6-7" lift questions

Anyone here running a 6-7" lift?

I'm considering it but don't want to ruin my truck. I know the more lift you get the more it changes your suspension geometry and things need to be installed to prevent damage to your truck like a diff drop space (which I already have) and traction bars. I am after functionality for off roading, not looks. I am not mall crawling. I've always heard 2-3" lift is best.

What do I need to be aware of when I lift my truck 6-7" ?
What other parts do I need to make sure to get installed to prevent damage to my truck while off roading with a 6-7" lift ?

https://bds-suspension.com/product?kid=818F

 

lots of people have 6-7" lifts. I used to on my last one. This one is stock for now. If I was to go with a 7" kit this time I would probably use the BDS. Or do a Pro Comp kit(stage 1) again and just swap out the shocks and UCA to Icon(make sure you select the right one for this application), Leaf springs to either Icon or Deaver and go with Coach builder shackles.

My truck doesn't go offroad though since I don't have atv's anymore. It hauls the family to soccer tournaments and me to work. So realistically I will probably go with a 2-3" kit either Ironman or OME BP-51.

You don't necessarily need trac bars. I think there are only two companies that make them. BDS and SDHQ. I have heard about another one but that is for lowered applications.

Good luck with your decision.

 

I wheel my truck pretty hard on a 7” BDS. The lift itself never gave me any problems with CV axles, alignment or wheel bearings.

These lifts require the front crossmembers to be cut and replaced with dropped crossmembers. Once you cut it’s hard to go back to stock.

One tip I have for you would be to get the Skyjacker block delete leaf springs. Just as it sounds you’ll be able to get rid of the 4” block. I went through several leaf springs before figuring this out.

When you get rock sliders make sure to get braces welded on to support the front and rear ends of the sliders. Check out my build thread and you’ll see I bent mine. Weight of the truck plus the extra height means all that weight could come down hard on the sliders.

 

Since this thread is up here. This is the setup I'm looking at getting. Anything wrong with it?




The only reason I went with 4.5 is to get the fox shocks. I don't know much about larger lifts but if it's possible to get fox or icon shocks on a 6" lift then I would like to go that route. My runner could only go 3" higher so it was simpler to lift.

 

I have the 7” BDS. Love it. Rock solid. Had it 4 years now. This past Jan, replaced the 4” blocks with OME leafs & Coachbuilder shackles. No need for traction bars when you forgo the blocks (from what I understand…someone correct me if I’m wrong). When I paid attention, I noticed slight axle-wrap shudder when I stomped on the pedal when I had blocks. I don’t notice it anymore. IMO, traction bars aren’t necessary unless you’re gonna supercharge it. (Then again, I’m running heavy 37s. If you had a lighter tire, may be better with traction bars if you stick with blocks.)

I stayed with OEM UCAs - didn’t need to change them for alignment, and I don’t need long travel. I did swap out the crappy (CRAPPY) BDS tie rod ends with Coachbuilder tie rod ends (steering kit). They’re MUCH beefier and gave me incredible turning radius & better alignment. My first set of BDS tie rod ends only lasted a couple years before they were toast (no off-roading).

I’m running 37s. BMC was a must. No biggie. Relentless Off-road Fabrication plates were great.

Carrier bearing drop is needed, and can be purchased with lift.

If you go BDS, only thing I’d say, is have someone reputable do the install. They’re gonna be chopping the crossmember (as someone else already stated). You’ll want them to do a good job. Also find someone who does alignments well. Anyone can turn a dial to get the numbers green. Find someone who actually can customize and tweak for your truck & lift/setup. I had a hard time with alignments (dealership & 2 other shops) until I found a dude who really knew his stuff. I’m straight as an arrow now.

 

you can get the BDS 7” lift w/ Fox coil overs, too.

 

Didn't mean to thread jack, I'm going to go with the BDS 7" and find someone local to do it. A buddy of mine did his by himself and said we could handle it but now I'm thinking not.

 

Be advised, That installing a 6 or 7 inch lift on your Tundra will probably change you as a person and your truck will never ride the same. Lol, good luck

 

I second this.

I can't fit in the garage anymore either. The only part that sucks lol

 

Lol I got lucky, I can still fit in the garage, 1/2 inch to spare.

 

As the picture shows, washing a lifted truck is a little bit challenging. Don't even start on driving under canopies, handling, up and down, lots of fun, but also lots of challenges.

 

Only lifted mine bout 3", also have BDS traction bars, definitely a good investment to preserve your springs and u joints. Plus you can get on it and tug a load behind you if you want with confidence.

 

This is my only experience with a lifted truck, so I have nothing to compare it to. I've heard others say they don't like lifts cause it's erratic/doesn't handle well/makes highway driving stressful. I haven't experienced that at all. I don't know if it's BDS, or my installer, or just dumb luck, but this thing is solid.

 

I have a 7 inch pro comp lift. rides great and good. I would do it again in a heartbeat.

 

Blocks, springs, shackles, or a combination in the rear?

 

If you are really going to off road it you'll want an anti wrap bar with the blocks, or go with the +4" rear springs. I guess the BDS traction bars would suffice, but you can get 4" springs for $750 too.

The lifts that are available in 4.5" and 6/7/8" like the BDS, Readylift, or Rough Country use the same parts between their two options. The bracketry is 4.5" lift and that's sold as one option. Then they also sell the same thing with a taller spring to boost it up to 6 or 7" as another option. The 4.5" kits are supposed to have suspension geometry and CV axle angles that is identical to factory.

You can use whatever 4.5" or 6" coilover/strut you want, the brand of the bracket lift kit doesnt matter.

 

BDS is a great kit. Echoing what a lot of others have said

- replace 4" rear block with new leaf pack and coachbuilder shackles. I went with the OME Dakar with +2 shackles. Energy suspension PU bushings while you're in there.
- SPC UCA work well with this kit and give me a good alignment. Others say not needed, but for most it is. Good alignment tech is key.
- replace BDS tie rods with the coachbuilder set.
- 37s get a body mount chop
- with the BDS knuckle and CB tie rods, 0 to +18mm is the sweet spot for wheels, if its for offroading (18" methods and icons, fuel is trash)
- CB carrier bearing spacer

Some things to consider
- with this kit, you lose easy access to your steering rack. If you're planning on 37s, you might want to go ahead and replace the rubber OEM bushings with some energy suspension PU bushings, before they wear out. I have to drop my entire lift this year to replace these.
- might want to consider replacing UCA and LCA bushings with some heavy duty PU while you're in there. I have to replace all mine after the fact, again requiring complete disassembly of the lift. You can assemble this lift once and never have to touch it again.

 

blocks in the back and fire tone air bags when I’m towing… I still have factory shocks I was able to use with the lift kit. I’ll probably switch to some coil overs once these wear out.

 

Thanks everyone for your input. I went with this kit : 2.5" of lift all around, lifts rear with new leaf pack. I did not want to lift my rear with blocks. Got the SPC UCAs with it as well. Hoping I will be able to fit 35s with factory wheels w/ +50 offset?! I have plenty clearance in the front with ARB bumper. I know it may be close. Anyone feel free to chime in lol
Cheers!

 

You chickened out on the 6 inch!! Lol, just kidding, But yes I think you will rub..

 

Can someone help me piece together a 6"-7" lift for my tundra in about the 6k range. I'd like it to be solid with either fox or icon shocks in the front and rear. I've pieced some kits together already but am unsure what I actually need and what I don't. Won't be doing any extreme off roading just some light off roading occasionally and road trips with the family. I have a 2017 1794 edition. Plans to get 34" tires when these wear out.

 

@Bigboitundra how much modification is needed to get coilovers in the back?

 

Not certain about yours, but I read stock rims are +60, I have SPC UCA's and +60 rims, 3.5" lift, tried to order 285/75 18 today but back ordered. Anyway they are close to 35, and won't know if they are going to fit until actually mounted. It's really close on the UCA clearance. Will see here about August when they arrive. I think the problem might be the sidewall as it bulges a bit wider than the tread area. Just saying if you have +60 rims it might be a tight squeeze on 35s with SPC UCA's. Certainly can't fit any 35x12.50 here.

 

AGREED!

 

What wheel wells do you have?
Are those 37s?

 

Bushwacker DRT flares and 37x 13.5 Nitto Ridge Grapplers.

 

Dam I need to wear out my 35s all ready. I need 37s. You looks good man

 

I had 35's M/T before but wore them out to get 37's. Looks alot better when having a 7" lift.

 

Yep I have 7 inch pro comp lift on 35-12.50-20. They are toyo r/t. I have 40k miles and they still look really good probably until 60k very impressed.

do you have factory front bumper still with the 37s?

 

With those 13.5 wheels, you could go up to 38" Ridge Grapplers if you want. I was thinking about it (I have 37" RGs, too), but my wheels are 12.5 & they don't make them for 12.5. boo