Atf to clean a 5.7

Has anyone ever used about a half a quart of atf in there 5.7 and ran it for about 80 to 100 mile to clean out deposits.

 

What deposits will ATF remove that a quality synthetic oil isn't?

 

Interesting question. In 300k, just used 0w20 synthetic, as of now no real issues. Lived in cold af climate and hot af climate
Edit: used to use Mobil1 to 100k, then switched to Costco's Kirklan brand.

 

I have been using semi synthetic on my 2011. I think the chain tensioner is sticking when it's cold. Engine rattles till warmed up.

 

hefty price for them replacements.

 

They don't look hard to replace.

 

Timing is the real issue.

 

ATF is closer to hydraulic fluid than motor oil.

Please don’t. There are specific engine oils designed for cleaning, but they have to be used following directions because they can overwhelm the oil filter putting in bypass mode. At that point, you are circulating unfiltered oil.

You would be better served running a good high-mileage full synthetic oil at moderate intervals.

Jury is still out on Valvoline Restore & Protect as to whether it is revolutionary new technology or marketing hype.

 

Yep, that's some really good oil right there. I've been using O'Reillys synthetic 0w20. Seems to also be very good oil.

 

I would change to a full synthetic, but I have been seeing other threads and videos saying full synthetic will eat away at the sealer on the cam towers.

 

WhiteSR5 that is the answer I was looking for. So yes I won't be doing atf. Thank you for that reply.

 

I would forego using ATF as a cleaner - no real benefit compared to modern oil additives and formulations.

Valvoline makes a new product - Restore and Protect - that is supposed to clean out the engine over the course of 4 oil changes. High Performance Lubricants makes an engine cleaner that works over the course of 1-2k miles that comes in a single quart the that you simply add to your oil (at a specific ratio) and drive until your next oil change. Both are quality products that would be unobtrusive.

I wouldn't trust flushes or quick acting cleaners, personally. It would seem to me that they could potentially cause lubrication issues.

My '13 is also exhibiting timing chain clatter from the tensioner when cold. Runs like a champ when warm. The dealer gave me an FU price to R&R after telling me it was nothing to worry about a year ago. I tried both the Valvoline R&P and HPL cleaners; both improved the condition for a while, but it returns as the oil gets more miles on it. Not saying the cleaner won't work or is useless, but don't get your hopes up on the tensioner, unfortunately.

As for synthetics and leaking seals - that's all hogwash shade tree mechanics tales from the 70's. I've swapped fluids in aging vehicles from full conventional to full synthetic with nary an extra drop. Modern seals are quite tolerant; modern synthetics will only help. IMO, part of the stigma around synthetics causing leaks comes from old leaky motors where crud and gunk built enough of a dam to curb existing leaks; because synthetics typically have a better formulation and additive package - including cleaning addtitives and the simple fact that esters are good cleaners - those cruddied up leaks get cleaned and simply start leaking again. Otherwise, your vehicle should have zero issues running a synthetic and should only thank you in the long run. My opinion based on my experience.

 

Blenton what a great write up. Thank you for the information.

 

Blenton I hit up HPL today on a phone call. Thanks again for the information.

 

We use to add a qt of ATF to diesels, at fill up, back in the day when they had manual injector pumps. Kept them lubricated.
We also use to flush equipment motors running 1/2 n 1/2 used oil and diesel fuel. Run for about 15-30 minutes, drain and fill as normal.

 

I’ve added marvel mystery oil and ran motor 10minutes. Then drain and fill with new filter