Adding aftermarket tow package items to increase tow capacity?

Hey all.

TV: Tundra 2014 V8 4.6 L SR5 Double Cab 4x2 Rear Wheel Drive
TT: Coachmen Apex Ultra Lite 300BHS

I got the truck used, it came with a 7 pin connector and tow hitch. The dealership said the previous owner paid around $500 to get it done but it is not a tow package. That puts my truck into 6,800 lbs tow capacity and 1,340 lbs payload.

I intend to get a travel trailer above. Dry weight: 6000 lbs, max loaded 7600 lbs. I intend to lighten up the trailer by removing some unnecessary furniture items and reducing the weigh by 500 lbs or so and keep the max weight to 6800-7000 lbs which is still pushing it to the limits of my tow capacity. Also, the size of the trailer is pretty long, 35 ft which I know will not make it easier to tow.

I don't intent to drive it very often but the plan to take it traveling during summers and cross from east to midwest and stay in the mountains. Again, not too much mountain driving. Maybe a couple of trips during those 3 summer months to change a location.

These are the items I m looking into to help my truck suffer less:

• Weigh distribution hitch CURT with swing control bars
• Brake controller (p 3)
• Transmission cooler
• Engine oil cooler
• Air bags
• Tow mirrors
• Fan clutch. Big maybe
• Bigger alternator - not sure, found some suggestion online
• Bigger muffler
• New tires. Mine need to be replaced anyways. Any recommendations will be great. I have LT Michelin tires now. Rim is 18 "

I m not looking to increase my tow capacity by much but I want to make my truck feel better towing, myself not sweating as much and be safe on the road for myself and others.

Has anyone done these mods? What is your experience? Any other suggestions to add to the list? Thanks in advance for all the feedback!

 

That's a LOT of trailer. Tongue weight could very easily but close to 1,000 lbs.

I personally wouldn't do it. Towing at or over limits is tiring at best, and potentially dangerous or deadly at worst.

I don't like being tired when I get to my campsite, and I like being dead even less.

Just out of curiosity, do you really need that big of a trailer? A good floorplan with a slide can be very comfortable in a much smaller and user friendly trailer.

 

SD Surfer, thanks for your reply.

I wish I could get away with a smaller trailer but I plan on RVing full time for most of the year and then travel in the summer. I have pets and this is the lightest option I could find with 2 bedrooms layout. I ve search for days. The tongue weight is 672 lbs which is not too bad.

My plan it to drive a relatively short distance from the dealer with dry weight only and park the trailer on my property. So I won't be moving it much. Then take it for a vacay in the summer. It will be a long stretch from FL to CO but then it will be parked in CO for the summer, not moving it much there either. So realistically, it is driving it from the dealership initially and then taking it to midwest once a year. There and back.

I know i ll get fried for trying to tow close to max capacity but I believe the truck can handle the weight. I am looking for ways to make it as safe as possible during those very infrequent drives, swinging and breaking wise.

 

TRD rear sway bar

 

Different truck or different trailer. Have you heard of the 80% rule? Best to keep your max payload at 80% of your manufacturer's max payload.

Additionally, you have to factor all those upgrades into your truck's standard payload. As was mentioned by SD Surfer, you are could be close to 1,000 lbs tongue weight. At 1,340 lbs standard payload, you plus one other person will be your max. Start adding weight of bigger tires, bigger alternator (or possibly second), or other upgrades useful for towing like an RAS system, you are easily over your payload.

Safety concerns asides, the legal ramifications involved when you eventually get into an accident will be steeper as well. Try finding a trailer around 5,000-5,500 wet for your current truck.

Edit:

I typed this initial reply before you had responded to SD Surfer. I can appreciate wanting to move into an RV full time, but believe me that you can live in a smaller space than you think (I used to live out of a prius). If you do need the extra space, you need a different truck. Consider switching to a 5.7l as that will bring your standard capacity just shy of 10k. However, the same issues of tongue weight still apply as it is still a half ton frame. The right tool for the job is always the best tool.

 

CURT Weight distribution hitch says it has a sway bar integrated. Or do i better get it separately installed? Thanks

 

I think your engine is one major limiting factor.

 

If you're deadset on that trailer I'd get a more capable truck.

 

2 very different things. Curt's sway bar prevents trailer sway. TRD rear sway bar prevents body roll on the rear end of the truck

 

Thanks! This will be my first trailer so I am trying to gather as much info as possible. According to Tundra website, once you get a tow package on my truck it gives you another 2,000 lbs of towing capacity. Again, from what I ve read there is nothing out there that could not be installed aftermarket if a tow package was not added originally. Considering, that I need to move the trailer only once a year, I thought adding those tow components might help a lot. Also, removing 500 lbs in furniture puts dry weight to 5500 lbs although it doubt it will do much for tongue weight. Alternatively, I keep searching for a lighter trailer in the range you've mentioned.

 

Ya, but your forward storage compartment will easily be filled with 200lbs+ of essential must have equipment.

 

Very useful info. Haven't heard of those. Thanks! Question: doesn't weigh distribution hitch do the same thing? Or air bags?

 

Really wish I got 5.7 back then but had no trailer in mind

 

Doesn't that compartment weight count towards the gross weight of a trailer rather than the truck payload?

 

Yes but adds tongue weight, lot's of tongue weight

 

I'd be very curious to see a link to that website you mentioned to get the details. For the 4.6, I don't think you are getting anywhere over 6,800 regardless of package option. Additionally, my recommendation for weight was not the dry weight, but the "wet" weight or fully loaded.

In terms of trailer alternatives, are you dead set on that particular RV? It is larger than what I would personally go with for my 5.7s. I understand you have pets, but a 2-bedroom option might not be a possibility. Have you looked into single bedroom shut off to the kitchen/living area plans? You could still shut the pets out of your bedroom. Additionally, I saw that you will be in CO for the winter? Many (or close to all) RVs regardless of their advertising, are not really equipped for a CO winter. If you are open to alternative options consider looking into custom RVs.

https://www.hensley-homes.com/

This is a CO couple that converts cargo trailers into year round liveable RVs. With your size truck you'd have to go pretty small, say 8.5x16, but there are some creative floor plans out there if you look into tiny home living.

 

I'm usually the odd guy out in saying you can pull that size trailer with a Tundra, because I do it quite comfortably, but with a better WDH than the Curt, the 5.7, and a longer wheelbase. Gotta agree on the consensus this time. I think it's too much trailer for the 4.6's limited tow capacity. Yes, you can add the aftermarket stuff, and yes, the chassis of the truck can take that weight, but on grades you're going to have a heck of a time.

So, instead of changing trailer selection, why not trade the truck for a 5.7 with an OEM tow package which already has the oil and trans coolers? Or, get into HD, too.

 

I think I might have read it wrong regarding having more tow capacity with factory installed tow package. In the process, I've found a very helpful pdf for the truck specs https://cdn.dealereprocess.org/cdn/brochures/toyota/2014-tundra.pdf

I plan to be in CO for summers only and stay in FL for the rest of the year but a custom made trailer might be an option. I've also considered smaller trailers with open floor plan for master bedroom and a bunk room with a door so pets can have it overnight. There are some in 5000 lbs dry category. I ve had my truck for the last 5 years without a single repair. Hard to give it up. 5.7 will resolve the situation really quickly though

 

How big of a trailer do you tow? I would love to get 5.7 but it is so hard to give up the truck that has been nothing but great to me for the last 5 years without a single repair

 

Wow, I thought my pets were spoiled, yours get their own bedroom?! Oh crap, I just realized our cats have their own room.

Be advised, if you're getting that 672 lb. tongue weight from the web or brochure on that trailer, you need to know that manufacturer's "published" tongue weights are dry weights before anything is added to the trailer, and notoriously optimistic.
Whatever the actual total weight of the trailer, you need a BARE minimum 10% of that to be tongue weight. Could be as much as 15%.
So if it's loaded to 7,000 lbs. (Lbs. add up FAST) and you have 12.5% (middle of the range) of that as tongue weight that's 875 lbs. plus your weight distribution hitch (many of which weigh 80-100 lbs.) you're bumping 1K lbs. and your pets aren't even in the truck yet.

Just as an example, the "advertised" tongue weight of my little Lance is 405 lbs.

When loaded to go camping it's usually between 700-750 lbs.

I do travel with a full fresh water tank, but I've also shaved a lot of weight by switching from conventional to Lithium batteries, and my Andersen WDH is lighter than most.

I don't say this to be disparaging, but I get the feeling you may not have a lot of towing experience yet? Which is absolutely okay, we're all new at some point, but the last thing you want as a newbie is too much trailer trying to push you around.

Don't let my comments discourage you from your dreams, just do your research before pulling the trigger, and try to be realistic in your abilities, your trucks abilities, and your true needs.

Tow for enough miles and someone WILL cut you off and then hit their brakes. They don't know Jack about the 3 tons you're hitched to and they don't care... They just don't wanna' miss their exit.

I've had a few scary moments while towing: stalled car in my lane on the freeway, debris in my lane, mattress, semi tire carcass, a microburst of crosswind outta' nowhere that wiggled us violently.

I've been able to stop, avoid, &/or ride out every scary situation so far by staying calm (when deep inside I just wanted my Mommy) and because my truck/trailer are well match and well within limits.

I feel like some or all of those could've had a real ugly outcome if I'd been towing a 35' trailer.

Be safe and enjoy, the trailer is our happy place.

 

296 model, which is 35' frame at ~8K loaded. Can't give an accurate tongue value since I haven't scaled the truck without a trailer in quite a few years, but it's high, and nowhere near the advertised dry value.

 

No. They just distribute the weight forward along the truck's frame to prevent overloading the rear axle or excessive squat.

Road active suspension would act similarly to a rear sway bar while also reducing squat (which the sway bar won't effect)

 

The biggest issue with your non-tow package, which I'm reasonably certain did not get addressed by the $500 of dealer addons, is the rear axle ratio. I don't think it technically lowers the truck's tow rating, but it will just compound the feeling of lack of power along with the elevation.

 

haha the cats are spoiled for sure. They get zoomies at night. There is absolutely no way to sleep with them in one room plus I like the litter boxes out of the way.

Your pictures look awesome and it looks like you guys are pretty comfy in a smaller trailer. The fact that I ll be RVing full time (stationary in FL) minus a trip to the mountains and back in summers is pushing me towards a bigger trailer or at least one with one of the bedrooms being separate from the rest. I ve found a couple of trailers in 5000 lb dry weight range. I am planning to remove some furniture and I ll definitely will leave a lot of weight behind for that trip to CO. But you are correct. I m new to this and the idea that I am towing to my max capacity and it is 35 ft long...I wish i could test drive something in that category to get a feel for it.

I ve been to over 40 states so far. Many of them on the road..i ve seen a lot on but correct, i ve never had to avoid some debris with something that will potentially and most likely be heavier than my truck. My scientific mind doesn't swallow that idea well. I am looking for a smaller version of 2 beds trailer. If not for the weight but for the length of a trailer.

Enjoy your travels! It looks like you ve figured it out pretty well

 

Considering you have 5.7 it should be at about 80% of your max tow capacity. What WDH do you use? I read many good reviews on CURT and they do have an integrated sway bars as well

 

I am new to this. Trying to get info before I buy anything. I am planning to RV full time in FL (stationary thruout the year) and make a single trip to the mountains. It would be super comfortable to spend most of the year in a bigger space.

I ve been to CO several times, driving from FL but I can't honestly imagine to have something that big behind me...Let's say I ll lighten up a trailer and will have total weight of 6500 lb which is within my tow capacity(Max 6800lb). I cannot leave a part of a trailer behind obviously...will still have to take all 35 ft with me. Will driving super slow on those grades in CO help? Considering i install those items mentioned above?

 

Will lightening up the TT (removing some furniture i don't need) and keeping max weight to 6500 lb (i m very efficient when it comes to keeping it light) whereas my max tow capacity of 6800 lb plus installing most of the items on that list help? With all those items added the weight must feel way better distributed, it should reduce swaying and help the truck to handle that load.

 

I genuinely don’t mean to sound critical, but you keep repeating the same questions over and over about lightening the trailer and enhancing your truck, while some very experienced members on the forum are recommending you reconsider your choices.

I personally only tow the occasional small utility or box trailer with a 3/4 ton, but if ColoradoTJ advised me to not purchase a 35’ trailer, I’d listen. These forum members don’t want to smash your dream - they definitely have your best interests at heart. And they have a lot of experience that they freely give.