2019 non-JBL audio upgrade with JL Stealth Box

What I did: After reading hundreds of posts on upgrading the audio system in a Tundra, I opted to go with an expensive but manageable solution. I pieced together this system and saved money by doing the install myself. I also wanted to keep the stock head unit and since I don’t have the JBL system, my setup allowed me to do that. Many thanks to the various posters here and elsewhere that provided critical information. Two points before I begin: This is not a budget build, nor is it a high-end build. 2nd, the install is not difficult, just time consuming.

System:

- JL Audio stealth box. I’ve had these in other vehicles and really like the sound. Not many solid reviews out there and this was the most expensive part of the system. High RMS required a substantial amp and eliminated a 5 channel in my price range. ($1,100 shipped)

- Speakers: Infinity Kappa front and rear. Components in the front and I added the midrange. Install kits came with the speakers from Crutchfield but I needed speaker wire and a few connectors to get everything wired. Crossovers are very cheesy and the case is much bigger than it needed to be. They have a button in the center for selecting the attenuation of the tweeters which made install a bit different to keep the button from contacting the door skins. Overall, this was a good setup because of the three-way and the mids being in the dash. The soundstage is upfront and centered though I did lower the treble because it was just too bright for me. The tweets are soft dome but silk would be a better choice. Install was basically drop in (Crutchfield says the speakers wont fit in the rear but they do and have plenty of room)with adapters provided by Crutchfield and I purchased Sequoia sails (Cool Springs Toyota $30 each) for the tweeters and hot glued them in. (pic) ($484 shipped)

- Sound processor: The amps I chose do not have speaker level inputs so I needed a signal processor. I went with an Audio Control LC6i (Sonic Electronix) ($149 shipped)

- Amps: I needed high RMS for the doors and the sub. Went with Rockford Fosgate Primes. R400 for the doors and the R1200-1D for the sub. (Sonic Electronix) ($179 and $299 shipped)

- Integration: Here is where I screwed up. I really liked the simplicity of the ********* integration and the amp rack but I needed more power than their amps could deliver. I bought the amp bypass kit and an amp install kit (4ga to 2-8ga) and grossly overpaid. The integration wiring was less than half on Amazon and the amp install kit was crap; poor quality fuse holders and cables. Sonic has much better amp kits for less and I wound up getting replacement fuse holders from them, along with higher rated fuses. The amp rack was very useful but expensive. (pic) ($209 shipped)

- Two boxes of Stinger Roadkill sound deadener for the inside and outside of the doors. I also used Stinger RCA cables for the connections between the sound processor and the amps. (eBay) ($100 each)

I did the doors in one day, including running extra wires for the tweeters and mids. Mid wires went through the grommets and the mids required an additional hole for the frame to fit in the stock locations but it was pretty much drop in. I left the door skins off for the next day when I hooked up the amps. I wanted to get both amps under the passenger seat but with the sound processor, it wouldn’t fit. Since I had to remove the rear under seat storage for the sub, I used the passenger side for the sub amp. After everything was hooked up, I tested the sound, adjusted the attenuation and put everything back together.

I worked slow (I’m 59) and took a lot breaks so this took me two days but…I have really good sound. I mostly listen to 70s rock, classical, and country. I don’t have the bass boom from pop/hip hop, but I do have a very high quality sound and very good low end from both the woofers and especially the sub. I didn’t think I would like the mids in the dash but the clarity is amazing (I can hear Bonnie Raitt slide the bottle on the guitar strings) and the sound is very even in the cab. Yes, I can crank it up and blow the windows out at around 35 on the volume knob. I run at 15 and it's great. Sound-deadener is a must! I have the EQ set on mids -1, treble -2. Gain on the amps is 1 or less and the signal strength is about 75 percent.


Can you do it? Yes.

 

Amps, adapters, and sub were removed yesterday. Because this involved no hacking of the wires, it took about 45 mins to return to stock.

 

It sounds like a decent set up. Why did you remove it?

 

This post is confusing me. Why did you put the fuse so close to the Amp . It should be up by the battery or source power. I was hoping you had more pics of the Stealth Box. I had the one that fit the Gen 2 Double cabs with that ever sub was in there 6" or 8" I forget but it hit HARD and costs $500 by itself . I scooped it up off good old CL for 300$. Man that thing was the best sub of that Size. People didn't believe me that it was as small as it was.

edit: 8W7AE-3 subwoofer "JL Audio SB-T-TUNDC/8W7/BK Stealthbox for 2007-2013 Toyota Tundra Double Cab "

Man that thing was awesome. The Sub alone is still sold for 500$. After I heard it I knew why. I wish they made a box for that Deep a$$ sub for the 3rd gen CrewMax.

 

I'm sure he has a fuse near the battery. What you're looking at is simply a fused distribution block, powering both the 4 channel and mono amps.

 

I sold the truck. It is a very good system but I can't use it my new veh.

 

Correct. I put the distro block on the amp plate just to make it simple. The master fuse was near the battery.

 

I'd be happy to use some of it in MY vehicle for you. Any chance your tundra was a double cab?

 

It was, coincidence? I think not!

 

All my equipment has been adopted. Thank to everyone who helped me find my way on this. Take care!

 

Nice post. What wiring harness did you use to get speaker inputs to the LOC?