(Another) Rusty Frame Post - Seeking Opinions (and a Class Action?) 2006 Tundra Double Cab

Hi All. New member, long time owner here. I had a nice long post typed out, but it got gobbled up by the machine when I went to add the photos.

Bottom line is I had some work done recently and found some issues. I've read many of the other threads on this topic and am wondering what you all might have to say about the following:

1. Safety - are we safe to keep driving in the current condition.
2. Prevention - what can/should be done to prevent further deterioration. My situation seems different enough that maybe the standard "rust removal and coat of POR" is only part of the answer?
3. Fix - what are my options? Can I have a section frame cut out and welded back in with additional plates for support? Replace the whole frame? What are the cost ranges for your suggestions?
4. Mechanic - The shop that did my work (leaf springs, front coils, tires, etc.) didn't point this out to me - I found it myself before he took it off the lift. Seems like they put good parts on bad and should have said something about the frame issue before doing $5k worth of other work. Thoughts?
5. Class Action - Has this ever been discussed here? Seems like it's an issue with just about every truck from that era that is still on the road . . . or at least those that spent time on treated roads and/or coastal environments.

Other details:

• I'm the original owner, purchased in Maryland. Light use in the early years, but definitely ran it during every winter storm.
• It got the recall coating, but that was a decade ago at this point.
• No current recall items showing at Toyota.
• Now in Bay Area California - mostly used in the East Bay with fog, some rainy season, mostly dry for 9 months of the year. Drives to Tahoe where they don't use salt around the lake, which is where it would get the most exposure.
• Pictures have descriptions.

Thanks in advance, for any/all input.

https://www.tundras.com/media/albums/2006-toyota-tundra-frame-issues.14480/

 

That rust didn't happen over night.

How have you or your mechanic, not noticed it in 16 years?

 

Good question. Entirely unhelpful, and not worth answering since it provides no value and can't possibly matter moving forward, but it's certainly a question I'm asking myself.

 

There's a phrase for this: "Shit happens".

Looking at it from a legal perspective, I feel like lawyers like to introduce doubt by proving there are many asses which can be kicked for X and Y, so "nobody is truuuuuly to blame here". Or they'll take the avenue of, "this isn't unique to Toyota, look at all these other brands of rust belt-driven trucks that rot out" to prove it's 'normal'.

But there's probably enough room for a class action lawsuit based on quantity. Question is, can it be won? What's the payout?

And it starts with you reaching out to several big-fish firms that typically handle class-action lawsuits with players of this size. Once they file the suit, post on all the Tundra forums you can find asking people to reach out. You can be the change, the trigger, whatever. It has to start somewhere.

 

Read through this. https://www.tundras.com/threads/my-2001-trd-access-cab-repair-modify-thread.71679/

 

I would definitely be asking my mechanic why it wasn't brought to my attention earlier.

You won't get a lawsuit started. They will claim it's normal and you are somewhat responsible for salt and rust prevention. Which is why they usually offer it at time of sale.

Moving forward....get a new mechanic. Look under the bed every spring and fall. Treat it with something like WoolWax, Fluid Film etc, yearly.

My 2019 already has some surface rust on frame joints (I'm in Canada) and I'll be sanding, treating that areas with some POR-15 in the spring.

 

@des2mtn that was an amazing thread! If only I had those skills and that much time on my hands. Maybe I can find someone to do similar work. My bed needs a patch too, so doubly helpful. And thanks @shifty` and @BravoDeltaRomeo - I think I'll pass on the Class Action

 

www.autorust.com for replacement parts. Better get that leaf spring mount fixed, looks dangerous enough even I wouldn’t be driving it. Bang it with a hammer and chisel and get rid of all those delaminated layers of metal rust and either reinforce it with the autorust parts or just treat the cancer with POR-15.

 

OP, you're in a bit of a pickle with that spring shackle. My 2006 is delaminating and swelling at the frame reinforcements same as yours, just not as severe yet. Start calling lots of shops in your area to see if they can fix it. Of the shops I've talked to here in MD, none of them wanted to work on it. All said they don't do frame patches/welds due to liability concerns. I even called a collision repair shop and they said no. I'm studying N8443's post and will have to tackle this project next summer. I just hope my frame makes it through this winter as I'm planning a couple of 800 mile ski trips to VT this winter. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

@remington351 that's what I'm hearing too re: the liability. Can't even find a junk yard with an old frame to swap in . . . not looking good. Might be time to cut bait. Now trying to figure out if I can clean it up enough to feel safe driving it another 10k. Figure if I don't load it, I might be able to . . .

 

Car-part.com has frames. It looks like they are around $1000-$1800 plus shipping from the Southeast, which will of course not be cheap for an item that large. It is an option though.

 

Rust sucks. Bet if you don’t deal with it as an early preventative it’s gonna be a problem eventually. And once it’s bad it’s junk! I unfortunately have had to cut my loses with a bunch of vehicles I hated to get rid of. Ford excursion, jeep wranglers, a Toyota Tundra. It’s not just Toyota that has the problem. Think of the gazillion jeeps that had junk frames and jeep did nothing. At least Toyota did a lot for their customers as far as rusty frames. But it comes a point where the manufacturer shouldn’t have to fix a problem forever.

 

Hey remington351,
I'm in MD as well and my frame looks like yours. I bought it new and had it Ziebarted right away. Toyota did the recall years later and applied rust gunk and it's still rusting.
I spray it down every 6 months with Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Peotector. The truck only has 72K miles. Other than the frame rust I'd like to keep it forever. Not sure if I'll look into repairing the frame.

 

Not sure. I had it done in 2006 and I guess it was more popular years ago.

 

Yep, any of those rubberized coatings for under the truck and frame hold moisture and actually make the truck rust worse.

fluid film and similar products are what is best under there

 

The sad thing is that Toyota sprayed a simular product as part of the recall.
I just flood it with Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Peotector every 6 months. Hoping to keep it as long as I can.

If I knew of a shop that would fix it I would have it done. Only 72K miles.

 

I know of two shops in Maryland. I'm anticipating a similar repair in the near future. I have used Freestyle before, so I can vouch for him. Let me know how you make out.

Maryland
Framerite Automotive Service
6414 Harford Rd
Baltimore, MD 21214
410-254-3413 (Bill Taylor)

http://www.frameriteauto.com
********************************************

Freestyle Fabrication and Offroad
11 Calvary Rd.
Churchville, MD 21028
443-903-8964

Adam Britton Owner/Fabricator
freestylefaboffroad@gmail.com

 

Thanks. Framerite has been in Hamilton for a long time. Not too far from me. I didn't know if they did that type of rust repair.

 

Get a welder, learn to weld. This bypasses all the liability issues. $300 in tools TOPS and your good.

At the end of the day, the frame is nothing more than some fairly lightweight steel channel. If the whole thing has rusted too thin to be used, its a problem. But the usual issue is certain spots are badly rusted. Its not a complicated job to weld new metal over the rusted spots and get another 10-20 years from the frame (at which point everything else is so old the issue is moot)

Seriously, frame welding is very basic welding. Its trivial compared to say, trying to fix a hole rusted through a door panel. Any first year highschool shop student could do it. An adult to learn enough to do it after a weekend of practice and a few hours reading.

 

AMEN!!!!

This is exactly how I approached my truck when I bought it. I hadn't welded in probably 20 years, so I got a cheap Flux Core Wire Feed welder, practiced up for a few days and went to town.
The biggest hurdle is disassembly of the truck. Removing the bed, fuel tank, raising the cab if needed...
Those frame stiffeners are such a huge problem for these trucks. Thankfully, their super easy to replicate and really not that difficult to drill out.

 

I would think welding overhead to fix frame rot in the front cab area would be challenging but I’ve yet to learn about it.

 

Interesting...I never considered Flux Core because I didn't think it could handle thick steel, but after some quick research I was mistaken.

 

The frame of the truck isn't thick. Not even 1/4 inch.

And in any-case, when it comes to welding, its thin steel that is hard to weld.

And depending on the fix, a lot can be done in-situ, without taking the truck apart.

 

I made my stiffeners from 1/4" steel and the welder did great. Probably overkill considering the original stiffeners were 3/16 or less, but I wanted it to last.

 

How many amps is your welder?

 

@w666 Sorry... just saw this. It's rated at 140 amps. Got it off Amazon. Forney Easy Weld 261.

 

I did the same thing to mine with no welding at all. Is it correct? Not really sure but I had it inspected after I did it and they didn’t say anything. I went really heavy with it and I feel it’s way stronger than stock.
I got a 3/8” plate of steel and 1/4” angle to make the corner. Air hammer and pounded out all the rivets. Then 1/2” grade 8 bolts. I also extended it a few inches on each side

 

@N84434 What was the thickness on those autorust.com pieces you purchased for welding repair? 3/16”?

 

I have them too...11 ga steel it says (.116"). Hmm, I would have thought more.
https://www.autorust.com/product/front-frame-section-art-213-l-driver-side/

 

I would have had to look it up on their site as well. That seems about right, though.

And, that note about the frame cap only fitting 4 door models is Wrong.

Unless their including the Access Cab as a 4 door? Mine fit like a fine leather glove.