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Aftermarket or Toyota trailer brake controller?

Discussion in 'Towing & Hauling' started by Wada, Oct 21, 2020.

  1. Oct 21, 2020 at 7:22 PM
    #1
    Wada

    Wada [OP] New Member

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    Curious if anyone can tell me if buying the Toyota trailer brake controller would have any benefits/disadvantages over an aftermarket one? If the only difference is price, I would rather have the factory look of the Toyota unit. Thanks.

    0C64FD64-438F-4F9F-88F2-E6B2D550E051.jpg
     
  2. Oct 21, 2020 at 8:08 PM
    #2
    BigArt

    BigArt New Member

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  3. Oct 21, 2020 at 8:33 PM
    #3
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    I also like my vehicles to have OEM equipment rather than use aftermarket accessories. After reading threads about the Tundra IBC, I was glad that my 4.6L didn't come with the tow package so I could add my own brake controller. Search "IBC", and you'll see what I mean. Functionally, it is a no-brainer to go with the Tekonsha P3 already mentioned. They are popular and in short supply recently, but looks like it is back in stock at Amazon for $152 (plus an adapter harness).

    The Tekonsha P3 can mounted in the dash just like the OEM controller using the IBC dash panel and an aftermarket mounting plate.
     
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  4. Oct 23, 2020 at 5:22 PM
    #4
    HulkSmurf14

    HulkSmurf14 ...Weighted Average...

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    P3 is superior and more than one may need for a trailer brake-controller...there are a lot of issues/idiosyncrasies with the OEM version...
     
  5. Oct 24, 2020 at 9:21 PM
    #5
    Tracy Perry

    Tracy Perry New Member

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    If I was given a choice between the IBC and an aftermarket, I'll take the aftermarket every time.
    The factory one in my 2019 works with our Winnebago 2401RG and worked with our 1790 we had.... but the Prodigy we had in the 4Runner (before we got the Tundra) worked with the 1790 WORLDS better.
     
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  6. Oct 25, 2020 at 12:00 AM
    #6
    Tracker

    Tracker New Member

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    I have the OEM brake controller and love it. I was able to completely stop the trailer smooth and fast using only the controller. No issues at all and I would recommend it based on my experiences. I did watch a youtube video which really helped understand how to use it. The manual was confusing and I can see how some people might not be using it properly.
     
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  7. Oct 25, 2020 at 12:49 AM
    #7
    Tracy Perry

    Tracy Perry New Member

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    There's no comparison between it and a Prodigy aftermarket. You would have to use both on the same trailer to know the difference.
    The Winnebago 1790 we had would lock the trailer tires up in gravel on a 4.5 setting on the Prodigy attached behind the 4Runner.
    The same trailer behind the first 2019 Tundra we had (tree killed both it and the 1790 when it fell) would sometimes do the same even with the IBC on the Tundra set at 9 but usually would not.
    This was using the manual engagement mechanism of both controllers. I had the weight set correctly for the trailer weight and in electric only mode for the controller brakes. I had also adjusted the brakes on the trailer shortly after getting it (when we had the 4Runner) and again after getting the truck since we had towed the trailer for a few thousand miles and the brakes had settled in.

    The IBC is no comparison to the better Prodigy aftermarket controllers. Ours works, but it doesn't work as well as the Prodigy did.
     
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  8. Oct 27, 2020 at 12:48 PM
    #8
    frichco228

    frichco228 Valued Member

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    If your truck didnt come with one, get the P3. My truck has the factory controller and it does work- no errors, but the p3 is so much better. Since you need to spend $ to get a controller, do yourself a favor and skip the factory controller.
     
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  9. Oct 27, 2020 at 1:26 PM
    #9
    NorthWoodsTundra

    NorthWoodsTundra Hehehe, you said 'member'...hehehe

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    I have an '18 and the OEM has served me just fine pulling a 7500# Jayco as well as a pretty heavy dump trailer.
     
  10. Oct 27, 2020 at 2:13 PM
    #10
    drowhawk

    drowhawk New Member

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    I like the IBC better because instead of using a gyroscope to retroactively apply the brakes, the integrated controller uses linear output based on the brake pedal position sensor input. I had the P3 on my 2010 Tundra and could never get the balance right on my travel trailer. The '19 with integrated trailer makes it feel like the truck doesn't even have any weight behind it.
     
  11. Nov 15, 2020 at 8:56 PM
    #11
    geehawwhoagit

    geehawwhoagit New Member

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    I bought a P3 unit, sprung for the in dash mounting plate and couldn't be happier with both. It beats having some little box hanging down under the dash as a knee knocker. The install face plate makes it real nice. It's only money.
     
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  12. Nov 16, 2020 at 6:12 AM
    #12
    Hugemoose

    Hugemoose New Member

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    Not enough....
    My 16 came with the IBC, didn't like it one bit. Even when it worked properly, It was never strong enough, and the lack of fine adjustability bothered me.

    I switched to the P3 along with the mounting plate from ESP truck accessories and couldn't be happier. It simply doesn't compare to the factory one. It's so much easier for me to switch between a lightweight, empty enclosed trailer, and my car trailer, empty and loaded up with all of the adjustability, and "boost" settings. It also has diagnostic features that are helpful if needed.
     
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  13. Nov 16, 2020 at 6:30 AM
    #13
    HulkSmurf14

    HulkSmurf14 ...Weighted Average...

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    I too have the P3 and it's amazing, but still down immediately above the parking brake...I have the ESP kit but it appears my harness will not reach to where it should plug into/splice near the parking brake...is there another, yet longer harness for the P3 that can make this an easy swap over? I have an additional harness but where it states to splice into, it seems to be much too short to work....must I just splice more wires on the end of the P3 harness to lengthen and use?
     
  14. Nov 16, 2020 at 8:54 AM
    #14
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    I believe 2014 has a plug-in connector behind driver-side kick panel. Tekonsha makes an adapter harness for it (3040-P), so the wires should be long enough for the OEM controller location. Amazon has it $11.99:

    https://www.tekonsha.com/products/brake-controllers/2-plug-adapters/trailer-brake-control-harness/TzaIxkVx1cJJgWsByztj|e238YCySFpTAcKKgoc0|l4=

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004WLL0O...wVehicle=1&vehicleId=6&vehicleType=automotive

    Or...you can probably extend your existing harness wires easier and quicker than worrying and typing your post. Solder, shrink tube, done...bad news is you want have the plug-n-play connector end.
     
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2020
  15. Nov 16, 2020 at 10:48 AM
    #15
    geehawwhoagit

    geehawwhoagit New Member

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    My kit came with the harness that allowed me to remove the kick panel, unplug the assembly. Plug in the adapter and then replug. It was a tight fit from there to the trick dash panel but it works just fine with proper access to the handcontrol, too. Best of the bestest. Mind you, this is a barebones 2014 that has a minimum of accessories and wiring.
     
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  16. Nov 16, 2020 at 12:21 PM
    #16
    HulkSmurf14

    HulkSmurf14 ...Weighted Average...

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    I have the P3 already plugged in the usual place near the driver's-side location above the parking brake. I also bought the additional harness from the same link you posted John Lakeman...I will try again to see if I can get the P3 harness that's already plugged in, to the "trick" location and see if, however tight it may be, try to get all plugged in and fitted correctly. Thanks for the suggestions and I will chime in again when I try or make-to-fit the additional harness...
     
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  17. Nov 16, 2020 at 12:57 PM
    #17
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    Hmmm...OK, maybe Tekonsha isn't trying to get it to the OEM position. Maybe they intend the buyer mount the controller under the dash on the left side of the steering column, which would be no bueno for me. If the harness is too short, cut one end off leaving enough to splice to, then add whatever length you need for the distance. Better than splicing into your truck's harnesses.
     
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