Another 4HI blinking issue…but slightly different twist

***Accidentally posted this to the 1st gen page so re-trying here....

Hi guys - I’ve read through a ton of threads on this and all of the info has been extremely helpful.

I’m just going to explain my issue though as it seems a bit different than what I’ve seen here so far.

So basically I realized I hadn’t messed with 4WD in quite a while (like over a year) so I started playing with it a couple days ago and found some issues, but after getting the actuators moving a bit, things seem to have mostly resolved themselves EXCEPT one specific instance:

My truck has no problem engaging 4HI (cruising at speed) or 4Lo (per the usual method), but my problem comes when disengaging 4HI. When I switch to 2WD, the transfer case does its thing just fine, but the front ADD only seems to stop blinking 4HI if I disengage below 10mph.

To be more specific, if I’m rolling under 10mph, switch to 2WD then all good. BUT, if I switch to 2wd going more than 10mph, the light keeps on blinking until I do one of two things. 1) Turn the truck off and back on, or 2) switch back into 4HI and then back to 2wd going under 10mph. When I say going under 10, that includes when stopped!

The obvious solution would be to replace or repair the ADD, but I also have a slight steering issue where I have to hold the wheel slightly right in order to drive straight. This started when i popped a curb just a bit too quickly. I got an alignment done recently that did not fix this steering issue.

So finally my question…could it be the bad front alignment that’s binding the front wheels and preventing the ADD from doing its thing when driving at speed, or should a decent ADD be able to handle that anyway? I'm not sure the alignment/steering issue is a candidate for causing this problem at all which is why I ask.

I’m on fixed hours and budget now so would really appreciate any help!

 

What happens if you go above 10 MPH, switch to 2WD, count 1-2-3 then let the accelerator pedal go? 1-2-3, remove leg from the pedal is how I do it on the go. Gears do naturally bind under load, by reducing engine torque you flip the load vector, this removes load from gears for a fraction of second and ADD has a better chance to engage/disengage.