5100's on 1st gen. Couple questions and anything else I should do?

I'm planning to do Bilstein 5100's all around on my '05 double cab. I'm wondering if there's anything else I should do as preventative measure while I'm working on it.

From what I gather, the 5100's max height setting on double cab 4x4's is 1.6" of lift. The rears have up to 1" of adjustment. If I want to achieve a nicely levelled look or at least minimal rake, should I leave the rears at stock height or will I be putting them at the 1" mark?

It doesn't sound like I'll need a diff drop kit or UCA's at this point since I'm not going for a large lift.

While I've got things apart, I'm going to replace the lower ball joints with Moog greasable ones. Is there anything else I should upgrade since I'm going to have the front end in the air? Tie rod ends etc?

 

Just had 5100’s put on by garage and did the fronts at the first notch up from stock (1”?). Thought the rears were not ajustable, but it seems like I got a bit of lift in the back (1”? also?) maybe because these are longer/taller than previous? Not sure of all the exact measurements because I did not take before and after measurings.

Bottom line net is the truck is definitely higher by about an 1” on all fours. I still have a higher back to front lower rake like before which I like. Not a ‘level’ fan and like a small rake. If I could tweak it I’d go one more notch up on the front and be almost level but still have rake? Not sure because its done already and I like it, but it would be cool to see the differences in 1 more notch up (equals 1/2”? more?).

The ride is tight and firm. Towing is nice and firm and reponsive. Seems like the rear barely dips with weight and my trailer sits higher at the tounge than it did. Stock original rear leafs still. Had to staighten the rear leafs last week on the driver side and put u-bolts on both sides of each spring. They were a little splayed and I think the new shocks effected them a bit on drivers side. The u-bolts keep things tight in the rear now and not ‘slippy’ when hitting bumps at speed turns.

Very pleased overall as the handling is tighter now than ever. A bit firm in places (I like the old Cadillac softness but not the turn/tow handling that goes with that softness).

 

Good to hear. I'm going to go out right now and check my leafs. I seem to remember them being a bit splayed. Pics to follow. LOL

 

They look ok except the back of the driver's side. Do I just put a u-bolt over these told get them back into place?

 

Yeah. My advice is square the leafs and u-bolt them first, and then do the shocks and lower ball joint. You may not need the tie rods, but if you do them do them before your alignment.

If you do u-bolt the leafs do not tighten the clamps all the way down like I did as it seemed to keep the leafs from spreading length wise and gave it a rough ride. I loosened them up and the ride got better. Cut the extra length off the long bolts threads and then put a notch cut up the bolt so the nut will not come off. Also, used some flexible adhesive on the top of the u-joint to hold it in place on the leaf and keep from sliding down the leaf. The bottom of the clamp is not caulked and allows the leafs to stretch and slide on each other.

 

My passenger side was slightly splayed and the u-bolt was still able to bridge over the difference on the ends where I wanted them. Drivers side I had to jack up the chasis and play the leverage game while using homemade clamps out of metal plates on straight bolts on each end. Tightened each end a bit at a time alternating with each movement of leaf. Slow, but it worked. Got it to where the u-joint would fit like the passenger side did with ease.

 

The rears aren’t adjustable and won’t add any lift. The 1.6” notch on the front should level out the truck perfectly without touching the rear. If you tow or haul heavy loads then the rear will obviously sag and give you a “bro lean”. If you want a little lift for the rear after lifting the front then an aal would be your best option.

 

This was not my experience on the 02’. My trailer tounge used to sit almost level when hooked up. Now the rear end is slightly higher and trailer dips backward a bit now. Not dangerous levels, but its definitely different. Maybe 1” higher? I realize every situation is different and my old shocks (after markets - after the original Bistiens off roads on new truck) shocks may have been shorter, or the new Bilstien 5100’s (rears) are taller?

I have to crank the trailer tounge higher to get on hitch ball. Should have taken measurement pre and post but did not. I’m definitely higher all the way around.

 

Shocks don’t provide lift, springs(coil or leaf) do.

 

I get it completely and have heard it said on this forum many times. I’m wondering why my truck is higher in the back now. My trailer has to be cranked higher to get it on the ball. Trailer now sits ‘bro lean’ compared to level when hooked. Not arguing, but its definitely higher in the back. Nothing was done except new shocks. Its higher in the front too due to the second from bottom adjustment setting.

My mind set was getting the truck near level with the new shocks assuming a 1” lift in front and back remaining same. The net effect after it was done is 1” lift on all four corners. It still has the same forward rake, but just higher lift. I like it and I am pleased overall.

 

Could the realignment or straightening of your leaf springs account for the added height?

 

Alignment adding height? Not sure. The added height was there before straightening leafs.

 

Hi all! I know I'm a little late to the party but I just put 5100s on my 02 tundra and i got 1" of lift on it. The reason being is the orginal shocks were so worn out that the leafs were the only thing holding the rear up. Shocks literally collapsed when I unbolted them. Had 174,000 miles on them. Maybe that has something to do with the lift u spoke of in your ride??

 

Thanks for the feedback.