A little confusion here

So, here’s the problem I have. Initially, when I bought my truck, I’ve had this sputtering start after I have driven a reasonable distance. I’ve come to realize that it is more prone to happen in hot weather. So basically, hot motor equals rough start.

I would also like to mention that there is a very minor and inconsistent idle. You could barely tell unless you rest your knee or arm on the door. 100% certain I am feeling off tempo vibrations.

Currently at 123k miles and timing belt was changed at 70k.

I’ve changed out or provided maintenance for the following:
*Fuel Injectors (Dirty Deeds)
*Fuel Filter
*Cleaned MAF sensor
*Pcv valve
*Cleaned air intake
*Ran about 4 bottles of seafoam
*Recent spark plugs about 7k ago. I made sure that the spacing on the contactors were exact.
*Air filter

So yeah. Next I’m checking for faulty coil pacs.

Thing I’m confused about is that I changed out my injectors, but after that I did not experience that rough start at all up until yesterday. It’s been months since I replaced them. Before that it would happen about everyday after work.

I’ve checked for gasoline leaks and concluded there aren’t any. I was a little skeptical about the quality of my fuel injector swap, but things appear fine.

One more thing I will add is that I’ve gone around looking at my air lines. Each one is connected properly and look very youthful without any cracking or weathering.
Any ideas or thoughts are appreciated.

 

I've seen speculation about failing or faulty fuel pump relay causing weird/intermittent warm-engine results, including long-crank start, failure to start entirely, but never necessarily rough idle. I guess testing relays is easy enough, or just swapping the fuel pump relay entirely could be cheap enough, but my gut is telling me it likely isn't the case. I'd probably do it for shits n giggles.

You can test out MAF with multimeter easy enough, just to make sure it's working properly.

I'm not sure how to test the throttle body/its assembly/its sensors on the cable-driven trucks, but I'd probably dig into that too. Sure testing details are in the FSM.

 

I bought a Denso fuel pump relay right now. I’ll see if that works. Thanks.

 

Do you mind guiding me through testing the MAF? I’m electronically stupid haha. I have my multimeter in front of me ready to go though.

 

There's a link to the field service manual in my signature. Two of them actually.

If you're on mobile, turn your phone sideways to see the signature. You'll have to use the important documents spoiler button because mobile.

 

Awesome, you rock.

IIRC, as with many sensors, you're measuring for resistance. FSM gives the range to expect, conditions for test, etc.

First thing I did when I first came here, long before joining, was download the FSM for my '06. Super handy to have around.

 

Once I swapped my spark plugs (purchased online) for new ones. And they sucked. Idled funny, didn’t run great at speed and took a long time to crank sometimes. Swapped them for OEM coppers from the parts store and she purred like a kitten. The fake plugs are out there…..

 

I printed most of the manual at work

 

This is actually a really good point. @Beefnbread where'd you score those plugs at?

 

It was all gmo/gluten free recycled paper, recycle, reduce, reuse, Rihanna

 

+1

I've also had experience with counterfeit OEM iridium plugs purchased from Amazon. They even came in Toyota/Lexus packaging. They worked OK for a while, but then started misfiring. Upon removal and inspection, the electrodes were practically gone, and the gap was HUGE. I swapped them with a legit set from Rock Auto (NGK or Denso... can't remember which. But both brands are listed as OEM in the manual.)

@Beefnbread Where did you get your plugs? What brand? Did you replace them at the same time as your injectors?

 

The offending plugs I had were NGK iridium’s from big gurl. At least they were supposed to be. I even tried to regap them to no avail.

 

I've shared this several times but I almost killed our RAV4 with counterfeit Denso plugs.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/counterfeit-denso-spark-plugs.64225/

 

I always shake my head when I read this. And the counterfeits don't stop at spark plugs, it's every damn thing. For the life of me, I don't know why anyone orders any part of importance off that shithole. This issue has been going on for years and it won't be stopping any time soon, it's only gotten worse. It doesn't matter who you order from, unless you know 100% it's being drop-shipped and not routing through a scAmazon warehouse, because scAmazon mixes all the inventory indiscriminately at the warehouses. It'll take a class action lawsuit of people who've had this happen in order to force scAmazon to start inspecting all items coming into their warehouses, and it's bullshit things need to go that far just to get a vendor to own up to their problems.

 

Here a pic from the incident I referred to above. These plugs are from my wife's Prius. While it is a hybrid, the engine is the typical Toyota 1.8 liter inline 4. It takes Iridium plugs that are good for 120K miles. The plugs I removed had about 110K miles on the and the iridium tip looked brand new. If you know iridium plugs, you know the electrode is tiny and comes to a sharp point. That's what these plugs looked like when I installed them. Here's what they looked like after 20K miles. (and causing severe multiple misfires.) Look at that second one from the top. The electrode is almost gone!

 

Well I know not to now but prior to this I had been a happy eBay shopper for a decade with very few issues. I wasn't ordering vehicle parts though.

There was also nothing to indicate these were fake which is what makes it scary.

I won't even order from Amazon now either.

 

I think I installed some platinum spark plugs from auto zone. I can’t recall the brand.
Oh, and I did not replace them while I did the injectors.

 

Thanks, I’ll get on it tonight.

 

I still order from them sometimes. Key is, only order crap that won't hurt if it's fake, like throwaway eyeglasses, charging cables, yard supplies. etc. Or anything Amazon-branded (or associated brands like Ring) b/c they damn sure make certain their own products don't get knocked off, they just DGAF about anyone else's stuff.

In a pinch, I've ordered name brands during 2021-22, 20% or more, I get BS product. Looking over my order history the last 12 months, these were posted as "OEM/Genuine" but totally weren't:

• 10pk Shimano shift cables (box was cleverly faked, wrong trademark font, product wrapped differently from the box I was low on)
• Frigidaire 241685703 water dispenser replacement arm (non-OEM packaging, inferior part)
• Drawer slide spacers (poorly 3d-printed knockoffs)
• Acer Chromebook power supply (part label devoid of any OEM markings)
• Legrand SA399GRYCC10 replacement end plug (got 2 poor counterfeits
• Frigidaire 318241006 Halogen Lamp (white-boxed, no branding, part didn't even fit correctly)
  
• Hanes 5pk boxer-briefs (two of the 5pr were clearly "seconds" at full retail price)

I double-checked either against legitimate products I had on hand, or compared to the replacements I ordered after realizing "it happened again".

It's sad. Sorry OP, just realized I'm ranting and this has jack to do with your post. If nothing else, here's a reply to bump your issue to the top!

 

Isn't there a service letter out for this issue and it's a faulty cam timing sensor?

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...UQFnoECA8QAQ&usg=AOvVaw0mj2K2T5ce82MFaSqXxdfL

 

I have a 2000 and that one says it’s applicable on 2005-2006 Tundras. Not sure if there’s even a difference though Tbh.

 

Your 2000 does not have the VVTi that the 2005-2006’s have.