Audio upgrade recommendations/input?

What’s up peeps, new here and need a input on what I’m working with; 2020 tundra SR5 TRD sport
I’ve recently upgraded my audio
& trying to get ur dialed in. I’m not trying to wake the neighborhood coming home just want quality sound w/ some strong bass not too over powering. I’ve replaced L & R dash tweeters w/ Rockford Fosgate,
Front door speakers w/ RF KS series, and rear door speakers w/ powerbass OE. I’ve installed 2 RF

$125 R2SD4 10 R2 Ultra Shallow 10" 4 Ohm DVC Subwoofer

R2SD4 10” subs & Black diamond DIA-K1 monoblock amp wiring subs at 4ohms. Also using factory HU
I’m trying to get everything dialed in, should I have gone w/ a different amp to push the door speakers? Or is there another amp I could/should replace w/ the factory amp using now to push my door speakers? Where would I see the best outcome on dialing in sound w/ gain, bass, sub on amp and sound settings on HU w/ treb,mid,bass? I understand audio output with lossless HD etc., I also understand the only way to achieve lossless or hd is wired directly to phone, that being said im getting better quality using Bluetooth rn and a little more distortion when wired (which I’ll deal w/ that later, more just trying to get speakers amp dialed in now). Any thoughts, advice or recommendations would be greatly appreciated!! Thx in advance✌️

 

Lets talk about equipment first.



Rockford Fosgate RS2D4 10 inch rated at 200 watts RMS each.
Nothing wrong with the subs. If you want a little extra kick to your music they will be just fine.
But people expect a lot of shallow mount subs. Shallow mount subs will never produce the bass that standard subs will. Space makes Bass and we have verry little space to work with in a crewmax.

Black Diamond amps. They are low cost option but they seem to perform. Williston audo labs, they do a lot of videos on youtube on testing amps. The black diamod produce close to rated power.
At 1 ohm it is rated at 600W at 1 ohm. So the amp puts out enough power for the subs.


Tweeters what model of rockford fosgate did you go with? If you went with the prime r1t-s that tweeter retails for $39.99.
I do not know a lot about this tweeter but the Sensitivity DB is 72.5 1W/1M. This is not a loud tweeter so do not expect it to be loud.
Most tweeters that are going to play loud and have a clear sound are going to be around 90DB.
A list of tweeters that get good reviews on car stereo forums at a lower cost range.
Massive Audio CT2 $79.99 for the pair,
SB acoustics SB29RDNC $143 for the pair
SEAs Prestige 27tffnc $90 for the pair.
I use a pair of Stereo Integrity M25MKII they are $199 for a pair. They are really good for $199.
Not saying I would change tweeters from the foagate but just be aware of what you are working with.


On the front door speaker what actual model number speakers did you use?
On the rear door speakers what model number Powerbass OE did you use?
What line out converter or method did you tap into to get signal to the Black Diamond Amp?


If you just want it loud with a little more clarity, then add a 2nd amplifier to run the Door speakers and dash tweeters and call it good.





If the goal is loud and have sound quality. This is a different ball game.
I use Tidal for my music streaming.
If you want good sound quality, be ready to spend a little money.
The tundra sucks in so many ways for sound quality.
The center console creates a lot of speaker cancelation.
The speakers are not in the best locations.
The rear door speakers pull the sound stage from the front of the truck.
The factory headunit, is garbage for sound quality. For the ones saying their truck sounds good keeping the factory headunit, ,,, ok keep telling yourself that,
But they have never sat in my truck.

To get good sound you need to be able to have things at your control.
1 control time alignment.
2 You need to be able to level match each speaker in the car.
3 You need to be able to eq each speaker independently from each other. The right side will play different from the left side. There are different reflections and issues going on in a car.
4 You need more bands of EQ control than most factory headunit will have. Most DSP's have 31 bands of eq per channel output.

There are a ton of you tube videos on all of this.

A $2000 set of door speakers with not being able to control them will sound worse that a set of $300 speakers that you can tune correctly.

Assuming that someone does all the work on their own.
You can design a good sounding system for $2000. This is even replacing the headunit.
If you want something with better sound quality closer to $3000
I have just a little over $5000 in equipment and I did a lot of research on getting the best options at the best value in cost.

 

So the tweets:
Kicker 47KSC2704
KS Series 2-3/4"

Front door:
KS Series 6" × 9" 2-Way
47KSC69304

rear door:
PowerBass OE-675
6-3/4"

10” R2 prime 200w

AXLOCM-150

I tapped into input side of factory amp under pass seat. I feel like I got it more dialed in today, bass is clean not too overwhelming and have a little play w/ the bass knob to crank it up as needed. Am I missing out any noticeable difference using factory amp rather than changing it out? I did get CarPlay sounding much better after adjusting amp, thx for input

 

1. What is the goal of the stereo to you
Loud?
Clear?
Or both


2. What budget $$$ are you working with if you want to upgrade more?

based on the equipment you have now it is geared to more loud,, nothing wrong with that if that is what you are going for.

 

Clear, clean and quality ideally. I’ve got @$1000 in audio rn, no budget planned out I’m open to anything, just wouldn’t wanna spend a lot if it’s not gonna be a noticeable difference.
I think more than anything working w/ what I’ve got, and/or adding another amp to push the door speakers. What about HU? Would I see much improvement by replacing it?

 

this is how I wired subs also. Which was new to me, and to my understanding I can change the wiring which would drop the ohms, which would hit harder? (Correct me if I’m wrong) but I think I’m satisfied with the bass bc like I said this gives me room to play w/ bass knob and I think it sounds solid. I did add sound deadening to all doors and behind subs as well. the last time I was messing w/ car audio was 20 yrs ago, trying to shove 2 12’s in hatchback of mitsu eclipse, so yeah things have changed a lil since then

 

I assume we are working with the NON JBL Stereo.

Before you do anything watch some youtube videos.
Five Star Car Stereo has some good videos
T A C O tunes has several good videos
Provo Beast Audio has some
There are many videos on upgrading the tundra stereo.


To get good sound you have to have a clear signal to the amps.
it will cost around $500 to replace the headunit.

If you want name brand, sony, kenwood, jvc, alpine, pioneer the larger screen setup you will over $1000

There are several android head units that have some nice features that are around $500 or less with the larger screen.
Joying , Teyes are a couple brands to look at.


I feel replacing the head unit is key to getting good sound.

Some people feel they must keep the factory head unit.
The problem with many factory head units is that they have cut the bass at high volumes. This is the reason you do not hear a lot of bass at high volume. Manufactures do this to keep people from blowing up the cheap factory speakers.



IF you want to keep the factory head unit and add additional amplifiers you need a way to get signal to all input channels on the amplifiers.
I would get one with at least 6 channels of output, Front , Rear, Sub.
Look at the

$172 Audiocontrol LC7I Audio Control 6 Channel Line Output Converter LC7i

Audiocontrol LC7I pro $279
Or the T A C O Tunes NTune6 $189
or the NVX XLOC66X $99.99

Any of these will work, just do some research on what features you want out of them.


Then get a 4 channel amp. Hook up channels 1 and 2 to the door and dash speakers, channels 3,4 to the rear doors.

 

If I was going to keep the factory head unit.

I would buy the JL Audio FIX 86

 

I would love to do a factory sound replacment but the 1k for a pioneer/kenwood with wireless carplay seems a little out of the budget.
I think since I am a non JBL in my SR5 I would then have to swap out that amp under the front passenger seat... more $$$
ALso I lose XM. (not a HUGE deal as I could stream or play off USB drive on new head unit)

When is the budget carplay headunits from the main manfactures going to show up on the market? :/

 

I’ve been looking @ at a few HU, and from what I’ve seen it’s seem like they go @3-400$ then jumps to $1000+. I’ll end up replacing it in next few months I’m sure, what HU would you recommend? And what dash kit do you think looks the best?

How are the factory dash speakers wired? They’re not coming from factory amp are they? Do they come directly from HU then daisy chained across the dash to each other?

I’ve just about got everything I’ve done and what I’m working w/ currently just about dialed in to where i want, the 2 10’s wired at 4 ohms is solid for me, not overwhelming, just clean, so im happy w/ that.

But after I pay for this bedslide that’s gonna be my next investment a quality HU

 

Non jbl in a tundra upgrade
You can do a budget system for around $1200 if you don’t need a large floating screen,

headunit jvc 780bt Has CarPlay and android auto also has a lot of tuning features.
$329 on crutchfield
Crux wiring harness and metro dash kit
$99 on crutchfield

so you can replace the head-unit for less than $450

you can also get some really nice android headunits for less than $500

Amplifier 5 channel
Ct sounds 800.5d. $199

subwoofer blaupunkt gbw801 8 inch sub $40 Amazon.
Build the box yourself. .60 cf 38hz tune. $50 in materials

speakers Sony xs162es component set $299 on crutchfield probably one of the best value sets at this price range

Cheap amp wiring kit $35
Rca cables $40
Other minor things needed on the install $100

The setup above will sound way better than factory.

 

No I’ve already installed
2 10”s Rockford Fosgate r2 prime

front door
Kicker kS
6x9’s

rear door
PowerbassOE675

Dash
Kicker 47KSC2704
KS Series 2-3/4"

Black diamond
DIA-kK1

i’m just still using factory, head and factory amp, pushing the door speakers

 

Roc

headunits are a preference thing

I went with the jvckwz1000w. $1299 on crutchfield
The kenwood Dmx1057 is basically the same thing.
Sony 9500es. is a good option $1000


The larger screen is what adds cost. The jvc780bt has almost all the same tuning features as the higher cost ones and it only cost $329

if I had to do mine over I probably would have went with Joying on one of their android headunits. Several people on car stereo forums use joying.

 

Are the newer Joying Units Android 12 with better SOC's and adjustments etc?

 

I like the joying feature of digital out to a dsp

the only reason I have not changed to one is I get zero noise with my current setup

the android headunits have a lot of features for the money