AC issue on 2006 tundra Double-cab Limited

The Blower works, hot air blowing since I am in Florida. So, it is not the Heater relay, darn. I did add R134a with stop leak maybe a year ago. The air was cool not real cold until a couple weeks ago. I tried adding more R132a again, but the compressor would not run. I believe the low-pressure switch is on the compressor, right? Can I squeeze a small flat screwdriver on the connector to release it? Which contacts do I jump? If when jumped and compressor clutch does not engage, then the compressor is shot?

I am doing the work. I do have gauges, but doesn't the compressor have to be running?
Does the blinking AC button give any clue?

 

Adding this to your original thread helps not only you but those that may have same problem in future.
Suggest adding this info to original thread and consider deleting this thread.

AC issue on 2006 tundra Double-cab Limited | Toyota Tundra Forum

 

Wait. So you pumped a bunch of coolant into the system without knowing what the low/hi pressures were in advance? That's not good.

Let me ask you this: A/C systems aren't something you just parts-cannon and hope shit works. Over-pressurizing the system can be catastrophically bad. Is there any reason you're not taking this to an HVAC specialty shop (I'd never, in a million years, bring this to a "general" chain shop, this is one time you want to go to a specialist) and have them give you a quote on the problem? They can probably isolate the issue in no time flat, and usually the specialty shops will fix it for far less than other shops that'll throw parts at the problem.

 

Most common problem for no AC is from low pressure or no pressure (leak). The most common leak is in the evaporator in the dash, the two lines are o-ringed and over time those o-rings leak and you lose the freon and when the low pressure switch is triggered, the compressor wont come on. I see it often, people get low on freon and go to the parts store and pump a big can in it and it over pressurizes the system and blows the o-rings out and then you piss all your refrigerant into the air vents and into your cab.

Using jumper wires across relays or whatever to try to get the compressor to kick on, is only going to fry the compressor if you are low on refrigerant or out of refrigerant. The refrigerant has special oils in it that lubricate the compressor and if you are low on refrigerant or out, turning the compressor on somehow can and likely will overheat the rotors in the compressor quickly.

 

Reminds me of lollipop girl (Chuck from Detroit) who started 3 threads for the same issue

 

Yeah, shame they haven’t deleted this one and others have responded here instead of other thread….benefits no one

 

You left out the best part: And then you have the fun task of removing the entire dash in order to get to what you need to replace / replace the evap coil.

I get it. Everyone wants to do it themselves, "DIY all the things". Especially me, I'm an engineer by trade also (systems/cloud/security). I've fixed my own A/C, enough to get it going again. Only to have to take it to a shop anyway, a year or so later, because the compressor ate shit.

I don't mess with A/C anymore. I'll swap the parts, compressor, clutch, valves, o-rings, etc. if there's no coolant in the lines. But I'm always going to take it to a shop to have it evacuated to remove any particles and debris that would kill the system again, and have it recharged. What I've found, though, is just like with driveshaft stuff, even stuff as simple as u-joints, AC is one of those things that, if you can find a reputable shop that will do the diagnostics and waive the fee if you use them for the work, you can usually get out the door at a lower cost taking it to a specialty shop and having them isolate the problem. The hardest part is finding a shop to trust, but in a YELP and Google reviews-driven world, you have a great chance of weeding out the riff-raff, as long as you don't take the inevitable couple of 1-star reviews from people who'd never be satisfied.