit isnt garbage, I've run DSPs with the stock Toyota HUs. There are very clear and traceable cuts being made, once the volume is >50% the lower frequencies begin to plateau in SPL measured. The signal to the front and rear needs to be summed usually due to it not being the same and resulting in peaks and valleys in seen on the RTA. Without actually using tuning equipment that statement is just a feeling, there are traceable issues that can be improved. Options are cheap with a HU or better but more $$ with DSP and tuning.

 

Actually the factory JBL head unit is not bad to work with and will provide a nice RTA flat curve when using a good processor.

 

Yes, as it should. Main point there is in line with mine, sound processing is key to a quality signal and sound. As I said, either cheap with a HU or a bit more freedom and perhaps cost with a DSP. In its stock form the OE HU is one of the biggest limiting factors for quality. Especially when you begin to price out the cost of each component. HU totals can range from 350+ to fully install one. Decent front channels would really need additional power and then you could easily be looking at close to the same price but likely more, all while still having your hands tied in terms of getting their full potential with a sub par input.

 

Thanks for this info! I just added a sub and amp, and soon a Kenwood head unit. I wasnt sure if I wanted to replace the stock amp under the seat and speakers, now as I read this depending on how it all sounds I just might keep the stock speakers in there for a bit.

 

I feel like most people will be happy with it just being louder, the HU replacement will surely accomplish that. Sound quality is improved as well though.