37s with stock gears

I have a 2015 1794 tundra and it is lifted 4 inches with 35s right now and no problems. I tow and drove on the highway a lot and I really enjoy how it drives. How much different would the 37s be and would I still be able to tow like I do with the 35s (within some reason). I need some honest options not just people saying you really need too because I saw the same thing for 35s and I’m happy with how it drives. I have a bully dog tune and a cold air intake.

 

I can't be the only hold out on here.

My comments copypasta from one of the many threads on this topic:


I'm on 37's (4.30gears) and regularly commute 350mi one way with 400-500lbs of gear/ tools/ materials in my bed.

I've been doing this for nearly 20k miles with no ill effects. Currently at 117k mi on odometer.

YMMV.....

Edit : I run with all the nannies turned off.
Search " beast mode" on here

 

I think there was a recent thread today that talked about 37's with a lift and regearing to 4.88's. I think they said it dramatically improved the power and feel of the truck and significantly improved gas mileage with that setup.

 

Your going to get a very broad amount of answers to this. What's funny is the guys that didn't regear well tell you that it's fine, while the guys that have regeared (like myself) will tell you that it was worth it and brought back the feeling of stock power. The only way to really feel the difference is to get in one that's stock and one that isn't. There's a video somewhere of one stock, one supercharged and stock gearing and one that's regeared.... the regeared nonsupercharged one beat them all..... clearly there is a difference.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/4-88-gears-installed.14396/

 

Join us.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/dirty-seven-club.40397/

 

My 5.7 crewmax with only exhaust used to smoke supercharged 5.7’ s with big tires. Until the supercharged guys regeared. It’s a big difference.

 

Our trucks use a very sophisticated method of determining ‘load’ against the engine.

When you artificially change the mathematical equation by adding bigger tires, what looks like less wheel speed, what is more throttle position. And what is less rpm. You make the ecu run a different load table that what would otherwise be run without the larger tires.

this load table has way less timing. And way more fuel in the fuel curve. Adding fuel, and removing tuning is the opposite of what you want to do to make power.

I’ve found a loss of 40hp and .2 seconds in the 1/8 mile just going up .5” bigger than stock.

bit to mention the way the truck won’t hold gears. Unlocks the torque converter. And you constantly have to step on the gas way more in every circumstance.

 

If you're on here asking about it, you're already worried about it...

I bought my truck with stock gears and 37s. I drove it a couple of long interstate trips and said never again, with the slightest hill or breeze it was downshifting to 4th, and almost never getting into 6th. 5.29's now and it performs like my other stock tire/gear tundra on the interstate again.

 

37s need 5.29 gears- it would be awful in my opinion for any highway driving, towing, hauling.

I was able to tell a difference moving from stock TRD OR tires up to 275/70-18s, the larger tires, e load and heavier weight was/is noticeable. It is livable with 33inchers. I think even 34inch tires would be ok, but there are tradeoffs. Add the weight of 37s and the even higher reduction of gearing and the truck would be a lazy dog for anything other than around the town errands.

 

I'm on 35's with stock gearing.
It's definitely noticeable, but certainly driveable and tolerable.

That said... I wouldn't want it any worse... so I will forever be on 35's. If I ever decide to make the jump to 37's, I will budget for a set of 5.29's too.

I'm hoping HP Tuners releases support for 2020's soon... as I think much of the laziness can be worked out with some throttle tuning and shift point changes.