AC clutch replacement without removing compressor

Hello all, new member here needing advice/direction. I have searched the site and others for the info that I need but come up empty or missed it. I have what I believe to be a bad compressor clutch on my 2011 5.7 and a new clutch to be delivered via USPS today. I'm accustomed to doing almost all my own work on my vehicles but this will be a first for me. I want to remove and replace my AC clutch without removing the compressor from the vehicle. Is there a thread on here addressing this? Or can someone advise on the practicality of it. I just don't want to have to discharge the system and remove the compressor if I can avoid it. Any help very much appreciated.

 

Just to confirm, is the clutch locked and spinning the compressor all the time or will it not engage?

If the charge is low, it won't engage. Then there is the whole electrical side of diagnoses too.

I pulled the compressor last summer as the compressor seized solid. Clutch was fine and damn strong as engaging it would stall the engine at idle smoking the belt.

Tell us more.

And honestly, if over 200,000 I'd just pull it and replace it. The only hard part was getting the studs out of the block.

You can rent a vacuum pump to pull it down when done. Loaner gauges I might question.

Ask away.

 

The clutch won't engage. It tries but won't lock in on the compressor. I have not checked the compressor to see if it's locked up simply because I am trying to get out as cheap as possible. Also REALLY don't want to take the dash apart to replace the expansion valve unless absolutely necessary. Less than 200K on the truck and the intermittent flashing AC light has been ongoing since last year. 2 weeks ago I lost AC and have a terrible brief noise when the clutch tries to engage. Earlier today I looked online at AC rental tools from my usual parts store and they have everything that I'd need if I replace the compressor. I was just hoping to get an input on getting the clutch off without taking the compressor off.

 

PS I say that as IMO it's too much work to pull the radiator and make room for a puller.

If your truck has the tow package, the condenser won't come out unless you pull the radiator. That said, I'm not sure none tow package condenser will come out the front either. I say this because you need to replace the dryer desiccant in the condenser and it's nearly impossible to do in the truck.

So, it's a pick your battle situation.

 

Welcome to the forum.
There have been a few threads on replacing the clutch cut relay and it fixing the blinking AC light and AC.
My AC has been cutting out for years, something was kicking off the compressor for anywhere from 3 seconds to 10 minutes.
Dealer couldn't fix it because they couldn't replicate the problem.
I finally figured out if I hit a bump in the road the AC compressor would kick back on.
I replaced that relay 2 weeks ago and it hasn't cut out yet (fingers crossed).

You might try replacing your clutch cut relay if you haven't already.
This was the part for my 2014, the relay is in the under-hood fuse box..

A/C Clutch Fan Relay 90987-02028

Amazon.com: A/C Clutch Fan Relay 90987-02028 : Automotive

Good luck.

 

Thanks for the info. That relay was the first thing that I replaced after researching here and other forums and it didn't fix my issue. Granted though, my relay is a $9.90 part from AutoZone and others had posted that it worked for them. I wonder if there is a difference. The OEM part is $90.xx at the stealership.

 

My new clutch was delivered a few minutes ago and I'm about to go out there and scrape my knuckles and cuss for a while.

 

What kind of terrible noise?

The blinking light could mean several things. With my seized compressor, when the AC button was pushed, it would engage the compressor, pull the engine down, AC light would flash and thankfully disengage when at road speed and then repeat until the AC was turned off.

I believe (not fact), the AC light will also flash when the pressure is low.

Two things I would do:
Reach down and spin the compressor (engine off of course). How does it feel?

Put a gauge set on it.

 

Chattering/almost grinding noise but it don't smoke the belt. More info in a few minutes as I'm about to jump on it.

 

Well, I should have checked this before now but with the engine off the clutch turns but has a few places, maybe every 1/8 turn or so, that give resistance to turning yet can still be turned by hand. And with the engine running the pulley that the belt runs on is smooth and silent. When I push the AC button I get momentary chattering as the clutch engages and after about 5 seconds it disengages and will not re-engage unless I turn the AC off and back on again. Should there be any resistance to turning the clutch with the engine off? Bad compressor?

 

Could be many things. The most common is low charge.

Does it pull the engine down? If yes, the compressor is suspect.

Again, knowing the system pressure is key. It could be shutting off from low pressure.

I don't recommend this but as a diagnostic tool you could buy a can of 134 with the crappy gauge on it and see what happens.

 

It does not pull the engine down. I probably have nothing to lose by picking up a can of 134. Somewhere around here I have the gauge assembly from buying that cheap recharge kit a few years ago for another vehicle.....my tractor I think.

 

Anyone have success in replacing just the clutch for the AC without disconnecting the AC compressor lines? Clutch costs $200. Garage wants to charge me $2200 to fix.

 

I replaced the clutch on my 2013 Sequoia 5.7 without pulling the compressor unit or the lines but it didn’t do the trick and I had to replace the full unit just a few days later. The truck had 230k on it when it was done. The clutch job was almost worse than replacing the compressor, which is relatively easy. You can buy a 134 gauge set at Harbor Freight for $65 and I used a Nissens compressor from Rockauto for $225. If you do it yourself make sure you buy the clean 134 cans that do not have stop leak in them. I found a cheap little kitchen scale was useful in getting the exact charge in since it uses only a partial can at the end. There are a few good videos on YT out there for reference.