After lifting and alignment, front tires tilt out

Just had a 3" King setup with Camburg UCA's installed. After I had it aligned, I noticed the both front tires are tilted out slightly at the top. It is within spec but wondering why they are not straight up and down. I asked the alignment shop about this and was told that this is pretty typical for a lifted Tundra. I guess I could see that if just lifting the stock suspension (or maybe the stock suspension would be tilted inward after lifting?), but isn't the reason for replacing the UCA's to correct this?



Maybe a lil more noticeable on the passenger side:

 

A little positive camber is spec, at least on my 2016... but the comment from the tech doesn't give me a warm feeling. According to this: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2022/MC-10210384-9999.pdf Spec is .48 deg +-.75 ... so -.27 to 1.23... which I think is a big range. Did you get a printout?

 

Thanks rruff. Yes, the printout shows -.6 to .9 for the range. Both sides are at .6. I guess it’s not a problem. Was just curious why they don’t set them to zero.

 

I prefer zero camber... I think the tires wear better and it's even within the spec.

I've done my own alignments... it isn't that tricky. As you've noticed it's something you can eyeball, and if you get a little angle-finder you can be pretty precise. If you have a flat piece of concrete to work on, you're in good shape. Toe and camber are the more important ones, and both can be eyeballed pretty well. Make caster the same on both (or a little higher on the passenger side) and err on the high side... which means to move the wheel forward in the well.

To make your camber zero without changing caster, you'd extend both the front and rear LCA cams outward. Adjust toe last.

 

I may take a whack at adjusting it myself. I think my driveway is fairly level side to side but definitely sloped about 1/4" per foot toward the street. I would probably need to build some platforms to get it level first.

Thanks again for the help.

 

You want camber to be 0 +/- .01.
.6 is going to give you accelerated wear.

 

If you've got a little wrenching experience it isn't hard.

I agree on that... it'll wear the outer edges. Of course you can "mask" that by getting 5k rotations...

 

Think tech saying it's typical means he typically does it as fast as he can with as little effort to get green lights on machine and thos is what he typically sees afterward.

 

I recently installed a 3/1 leveling kit and 285/65/20 tires. Had an alignment done right away. Tires are noticeably leaned out at the top. The tech where I had it done said that is the best they can do without installing aftermarket alignment bolts with a bigger cam profile as they are at their max adjustment. Doesn't seem right to me. What say you guys?
p.s...he also said they won't have excess wear at this setting which I'm sure is incorrect.

 

You should have gotten a 2/0 level kit.


Let's see how your cam bolts are adjusted. Should be front cams all the way in, rear ones adjusted to get camber in spec. Camber needs to be ~0.0 to keep from wearing your tires. Caster will be whatever it is. You'll need to buy aftermarket UCAs to increase caster... or get a 2/0 level like I said.