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Ask the Toyota mechanic!

Discussion in 'General Tundra Discussion' started by T-Rex266, Aug 15, 2015.

  1. Apr 30, 2022 at 4:50 PM
    #2641
    Wynnded

    Wynnded What MPG...

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    Rockies
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    2011 RCSB S/C'd 5.7L AWD Tundra
    OEM Upgrades: TRD PRO BBS Wheels TRD S/C, Viktor G Tune and +2 psi pulley TRD Front Sway Bar TRD Rear Sway Bar Fox TRD Pro Shocks Limited mirrors (auto darkening/backup camera/power fold/puddle lights) Limited Grill Mod Automatic Climate Controls Mod Automatic Headlamp Mod Sequoia Transfer Case Mod Sequoia Leather Steering Wheel Mod Sequoia Limited Gage Cluster Mod Sequoia LED Headlamp Upgrade Window Tint Fake Manual Transmission Mod 10" BAMufflers Stainless Catback Engine Block Heater Illuminated Ignition Key Ring Mod Deck Rail System w/cleats
    Sorry that you had to go about it the roundabout way. The 35mm socket is for the first generation Tundra CV axle nut.
     
    myt1 likes this.
  2. May 2, 2022 at 10:00 AM
    #2642
    Kimosabe

    Kimosabe Slacker

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    Sun Valley, Idaho
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    Well, I decided to just replace the gaskets again anyways. It's not a huge expense and I might as well to keep things fresh.
     
    Leo's first and WVI like this.
  3. May 4, 2022 at 10:51 AM
    #2643
    briarpatch

    briarpatch New Member

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    SRS airbag light came on...when my daughter sat down in the passenger seat......local mechanic was able to get the code for me.....DTC B1818/54....can you tell me what this means and how involved the repair might be? Local mechanic did not want anything to do with the SRS system
     
  4. May 11, 2022 at 8:28 AM
    #2644
    COTundra23

    COTundra23 New Member

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    I am currently running fox coilovers with approximately 2.5-3” lift up front.

    On the even slightest bumps or bumpy roads, I am feeling a rattle down near my front axles. Cv axle angles look find and everything feels nice and tight.

    after lifting the truck up and doing a visual inspection, the only thing I can think of is the sway bar end links. The angles are that aggressive but I could imagine some binding occurring and causing this popping, loose feeling.

    any ideas?

    F5CD6E2C-E47A-4AE4-8733-4FCFBB1CBF88.jpg 52292F86-650D-4DB3-9026-D9266ED7FF55.jpg
     
  5. May 11, 2022 at 9:54 AM
    #2645
    ThatYotaGuy

    ThatYotaGuy New Member

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    From the second picture, looks like the camber/caster cam bolt has moved. Hard to tell, but there should be a welded on bracket to keep it in a certain location. I can not tell if it is there on yours.
     
  6. May 11, 2022 at 9:59 AM
    #2646
    Moe2o4

    Moe2o4 New Member

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    Corey
    Vehicle:
    2020 Tundra SR5 Extended Cab TRD Offroad Package 8ft. Bed
    Bilsten 6112's with 2.5" Front Lift w/Bilstein 5160 Rear Shocks
    By the looks of it you need yourself a sway bar relocation bracket just like on a Tacoma where it moves the sway bar about a inch or so forward so it doesn't interfere with the strut!
     
    Filthyphil and COTundra23 like this.
  7. May 11, 2022 at 10:29 AM
    #2647
    ThatYotaGuy

    ThatYotaGuy New Member

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    What year and model?
     
  8. May 11, 2022 at 12:07 PM
    #2648
    briarpatch

    briarpatch New Member

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    2013 CrewMax...5.7 if it matters
     
  9. May 11, 2022 at 12:50 PM
    #2649
    ThatYotaGuy

    ThatYotaGuy New Member

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    Short in Front Passenger Side Squib 2nd Step Circuit. Most likely there is no problem just from my experience. Having said that, safety first when checking this system. You would want to disconnect the battery for at least 5 minutes before checking anything. With the battery disconnected, you will want to remove the glove box assembly so you can get to the connectors. There should be 2 connectors on the air bag itself. One orange and one Black. The connector for this code is going to be the black one. There is a clip in the center that you will need to be gentle with. Do not pull it all the way out, just pull it back about 1mm, then disconnect the connector and reconnect the connector, then the battery and see if the code comes back. If not, just a poor connection possibly. If the code does return, I would recommend having it diagnosed by a qualified technician. The SRS system is not one to try an diagnose on your own without proper training.
     
    WBW likes this.
  10. May 11, 2022 at 2:59 PM
    #2650
    briarpatch

    briarpatch New Member

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    thank you....the truck was in for routine maintenance and, oddly enough, to have the battery replaced. It was still working, but it was nine years old and just starting to crank a little slowly....so the battery was disconnected and the mechanic did check those connections on the air bag, as well as the one under the seat. Two people have ridden in the passenger seat since then, and the warning light has not come back on....so...fingers crossed...I'm good to go. In 9 years and 113k miles, this is the first issue I've had
     
    DZ_ and ThatYotaGuy like this.
  11. May 18, 2022 at 8:41 PM
    #2651
    Elroy_unlimited

    Elroy_unlimited New Member

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    Is it normal for a new power steering pump to slightly whine for a while until all of the air is worked out of it from normal driving?
     
  12. May 18, 2022 at 8:54 PM
    #2652
    COTundie

    COTundie Whoa Black Betty

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    Pretty things
    Anytime I've replaced a PS pump (never on a tundra), the whining from air in the system will stop before I put the wheels back on the ground.... Like after 2 turns lock to lock.
     
  13. May 25, 2022 at 2:41 PM
    #2653
    MarcoD

    MarcoD New Member

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    Will mixing transmission fluid damage my transmission? It mistakenly was flushed with type 4 instead of ws and my mechanic did a drain and fill with WS. I know I should get multiple drain and fills to get closer to WS spec.
     
  14. May 25, 2022 at 10:22 PM
    #2654
    S&JsTundra

    S&JsTundra New Member

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    New today, toggled the high beams and the radio display shut down for a couple seconds and then came back on. Tried it a few more times and noticed the the speedometer lights went off and speedometer dropped to zero then back to speed I was traveling. Also did it when I turned the headlights on and off, but NOT when I toggled the turn signals. I know my clock spring in the steering column is bad( no horn) and was just about to pull that. Now wondering if that has any correlation, or if it's just thearm mechanism for the headlights and turn signal that needs replacing? 2013 Crew 5.7
     
  15. May 27, 2022 at 7:36 AM
    #2655
    ThatYotaGuy

    ThatYotaGuy New Member

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    If it was flushed with Toyota Type 4 fluid, there is a possibility of damage or shifting issues. None of the aftermarket fluids have good results. I would highly recommend getting it back to WS.
     
  16. May 27, 2022 at 7:38 AM
    #2656
    ThatYotaGuy

    ThatYotaGuy New Member

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    This has been a pretty common problem. A new combination (headlight/turn signal) switch should take care of it.
     
  17. Jun 11, 2022 at 10:04 AM
    #2657
    mvetrox

    mvetrox 2020 E-Pro BHS

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    Stock
    I hit and bent my driver side tow hook. It was at very low speed but it hit perfectly causing the hook to be at a 45 degree angle. It bent the mount and i have a slight crack on the bolt holding the transmission cooler behind the grille.

    Now my body mount bushings squeak. When I flex the suspension i can feel the mount squishing and squeaking.

    any recommendations?
     
  18. Jun 12, 2022 at 11:35 AM
    #2658
    'fro

    'fro New Member

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    2014 Tundra 1794 - MGM
    None YET
    So, I have a 2014 1794 - 5.7 Gas. Getting a P0308 misfire on cyl 8. Took to local shop and they were able to see coolant getting into the cylinder using a wire cam, so apparently gasket failure. Got a quote on doing the work, but is this a possible DIY job? I've never done any head work before, I've got pretty good mechanical skills, I've completely rebuilt one of my 2 stroke yz250 engines before, bottom to top and do things like checking valve clearances on my 4 stroke, etc. To give an idea of my level of "expertise". Got a feeling I'd be regretting it once I got into the meat of it.... Thanks.
     
  19. Jun 23, 2022 at 2:32 AM
    #2659
    Thomas4x4

    Thomas4x4 New Member

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    Just got my spark plugs and PCV valve changed yesterday, now I have a P0393 (camshaft position sensor code b circuit high bank 2). The technician @ the dealer claimed that it has nothing to do with the work they performed but yet I don’t remember driving there with a CEL on. They’re saying it needs a new camshaft position sensor but the part isn’t in yet. However the truck still starts and runs (w/ slight misfire). Seems to be revving a little higher than normal when I step on the gas. Could this be caused by a mistake when installing new spark plugs?
     
  20. Jun 23, 2022 at 3:12 AM
    #2660
    MarcoD

    MarcoD New Member

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    So far I done 2 drain and fills with WS. I’m doing short intervals like a month apart then I will spread it out and start doing every 15k or so. I will never allow the dealer to flush my tranny again given how incompetent they are. Type 4 caused it to lag/hesitate, engage slow when putting it in gear especially when it’s cold, sluggish response. I’m starting to feel just a slight improvement (although it could just be my imagination) but it still has a long way to go. It does feel more jumpy now when I step on the gas, so who knows.
     
    WVI likes this.
  21. Jun 24, 2022 at 9:10 PM
    #2661
    fordguy1470

    fordguy1470 Member-ish

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    West Columbia, SC
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    Getting there
    Trans over heat in a 22. Less than 3k miles on my truck. Was pulling my camper through the blue ridge mountains. Got the “Transmission Oil temp high, stop in a safe place” message for about 5 seconds. It went away when I slowed down and let the RPMs drop a little. Trans seems to shift fine, no issues to report. Should I do a drain and fill to be on the safe side, or should I be ok with a normal service interval on it?
     
  22. Jun 26, 2022 at 12:58 PM
    #2662
    alb1k

    alb1k Currently googling how to do things.

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    Erik
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    It's good
    Hi and thank you!

    2005 DC 2WD 4.7

    I have new everything suspension up front. Recently, at slower speeds, usually on a turn, I get a clunk. It seems to be from the driver's side - I'm pretty sure about that.
    It's pretty firm feeling - comes through the frame feeling.
    I disconnected the sway bar, which actually may have cleared up some other little noises.
    I used a pry bar test on the ball joints. Driver's side outer control arm/steering link ball was fine. Should be, it's new. But taping/torquing on it gave me a noise up at the steering rack.
    Fast forward to today, I just disconnected my tie rods from the LBJs. Bounced them around and the right is so firm from a play perspective.
    The driver's side, however, makes a clunk if I slam the tie rod up and rear. And, there is visible play, very small. No leaks.
    The driver's side is the gear side, and also has a couple of extra big bolts/set screw things. Big.
    Can the gear part of the steering rack be tightened up with these mysterious big bolts? Am I experiencing normal play? Or, does this sound like a new steering rack or something else?
    I'm in the process of ruling out anything else I can.
     
  23. Jun 26, 2022 at 1:19 PM
    #2663
    alb1k

    alb1k Currently googling how to do things.

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    Erik
    Los Angeles
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    It's good
    Uploading vid for comp of rt. vs driver.
    https://youtu.be/Z-EGM-WPWDQ
     
  24. Jun 27, 2022 at 7:11 PM
    #2664
    Jphill68

    Jphill68 New Member

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    05 DC 4wd

    Rear differential is leaking again after jb weld. Would you recommend cleaning off the old and applying new? Or just put the new over the old?
     
  25. Jun 27, 2022 at 7:47 PM
    #2665
    JMB

    JMB Not new, just a little old.

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    Chesapeake, VA
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    2013 Super White Tundra DC
    5100s all around, 295-70-18 Defenders, 1.25 Spidertrax spacers, BD reverse lights, de-badged, interior LEDs, footwell LEDs, reverse LEDs, ARE cap, front receiver hitch for cooler holder, cooler holder/rod rack, backup camera, Kenwood HU, Westin nerf bars, Husky floor liners, folding rear seats, remote battery posts, plastidip grill chrome, Powder coat bumpers.
    I'm not a Toyota mechanic, but fixing your differential with JB weld is a losing proposition. But since you're asking, just put some more on there. And do it again into perpetuity.
     
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