After Market Boost Gauge

Anyone put a boost gauge on their tundra yet? I know the trims with the digital cluster display boost but not the lower trim cluster. Just curious. I have an SR5 that was built and shipped today. Should have it in a few weeks! Pretty excited. I’m going from a 2017 Tacoma TRDOR to the Tundra.

 

We have these 14” screens on our truck. Please Toyota give us a screen option that can display all the gauges and information.

 

I’ll bet an app for Android Auto or Apple CarPlay could do that with a OBD-II port device to interface with.

 

Something like this would work. I had a similar unit in my old turbo subaru. You can customize all the gauge displays and colors, etc. Worked pretty well for easy monitoring.

https://www.autometer.com/dashlink-...ZE5RlALumuNa7KVqRSEaAtXkEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

Get an OBDII Bluetooth adapter and use your cell phone or a tablet.

 

Don’t know if it’s true or not but I’ve heard it’s not good to hook something up to the OBD port permanently. How long did you have it hooked up?

 

This is a wive's tale. The ECM will talk to a diagnostic device forever. It can do this because there's a maximum data rate across the OBD bus that it will not exceed. In other words, it only dedicates a very small portion of its computing bandwidth for OBD. When and if the dealership needs to access the OBD port for diagnostics or firmware updates, they'll simply unplug your aftermarket device from the port.

 

Thank you for the feedback. Much appreciated.

 

Devices can pull power from the Port with Ignition off. It’s a small battery drain but with a weak battery or over a few days it can cause a low or dead battery. My OBD WiFi adapter is warm all the time if left plugged in.

 

not much different than a remote alarm/remote start system. they have to pull power all the time so you can remote start it either via the toyota app or the fob or any 3rd party app/device. you probably dont want to know how many systems are pulling minor power to keep all those systems alive in standby mode if you are concerned about a odb2 port attachment pulling power.

 

Thats why you should get a nice one like an OBDLink that goes to sleep.

 

can confirm; My dad actually works for the company that does engine/trans work for auto manufacturers (he's a lead engineer), some of their test models run ~50k miles with testers connected. never an issue.

 

according to him, they've yet to come around one engine that failed due to reasons outside of user error. People beat the living shit out of the brand new engine, and then get shocked that it's having an issue. In all fairness, however, they do not do customer teardowns - Toyota's internal team does.

For the record, Toyota supplied them with 4 trucks for stress test; one did fail engine testing but it was at the very end of the dyno-run - it is a 10 hour cycle of hard acceleration and hard speed reduction.

Toyota, so far, has been regarded by his boss (the company owner) as the worst business investment they made - they built a separate facility specifically for their trans/engine rebuild operations (it is a fully automated facility, requiring a shop that is the size of Walmart), and they barely get enough work to keep it running at capacity (capacity is 100+ units a day). For contrast, they have two such facilities for Ford alone.

 

^Because that sounds like a pile of malarkey

 

I have no idea who he is nor do I care, honestly. What i'm told is what i'm told.

 

now i'm confused.
I think we're saying the same thing.. so.. how is what I said not in line with your assessments? Fred must be confused. 0_o

 

The Car Scanner app has a boost gauge. Whether you trust an OBD bluetooth app is up to you.

 

Yes. There are a couple live boost data streams in there. The “Calculated” one does not seem correct. Boosts Sensor A is a more realistic figure.

 

I tried the Boost Pressure Sensor A vs. Calculated Boost

Boost Pressure Sensor A was showing 14 psi when I was driving on cruise control at 35 mph. I would think boost would be zero under that condition. Does anyone know what the maximum boost is on this engine (no hybrid)?

 

I’m not positive but I believe the calculated boost for me was showing the ambient air pressure at idle (14psi at sea level) I saw it read from 25 to 30psi while boosting which is typical for most non-racing turbos (twice ambient pressure). Ive just switched to Sensor A and at idle read zero which is what I’d expect - no boosting. Still need to go do some acceleration runs and see if it then reads between 14 and 20psi.