2022+ Tundra Battery Swap

Just swapped a high capacity AGM battery in my 2023 SR model Tundra. I put in a BatteriesPlus X2 power (same as a red Odyssey). The group size is 94R. Most auto parts sites list the older body style Tundra size which is incorrect. The only tools needed to swap is a 10 and 12mm socket. There are two small brackets to remove and a wire clip on the negative terminal. Don’t forget to remove the negative first so you don’t arc when removing the positive post. New battery is about 5lbs heavier than the old one (55 vs 50ish lbs). AGM batteries are nice they don’t require topping up each cell with fluid and no chance of leaking or outgassing that corrodes terminals primarily with regular flooded batteries.

 

I’m sure that’s a good placement for weight distribution, but I bet that wasn’t a pleasant lift over the fender to get it back in there.

 

You need to be tall and strong to lift it out it’s awkward where it’s located FYI

 

Is that rated for the start stop system ?

 

It’s an AGM with about about 10 percent more Ah and 12 percent more CCA over the factory. Assuming the factory generic battery numbers are true. Most cars with start stop use an AGM and high output starter from the factory. The factory uses flooded batteries and it works fine. So in short, anything equal to or better than factory should suffice.

 

Just curious if your oe battery died?

 

Naw, just wanted an upgrade. I had flooded acid batteries. On my 2018 Taco it caused corroded terminals and dripped on the battery hold down bracket making a mess. Also figured I’d be the Guinea pig since there seems to be no information online about the batteries for 3rd gens yet.

 

My sailboat's battery charger has a different setting for AGM verses Lead Acid batteries. Apparently these two types of batteries have different charging profiles. I don't expect there is a setting in your truck to tell it you're using an AGM. I wonder if the default charge profile is going to kill your AGM battery before it's time? Or it may not charge it up to its full capacity.

 

Is there any space

AGM’s are a known quantity at this point in vehicle use and have proven themselves to be quite reliable. I wouldn’t worry about it.

 

What is the model number of that battery?

 

Toyota is 395LN4-ISS. The BatteriesPlus X2 power is SLI94RAGMDP.

 

Pretty much anything made in the last 25 years won’t care if it’s flooded or AGM profiles are close for resting voltage. If you use a GEL cell or lithium they have different charged voltages.

 

I know it will likely work okay but battery manufacturers seem to indicate that a special charger is needed. The following is from Interstate Battery:

AGM batteries can absorb more current than a regular car battery, which is why they can recharge faster. It takes time to charge regular batteries. They need slow, low-amp charging to prevent overheating — and they need more volts to push through their internal resistance.

AGM batteries don’t have nearly as much internal resistance, which is how they absorb 30, 40, even 50 amps at a time instead of a regular battery getting stressed out at more than 10 amps.

This is also why an AGM battery needs special charging.

Regular battery charging can break AGM batteries. Regular batteries need 15-17 volts to get the same amps. However, voltage greater than 15 volts can overheat an AGM and generate enough pressure to pop its safety valve. That one-way valve is supposed to relieve excess pressure from the harmless gases that come when a battery’s charging. Too much voltage becomes too much pressure, and pop. Without an airtight seal, an AGM will dry out in hours.

 

Just checked on Lithium, Anti-Gravity doesn't have them for 22+ yet, but the ones for 2000-2021 are $949-$1049, have one on the Harley now for 6 yrs, haven't had a problem. They have an emergency built in jump start built in. Once my battery on the truck goes, that's what I sill probably go with.

 

Cool. My truck is 2 years old this month so looking at a battery upgrade ain’t a bad idea for the next year or two

 

Their doing this in the fork lift industry now too. Problem is it takes a specific charger for that brand. Toyota just put their name on a brand then there is another brand called Flux Power and you guessed it another charger just for that brand. All have there own software and cable/dongle for $$$. Lead acid cost under $5k lithium ion $10k and have steel plates to make up the lack of weight.

*Four control modules in this pic as the battery is divided into four separate batteries.
The odysee battery will be my choice when it comes time.

 

Not sure how Toyota handles it , but on my 2019 Superduty Powerstroke, dual batteries and two alternators, dealer when in and changed charging profile to AGM batteries. Ford has a different charging rate for AGM vs “wet” batteries.

 

If your Tundra has start/stop then you are fine on charging and using an AGM. Thanks OP for figuring out a good group size, 94R. I really want to fit a Group 31 as it has 100AH to last longer when I’m off grid vs a dual battery set up. The Group 31 though is 2” taller and I haven’t found an R variant so far for the x2.

But again great post

 

Did you have to pair the battery through techstream?

 

I've been researching Dakota Lithium. They sell a power monitor and a charge converter to allow your alternator to properly charge a lithium battery. They offer a 100AH battery that weighs about half the weight of the stock battery, which is that much more food and water I can carry for the same fuel consumption when traveling.
Plus Dakota Lithium has a nice military discount program and is a PNW company.
It's spendy, but lithium seems like the best option on the market.

 

https://dakotalithium.com/product/d...ar-truck-battery-plus-deep-cycle-performance/

10000cca and 135AH.

This might be the ticket. I'll have to measure the stock battery compartment and see how this matches up

 

It’s actually smaller than stock for L and W, it’s a little taller but even has the positive terminal on the right. Just have to cough up $1189. Batteriesplus.com has a group 94R Duracell AGM with basically the same specs as the x2 for $250. Granted 80ah vs 135ah

https://www.batteriesplus.com/product-details/auto_light-truck/battery/duracell-ultra/sli94ragm

 

The X2 is 840 CCA and 81AH. X2 is same as an Odyssey or Northstar battery. Cranking amps is usually higher than what the “rate” them for. Be careful with lithium “peak” numbers in very cold weather they perform much less than traditional lead based batteries.

 

$1189 plus $199 of the DC/DC charging adapter.

https://dakotalithium.com/product/c...on-tr-smart-12-12-18a-isolated-dc-dc-charger/

That said, you're getting an 11 year warranty and shedding about 25 pounds.

It's definitely a large investment, but over time and depending on how you use your truck, it might make sense.

I ran a Odessy and a Cascadia 4x4 hood mounted solar panel in my last overlanding build and it did great, but I only got aboutWith the fuel economy and tank size of the GX470, I got real conscious about weight just to extend range. With how easy it is to turn these rigs into absolute pigs, I'm always looking for somewhere to shave weight that doesn't hinder performance.

 

I'm not sure but their specs say it comes with a charger and lists max alternator outputs.

"PEAK / CONTINUOUS CHARGE
Recommend for longest life 70A or less (.5C), Peak charge acceptance 165A max for one minute, 200A max BMS cutoff. Max continuous 135A (1C). 14.4V recommended, 15V max, BMS protection from over charging will cut off at 15V. Included is a free 12V 10 Amp (A) LiFePO4 compatible charger that charges at the recommended 14.4 Volts..

MAX CHARGE / ALTERNATOR SIZE
Peak charge acceptance 165A max for one minute, 200A max BMS cutoff. Drop in replacement for lead acid and AGM starter batteries for vehicles. Limited to a max alternator size of 150 amps or less per battery (link multiple batteries in parallel for alternators >150 Amps)."

 

The charging adapter is showing wired with a dual battery set up?

 

Interesting.

I need to call them. Maybe the charger is for their batteries that aren't rated as starting capable.

 

AGM batteries need a higher output alternator (14.6V). Our Tundras generally put out around 13.25V, although it fluctuates under various driving conditions. This is a known issue and it is why the engineers put a flooded lead acid batter in the truck from the factory. The Toyota engineers prefer to run their electrical systems at a lower voltage, for reliability we presume. Our alternator will not fully charge or maintain an AGM battery unless you plug a diode into the fuse box to absorb load and trick the alternator into producing more voltage at a constant rate. Even then, it only averages around 14V, which is still not quite enough.

 

I know my truck idles at 14.4v, has anyone measured it while driving with a meter?

My Dometic fridge connects to my phone so I can monitor temperature and voltage, and it is always 14.3-14.5v while driving when I check.