315 without BMC (Help)

Hello all, new Tundra owner here.

I bought a 2020 Tundra SR5 after trading out of my second Gen2 Raptor about 3 weeks ago and haven’t looked back.

Upgrades so far

• Fox 2.5 Coil Overs w/ DSC
• Fox 2.5’s on the rear
• Camburg UCA’s
  
• Method NV 305 (17x8.5) zero offset
• Mickey Thompson 315 70 17

Here’s my issue.

I got about 3-1/2” of lift after installing the coil overs out of the box. I was hoping to have minimal rubbing, but that isn’t the case.

I’d like to stick with the 315’s if possible and I’ve watched quite a few videos on how to do a BMC and have considered it, but there isn’t a shop in my area that I really trust to do it. I might try to do it myself, but want to exhaust all other options before I go that route.

Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated on either how to get around doing a BMC with the 315’s (if there are any) or what tire size I might need to go with to not rub. Or if I were to do the BMC, can someone tell me how much to cut off, so I don’t go too far?


Day of purchase


After suspension install










Removed the mud flaps hoping that would help

 

I bought a heat gun from harbor freight and heated up the plastic wheel well lining where the tire was rubbing, then beat it back with a plastic mallet, also from harbor freight. If its rubbing the actual body mount then you'll have to do a BMC to correct the issue.

 

You can take the bolts out from under the front liner and move it up about 3/4" then redrill one hole, take a heat gun and reform the bottom a little more then that will fix that, for the back take the mud flap off turn your wheel and it will give you an idea where to start, i started end the back side of the round body mount.

 

Yo iv got 315/70r17s and all I had to do was buy shims for the front bumper and push it out half an inch. Zero running now. Wheel offset is +25 though

 

You’d have to show us where it rubs? Does it happen driving forward, or only at full lock in reverse? A hint that helps a lot of people with big tires on 3rd gens is to get caster to ~ +4, as far forward as your alignment shop can do. It’ll drive good, look good, and may fix running at the cab mount IF it’s at the back of the tire....

 

Also im assuming you've already had an alignment done? If so what castor did you get or request? Between 4-5 castor with an aftermarket UCA like you have can help with alot of the rub too if it's on the body mount

**Edit** I don't know how I missed your above post @Sunnier

 

Mine has 285/75/18 on 25offset. 3" king extended travel lift with SPC upper arms.
I had rubbing in reverse on the mud flaps. In forward i had rubbing on the Bumper liner. I moved the bumper liner screws farther forward and heat gun reformed the liner and cut some off. They make a bumper spacer kit That pushes the bumper out .5" i shouod have gotten before
I ruined my bumper liners.

 

Thanks everyone for the advise, I got tied up and wasn’t able to check this the past week or so. I went ahead and bought a set of 285/70-17’s, they run good so far. As for the rubbing, it was rubbing in the back when I would drive forward and in reverse, I only had about half turning radius. Got annoying really quick.

Thanks again!

 

As of right now my bm is chopped but not back plated yet my fabricator buddy won't take on the job yet due to covid 19 his boy has a heart condition poor kid but you can cut if for now and run it i just hit it back with paint so it won't rust for now.

 

You can buy the plates and they should come with a template or use the plate to mark where to cut and weld