Another Tundra with brake shuddering/shaking

Hi everyone. I'm hoping someone can help solve my father-in-law's brake shuddering/shaking issue for his 2000 Tundra Access Cab SR5 4wd with approximate 325,XXX miles. The shuddering is violent and appears to be isolated to the front.

History: I was asked to help change the front wheel bearings which led to discovering a bunch of worn out parts that were also replaced. The following parts were installed:

• Upper control arms that looks to be freedom off road arms,
• Bilstein 5100s front shocks with oem springs (c-clip set at highest setting; wasn't my idea),
• OEM lower ball joints and bolts,
• Timken front wheel bearings, seals, and snap rings, and
• Moog outer tie rods

Test drove the vehicle and it was shuddering violently when braking and vibrating when cruising. Upon further inspection, the following parts were installed to replace bad parts:

• TRQ front lower control arm bushings and
• Energy Suspension rack-n-pinion bushings.

I adjusted the rear brake shoes and e-brake cables. The e-brake works good now; however, the vehicle was still shuddering violently when braking and vibrating when cruising. I then replaced the front rotors with:

• ACDelco Silver front rotors (brakes pads were replaced not too long ago; still looks good)

The car still shudders when braking and the vibration was still there. Upon further inspection, the following parts were installed to replace bad parts:

• Spicer carrier bearing for driveshaft and
• Used driveshaft slip yoke with universal joint (looks good).

The vibration appears to be gone permanently, but the brake shuddering is still there. However, it only happens after the car is driven for a few miles. In the first few miles after starting the truck, there is no brake shuddering and the car drives smooth. If I turn off the truck, wait about 30 seconds, start and drive it, the truck is smooth again, but the brake shuddering returns after a few miles.

The truck does need new tires and an alignment. The current tires are uneven. However, I don't think these are the main culprit because the brake shudder is not constant. It only happens after driving and braking for a few miles. Does 30 seconds make a big enough temperature difference to affect the

Based on my research on this form and Google, the next things I need to check are:

• rear drums (I found the TSB BR003-02 and checked NHTSA.gov, but there are no recalls outstanding),
• ABS (maybe take out the fuse to test w/out ABS?)
• maybe flushing and bleeding the brakes including the LPSV,
• front calipers sticking (looks like OE 13WE calipers)

Are there anything else I should check? Thanks.

 

First off: Do yourself a favor. Put the parts-cannon away and stop the Google-Fu. It sounds like you're gonna waste a lot of money refreshing stuff that may be fine. And know: Many aftermarket rotors and drums come warped straight outta the box. Best to stick to OEM (Advics, in this case) w/brakes.

Second: Explain the shuddering. Is it ABS engagement? Do you see any lights flicker in the dash when happening?

There is a strong possibility you caused the problem here with the bearing pressing and/or ABS sensor removal/reinstall. Does the truck have ABS? Did you follow the FSM with regard to tolerances when you pressed in the new bearings?

I'm asking the latter for the exact reasons already explained in here, with instructions on how to check => https://www.tundras.com/threads/need-a-little-help-here-brake-shimmy-and-abs-kicking-in.146298/

 

You need to isolate the shudder to either the front or back. If you have replaced the front discs it is most likely a brake drum issue. While driving apply the parking brake and see if the shudder happens. If it does, this verifies the rear drums need to be replaced.