Another 'is this frame rust salvageable' post, help!

Is this a concerning amount of frame rust (only on the back end, the worst of it by the rear bumper) for a 2000 Tundra? Took a look at her today and the whole front end passed inspection with flying colors, drives and shifts smoothly (less smoothly with the ac running but seems in good shape) Current owner has sunk $6500 into keeping the mechanical work up to date. Does this rust make it a hard pass or could some good ol sanding and fluid film spray/POR-15 get her looking as good as new? Should also note it's a PNW vehicle with just over 200k miles and will be used mainly for camping/not planning on hauling anything, thanks in advance folks- she wants an answer tomorrow and I cant afford to buy a lemon here haha

 

What's that last pic? It's too close to tell what I'm looking at.
You haven't really shown enough to be able to give an educated opinion. What you have shown looks workable, but you haven't shown the typical problem areas: the center area with the riveted support brackets (both sides), directly before and after the rear axle "hump" (both sides), drop the spare and show everything back there.

Even if the areas I indicted above check out OK, just going by the pics we have now I'd say you aren't going to sand/wire wheel this down, apply some POR-15 and be done with it. This will require a needle scaler with an air compressor and hours of work (maybe a couple of days) removing rust and scale. Then apply POR-15 if you want, but since you can't get to all the little nooks and crannies to properly prep, the POR-15 isn't going to be a permanent solution. You'll also have to follow up with a regular regimen of undercarriage treatment of your choice (Wool Wax, Fluid Film, WD-40, PB Surface Shield). That's for the frame. Then there's some visible areas of the body and box that need to be cleaned up and treated. Which would indicated to me that the top of the wheel wells and rocker panels likely have some rust that will need to be looked at and prepped/treated as needed.

Are you handy, willing to put in the work, and do you have the tools?

 

Appreciate the insight! These were the worst rust spots so I didn't think to photograph anything else as it didn't look too bad, wheel wells, rocker panel areas looked pretty spotless but I didnt check under the spare.. I don't have an air compressor or needle scaler, you dont think a wire wheel would be sufficient enough to get into all of those little spots? Doesn't seem unworkable compared to some of the other frames I've seen from this era but at 226k miles and a $7500 asking price it might not be a project I should jump into, hmmm

*edit- last picture is the right side beam that runs alongside the top edge of the truck close to the bed (not sure on terminology, apologies)

 

It's a 2000 it's should still be frame recall eligible if it has rust in the right places. Post a picture of the spare tire crossmember where it attaches to the rest of the frame if you can.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/early-1st-gen-2000-2003-tundra-frame-replacement-faq.54331/

 

The rear trailing arms where holes are often are worst - I always take a screwdriver with me to poke at areas of suspicion - shouldn't go thru.

From what little I can see - it appears 'iffy' = better be Cheap.

 

It’s probably doable if that’s the worst stuff (although I also can’t tell what that third photo is). Price needs to be really good befor I’ll buy another vehicle with ANY rust. The parts all wants to fight you for everything. On the bright side I’ve learned some new skills…..

But did I really want to?

 

Yaas. You can show your fellow Texans that you can bust a nut better than anyone else.

 

No

 

How much are they asking? I would pass here on that amount of rust because I work on my own vehicles and don’t hate myself enough to set myself up for that much frustration.

 

+1

 

Nope. Pass.

The frame is literally delaminated to the point there's almost nothing left in the last pic. It also looks like it may've been coated, which was one of two options for the SSC/recall campaign, and if it was coated, you're no longer eligible.

Even if it's eligible for the frame SSC/recall, you're going to be out upwards of $2k-3k on the frame swap, because you've got to pony up for extras. The dealership covers the frame swap and a few key components, anything else that breaks or is worn out comes out of your pocket. They'll give you a number up front as an estimate of what to expect, that number will likely climb, or possibly shrink as things break while they dig into it.

The person selling this is smoking crack as it is, wanting $7500 with 226k on the clock unless it's loaded options, clean frame, and has had the timing belt and water pump done within the last 5yr/50k miles.

Say you do buy it ... and it is frame-recall-eligible. You're going to wait 3-4 months if approved. You're going to pay $2k-3k minimum out of pocket (that's the avg for others on here who've been approved). You'll have a nice clean new frame, while you'll be in the hole for $9,500 to $10,500 on a 225k mile vehicle. All said, other things will still be rotting. Body mounts. Fender wells. Rockers and possibly cab corners. And you'll still be fighting rust on fasteners with every maintenance or repair you do. Does that sound like a good buy to you?

I'd rather go out and spend $10k-12k on a clean-frame truck with 175k miles on it, personally.

The seller can eat a pile of ass, right after they get their head out of their own ass.

 

Well said!

 

That truck might be currently located in the PNW, but it sure hasn’t spent its whole life here. No doubt it has spent a decent amount of time in a salty state.

 

haha hot dam

 

Legends, the lot of you! Saving me a $7500 headache I really can't afford right now- very grateful for the insight!! I passed the information on to the seller so she can use it to *try* and price her truck more realistically

 

That will not happen. (in my experience)

But to be fair, there were not enough pics of critical areas for any of us to make a definitive call.

 

There was enough for me. And agree, “they know what they’ve got” pricing will persist.