2019 Tundra 4x4 Differential Question

Hello, Everyone.

I am not mechanically inclined...at all. I change my own oil and that's it. I have been thinking about tackling the differentials and transfer case myself. I have everything I need, but in watching some videos online, I do have two concerns.

First: The videos say the truck has to be level. If I am parked on a level smooth concrete slab, will that suffice because I don't own a jack or stands.

Second: I have read and saw several cases of the front differential fill screw being on so tight that it strips while trying to get it off. How common is that from the factory? I am wondering if the ones that are overtightened are because someone has done a change already and overtightened. Or does this happen a lot from factory?

Thanks for the help.

 

I wouldn’t worry about anything being too tight so long as you’re using the proper tools. A concrete slab should be just fine - that’s what I have to use. I recommend using a transfer pump for the front diff and t-case fills.

how many miles on your truck? Absent deep water crossings - the t-case fluid should last at least twice as long as the diff fluid.

 

Changing diff fluid is super easy. The most important thing to remember when breaking the plugs loose is to just do 1 fast push to break it loose. If you push on them slowly, that's how they strip out.

 

If you can change your oil, you can do it. Like someone said open the fill plug first to make sure you will be able to fill it back up. Just did mine last weekend. Front diff fill was on the tightest of all of them, and the hardest to get to. Other than that, it's pretty easy. Get a transfer pump if you can, don't dick around with the manual pump.

 

I am currently sitting at 40,230 miles on the clock.

 

If you haven't been underneath to investigate access, etc. then just know that the front differential fill plug is a bit awkward to access. I have a smallish cordless impact gun that I use to remove the front diff. fill plug (when you use a tool like that you must be sure to have 100% positive engagement of your "socket.")

Have your clean up supplies close by as the re-fill process is to certainly fill it back up until oil runs out of the fill hole.

Oh. And know this. When you pull the drain plug on the rear diff and "let 'er rip" the gear oil aroma/smell/STENCH will clear the adjacent county. You've been warned.

 

Watch out when you tighten up the drain & fill bolts. They'll likely be oily which means they'll be easy to over-torque and strip. I usually go with German Spec "gud-n-tight" rather than religiously following the factory torque spec.

 

I have purchased a torque wrench...that should keep me good, yeah?

 

I'm fixin' to change mine as well. Where can I find the torque specifications for a 2016?

And how do you dispose of the waste oil?

 

Not if you’re using a dry torque spec on an oily plug...I learned this the hard way on my Taco transmission pan.

I’m a big proponent of gud n tite. Never had an issue on an engine oil drain plug, which I’ve always done by feel. Shouldn’t have gotten fancy on the transmission drain plug.

 

Any local autozone, walmart, etc will accept used motor or gear oil for recycling, usually a limit of a few gallons at a time. They'll also often take oil filters.

 

I haven't had luck with my local auto parts stores taking my engine oil, but Walmart has. I wasn't sure if they also accept gear oil.

 

I take mine to my local Autozone. They take it and dispose of it for free.

 

I can just clean the bolt really well and dry it off, then use the torque wrench, I guess.

 

You’d have to get the oil off the female threads too...

 

Sorry, I didn't know it's all the same and can be recycled together.

 

It can be difficult to keep the threads of the fill plug dry since the required fluid fill amounts often result in overflow out of the fill port. You could just back the torque spec down by 10%, or not worry about it. Having some oil in the threads isn't going to harm anything on a fill plug and using Toyota torque spec.

I've used OEM torque specs on all sorts of drain/fill plug bolts across multiple manufacturers, steel and aluminum threads with a mix of steel vs aluminum plugs. I know OEM torque specs don't leak (as long as there's a fresh crush washer if needed), and they don't seize either. Just thread by hand and tighten with a decent torque wrench and be on your merry way.

There's too much variability with german-spec "Guten tight" because what feels good and tight to my twig arms is going to feel way different to my weight lifting buddy.

 

If you have a new gasket, just get it tight till you start feeling a decent amount of resistance