Anyone running the stage1 blower kit from harrop?

When I had untuned stage 1 put on in June, my installer Alex peitz said it was going to 11.9 on his narrow band WOT

he said the stock tune was very safe, as it cuts power every chance it gets. Pulls timing. IT stays on the stock map.

this jibes with what I saw on my scanguage

I think harrop is not incorrect. As they say it is not ideal

it’s safe enough though

a good tune cleans up A lot of items

however…..13.1 afr WOT is not good.

@snivilous said it best- it should ride around 14.6. Then drop around half pedal. My truck does this. I don’t see 13s very often. It’s either 14.5 or low 12s

either way. Thanks for the info and keep us in the loop

 

I'm not bitchin'...I have a question for the mathematically mature folks.

Why, after doing stage 2, is my dash MPG says I avg 27mpg?

I'm genuinely getting 17.

is the computer thinking I'm using less fuel?

Or is the computer not taking into account the 650cc injectors?

 

Random guess, bigger injector means it's not open as long as the stock injector to flow the same fuel. The tune obviously knows this and compensates. The rest of the truck as far as it's concerned is only pumping half as much fuel, but because of the injector is pumping a "normal" amount.

 

Makes sense to me. The ECU could be making it's calculation based on how long the injector is open. During normal cruising with the fatter injectors, that's going to be a shorter period of time.

 

Can one of you guys reach out to the fast lane and try to take down the TRX? I bet @ViktorG can do it.

https://youtu.be/ChV3VgQf9Nk

This one was pretty sweet to watch too.

https://youtu.be/HtLxdG7iF9k

Damn TRX…..

 

it's tough to beat a 700hp 4wd vehicle. especially if your 4wd vehicle does not have 700hp.

@ViktorG would beat it. by a lot.

 

We just gotta make sure we smoke the new Turd gen TRD Pro.

 

Those TRX’s have launch control, and two more gears.

 

Just curious about the 17MPG… Are you running stock sized wheels and tires or a lift?

 

Should be interesting to see what they can do with this. I’m curious if crazy power can be had from a tune like the ecoboost engines. I’ve read that it probably doesn’t have the same potential since the ecoboost is a high revving short stroke wide bore engine vs the Toyota engine which is a narrow bore, long stroke engine. Didn’t look into that myself though.

 

stock everything. and I'm 90% hwy driving to work & back.

now that winter blend is out....I'm down to 16.5

 

I'll reckon the TQ grows a lot more than HP. because of stroke length.

imagine how complex that tune is....2 turbos, epa crap, 10 speed trans, etc.

I could appreciate 525hp/620tq from the non-hybrid motor.

I have to go by my Mom's house next week (which is very close to D3) & sniff this out.

 

Thanks!

 

We all know it can be bumped. LC using the same motor gets 409hp out of it.

 

agreed. but bumped by how much? If it can be tuned by outsiders...can we see 600FtLbs?

 

I guess we have our answer on that one. https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a...Y2xBASqpq6PM8kzYP4rlfjmJjry77bVCEBZnprBut-h9g

 

Finally got my stage 2 parts in and sent out my first batch of data logs. Can’t wait to get some tune revisions back. Here’s to hoping that I logged them correctly, still a newb at this.

Also, as someone else mentioned they had an issue with them…. my mechanic said the bolts for the pulley were stupidly tight and had loctite on them. He said no way they were tightened to the torque specs of 6-7 ft lbs. he actually had to heat up the bolts using a soldering iron to try and break down the loctite and break them free. If I do another pulley swap in the future he says to get new bolts, just a tip to anyone who swaps pulleys in the future

 

That's awesome on that, Dinesh @ D3 came thru for the software to allow the Maggie to be put on the 2021, we are taking our time to get it done and just took it for a test drive, wow it was simply amazing.



what @snivilous recorded may hold true on 4.4s, I was able to test it for 0-100km/h in 4hi, no brake boost launch, just stationary and punch the throttle and recorded at 6.09s while going sideway a lot (it's 0c where I am), this was done on a closed circuit.

 

Dp you have the Scangauge codes for the AFR?

 

Thanks! I’ll give it a try!

 

I do not post much on forums and Facebook anymore for many reasons - lack of time, people expressing too many opinions without backing them up with facts or experience (this is a general statement, not directed at anyone here or this thread in particular), no desire to argue with people to prove a point etc.
However, I wanted to give my personal view on this topic.

The stock A/F sensors cannot read richer than ~11.9:1 which makes them useless for tuning a supercharged Tundra.
In my tunes I shoot for 10.5-11.0 AFR, since I have seen way too many broken ring lands, cracked pistons etc. on these trucks with superchargers and they need the cooling from the extra fuel.
If the stock A/F sensors read 11.9:1, that could mean it is actually at 11.9:1 (way too lean in my opinion for this platform) or as low as 9.xx:1 (as seen on the stock TRD and other tunes - way too rich and results in loss of power and misfiring).

As far as a tune being safe because the ECU cuts power and pulls timing, that does not really make sense to me.
The ECU will generally only retard timing because it is detecting engine knock, so I cannot see why the fact that it is constantly pulling timing is making it a "safe" tune.
The stock NA timing map will command up to 26 degrees of timing at WOT by redline.
The supercharged engines on 91 octane start knocking above approximately 17 degrees of timing at WOT (depending on many factors of course).
So for the ECU to run a supercharged engine on the NA tune, it constantly has to retard timing in response to knock.
Thankfully, it has a long term strategy of reducing knock correct learn value if it sees sustained knock for long periods of time.
The problem with this is that it affects a broad RPM range, so if the engine only knocks at 4500 RPM for example, KCLV will reduce timing from ~4000 RPM all the way up to redline (not ideal).
A proper tune should not constantly rely on knock retard for everyday operation, it should run off the timing map and make minimal knock retard corrections.
Even the Magnuson supplied tunes for their superchargers are constantly knocking and pulling back timing (I don't have my laptop with me but will post some knock feedback graphs of a Maggi tune vs my tune when I get around to it).

Lastly, while I have a great working relationship with Harrop and use their product on my personal vehicle, I would not want to run a Stage 1 setup without a tune, especially when towing or prolonged WOT operation.
The NA tune enters power enrichment way too late, advances timing way too much and uses VVTi timing maps that do not suit a supercharged application, among other things.
Cheers!

Viktor

 

mic drop.

 

In talking with the folks at Harrop about my issues of being too lean almost across the entire rpm range I was told that the Stock injectors are marginal in a Stage 1 install. The flex fuel pump is big enough but the injectors are very close to the edge. In addition to the Harrop my truck has JBA longtubes and Deeds 3" exhaust. In trying to tune my truck we could maintain 10.8 AFR up to about 4 psi, then it started to get lean and we would end up around 12.6 - no good.

Harrop says I need bigger injectors so I have a set of 650cc on the way. Hopefully this will give us the fuel we need up top.

 

Are the headers and exhaust causing the lean issues? Or just the stock injectors are inadequate for stage 1 boost levels?
Very curious because my Harrop is getting installed on Tuesday.

 

What A/F sensors do you use/recommend?

 

You need a wideband sensor and gauge.

Example:
https://innovatemotorsports.com/products/psb1.php

 

Or even better - monitor on both banks. AFR on left, fuel pressure on right.