Alignment after lift seems off

Hi all, I’m a long time reader, first time poster. It’s amazing how much you can learn in these forums.
I recently lifted my truck with the Bilstein 5100 at top setting. After reading lots of post here all went very well and the truck sits level. I may add a 1” shackle in the future as I have not towed my 29’ trailer with it yet and don’t know how it will sit with the airlift bags. I don’t anticipate it sag much but I don’t want the front up higher than the rear. Anyway, the reason for my post is the alignment.
I brought the truck into my local shop the day after I lifted it. On my return to pick it up they said they were not going to charge me as it did not need to be aligned after seeing the specs on the machine. They said it was all in spec. I told them it was lifted and they said we align lifted trucks all the time. Can’t imaging lifting the truck 2.5” and not needing an alignment. I can see a slight negative camber with the naked eye but I’m told it’s in spec. I asked for a print out and here is what I was sent. Please see pic attached. Not sure what to make of the readings. Do this look ok to you? Thanks!

 

I had my wheels aligned since this post and thought I was good. I have heavy feathering in the front. Specs attached. I’m wearing tires bad. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks

 

The second sheet is very hard to read, but it looks like your toe was out of whack prior to that alignment, which could cause abnormal tire wear. Interesting that literally ever measurement was completely different between the "final" of the first, and the "initial" of the second.

As for your visual camber, it's showing 0.5º positive camber on both fronts (after the fact), but that is within spec. The only alignment spec that is "ok" to be out of spec is caster, and only if it is higher than spec (as you lift the vehicle the amount of positive caster you an achieve decreases, which is one of the reasons UCAs add caster)

 

Thanks for the response. Took another pic. Hopefully this is better. I can’t figure this out. The inside of the tires are perfect.

 

Is there more wear on one side than the other (left vs right)? The Initial toe on the left is really out

 

There is no noticeable difference. Would the caster be a wear factor on turns. My BFGs KO2s wore perfectly flat. Then I lifted the truck and put new wheels and Duratracs on the truck. I would have thought its my driving but the BFG have zero feathering. I have had a second alignment done but it’s not far from these specs. I’ll see if I can find it. Pic of tire attached. I just rotated them after $5k.

 

I don't believe caster will cause abnormal tire wear, just poor handling characteristics

 

Yeah it’s weird. Handling is fine but when turning sharp you can feel and hear the heavy lugs.

 

That’s probably the high camber. And that will cause the outside of tires to wear faster. The camber should be closer to 0.
My camber is at 0.12 and I can feel the lugs of the ridge grapplers on sharp turns.

 

Are you getting any wear on the outside of the ridge grapplers?

 

i have had these tires for over a year and i cannot visually see any additional wear on the outside of the tires. perhaps if i measured the tread, the outside may have more wear.

 

OP, you may have someone watch from outside the truck as you turn, especially over obstacles (speed bumps, dips at intersections, whatever would occur in your normal driving when your previous tires got feathered). You mention feeling the lugs on turns but if it turns out it’s actually the lugs skimming across something, that’d tell you where to adjust. if you don’t have a helper, you could rub a thick layer of different colour chalks at anything it might be (body mount; rear edge of fender; forward edge of fender; suspension components near the tires field of movement). Run the truck through a bunch of turns, see if any chalk marks the tires, and where.

I’ve been taught to ask that caster be moved as far forward as possible first, then get the others as close to 0 as possible with caster far forward. The truck handles great this way, and avoids tire rub on the body mount and fenders at full lock and in reverse. Unfortunately, any shop relying on that machine in your first pic, probably won’t be comfortable doing anything “outside of specs”.

 

I’m going to do the chalk test today and have a look like you said. I was thinking it was alignment but it may not be. I did ask the guy at the alignment shop to give me as much caster as possible while getting camber and toe in the low part of the spec which I thought looked great.

 

All I can say is this.
I added a pair of Rough Country shocks up front to level my rig.
They added two inches of height to the front. We checked alignment at that point and it was substantially out.
Adjustment was made and things are good now.
I've heard from others that no worries until you hit three inches but I'm here to tell you that on mine, re alignment was needed at two inches of additional lift.
My mechanic who installed has a nice Taco lifted and he said Toyota trucks come from the factory off too many times.
So, there you have it.

 

I had similar issues. Took 4 alignments to get it right. It was the 3rd shop I went to that dialed it in like it was nothing.

 

I may take it to another shop. I checked to see if there was any rubbing by using chalk and turning hard and no rub anywhere. Now my rotated tires that came from the back are starting to look and sound like the front after 1000 kms. Frustrating.

 

Where in the US are you? Adding your general location to your profile may prompt recommendations in instances like this. For example, a bunch of guys near me share advice on where to get alignments done, where not to. I know this stuff kind of gets shared in multiple locales, but if you don’t post it, it’s hit and miss that someone will put 2+2 together and share resources.

 

I don't know shit about the alignment numbers.
But any change in alignment will cause different wear on the tires. Get an alignment then rotate the tires, she'll feel out of sorts til the new wear.
In ME one of the aspects needs to be adjusted diff than other states because of the lay of the road.
Hope she ride smooth again
bring her to a front end shop?

 

I live in NL, Canada. It a rough climate so besides wearing out tires I want my tire contact with the road to be right.

 

I can’t figure it out. I’ve uploaded a few photos. The CV angle when the wheel is at full lock looks off and when the wheel is cut it is not level with the pavement at all.

 

Looks normal to me in the turn pic.

 

I think you might have misinterpreted what was said, or you were misinformed. Adding lift to the front you will always need alignment.

The 3 inch marker is in regards to needing new upper control arms. The stock ones are usually ok up to 2.5 to 3 inches, but beyond that new UPCs are needed to get alignments back to acceptable levels.

 

Makes sense, as it drives real nice and the truck got rid of most sway now with the Sumospring addition.