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2015 - rear brakes replaced, squeals like a pig.

Discussion in '2.5 Gen Tundras (2014-2021)' started by j5k, Jun 19, 2024.

  1. Jun 19, 2024 at 8:09 PM
    #1
    j5k

    j5k [OP] New Member

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    Rear brake pads were shot so at first I cheaped out and just grabbed new pads at advance auto. Swapped them in, along with the new spring jammies that cram into the caliper to catch the little ears on the pads. Getting the pads in was a battle, and doesn't seem like it should have been this hard. Old pads came out easy.

    Drove for a bit and the noise just didn't stop. the pads bedded in I guess, but there was a higher pitched squeal that I can only guess was the little springy jammies rubbing on the rotors. Pulled it apart, tried again, still squealing.

    Today, replaced pads and rotors with EBC kit. Had to reuse the springy jammies since the new pads didn't come with them. Still had a bit of a fight getting the pads into the caliper bracket or whatever that thing is that holds the pads. It really doesn't seem like they should be this tight of a fit in there.

    At any rate, drove it for a few miles with a couple dozen stops to mate the pads and rotors but it still squeals. Again my best guess is the springy things rubbing against the rotors.

    Two questions. One, should it be a pain in the *** to get the pads into the caliper or should they just sort of drop/slide in, and two, is there a trick to installing the shims so a) the pads are easier to install and b) they don't rub on the rotor? Test drive was dark at the end but I'll pull apart tomorrow and see if the shims are touching the rotors.
     
  2. Jun 20, 2024 at 8:39 AM
    #2
    Jaypown

    Jaypown New Member

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    I just replaced my rears and they squealed for almost a week before finally clearing up. My assumption is new pads on old rotors. Also a battle to squeeze them into place.

    I should have wore brushed where the shims are to maybe make a little more room but from what I’ve heard, it’s a tight fit anyway.

    Give it time and miles and the noise should go away. Assuming everything is buttoned up right.
     
  3. Jun 20, 2024 at 9:38 AM
    #3
    AZBoatHauler

    AZBoatHauler SSEM#140/3URx2/BAF140

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  4. Jun 20, 2024 at 10:16 AM
    #4
    Jaypown

    Jaypown New Member

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    I personally sprayed brakeclean and put grease between the shims and the bracket. I made sure there was fresh new grease on the pins as well. Maybe they would have went in better with grease on the shims with the edges of the pads.

    I haven't used that tool but for the front brakes, I bet it's a game changer.
     
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  5. Jun 20, 2024 at 10:38 AM
    #5
    j5k

    j5k [OP] New Member

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    I did spray clean. There's a minimal amount of grease between the pads and the shims, and zero between the shims and the bracket. Resetting the caliper (assuming you mean, squeezing the piston so the caliper fits over the newer, much larger than worn out pads) was done with a cheap little compressor tool from the car parts store.

    I'm going to pull it all back apart this afternoon and clean the caliper bracket with some emery paper and get everything properly lubed.
     
  6. Jun 20, 2024 at 10:52 AM
    #6
    Gaston

    Gaston New Member

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    Is it possible you installed the shims on the wrong sides? Looking at their site their are 8 shims, 4 of one and 4 of another. If you install them incorrectly, you will end up with the spring clip parts of the shim facing the rotors, you want those away from the rotor, wondering if that might be causing your problems.
     
  7. Jun 20, 2024 at 11:52 AM
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    Randy Morton

    Randy Morton Life takes its toll, please have exact change.

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    A little of this between the puck and the pad should stop the noise.


    By the way, that's between the puck and the pad, not between the pad and the disc. :)
     
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  8. Jun 20, 2024 at 11:56 AM
    #8
    j5k

    j5k [OP] New Member

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    yeah, there's more shim sticking out the back side than toward the inside. This article has some good photos. My work looks roughly the same. https://www.yotatech.com/how-tos/a/...replace-brake-pads-calipers-and-rotors-414473

    In that article, the author doesn't mention anything about a rubber hammer needed to get the pads into the bracket, so I'm guessing I need to take it apart and thoroughly clean the rust from the bracket, lube the shims up good and not be happy until the pads slide relatively freely in the bracket.
     
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  9. Jun 20, 2024 at 12:07 PM
    #9
    texasrho83

    texasrho83 DGAF#1

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    I never use shims :anonymous:
     
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  10. Jun 20, 2024 at 1:24 PM
    #10
    j5k

    j5k [OP] New Member

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    The thought did cross my mind.
     
  11. Jun 20, 2024 at 7:43 PM
    #11
    j5k

    j5k [OP] New Member

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    Got it squared away. Took the calipers and brackets off, popped the pads and clips/shims out and replaced them with new clips (I had previously used new clips, but they got pretty dinged up). Before putting the clips in, I sanded the channels in the bracket with a fine sandpaper to get as much rust as I could out, then sprayed down with brake cleaner.

    Some tips for anyone stumbling around like me:
    1. It takes a few more minutes to get the brackets off the truck, but it's worth it in the end. Much easier to work with when they're off and in your hand.
    2. If the clips don't go into the channels easily, stop and sand/clean the channels more. The clips should go in without needing any force, but should stay put once they're in. Make sure they're centered and fully seated.
    3. Test fit the pads. The pads should go in smooth and easy and you should be able to slide them in and out with your fingers. If not, go back to step 2 and clean more rust.
    4. Not necessary but makes things pretty easy - put the pads in the bracket and then slip the pads and bracket back over the rotor.
    5. If you get it all back together and immediately hear what sounds exactly like a tiny piece of springy steel being held at a 90° angle to a spinning wall of steel, your clips are hitting the rotor, and that sound will not go away. Start over. Ok the sound might go away but it most likely means you've flubbed it up and will have a stuck pad and none of the system will work quite right.

    bonus tip: I bought an EBC kit off Amazon. Fitment was all fine after I bumbled the initial install, but note that my kit didn't come with replacement clips. You probably don't need them if your clips are in decent shape, but might be worth ordering at the same time so you have them if you do need to replace them.
     
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  12. Jun 21, 2024 at 4:16 AM
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    agrestic1

    agrestic1 New Member

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    Good write up. Yes where the clips seat, the area needs to be super clean. I use a wire wheel on a Dremel...The pads should slip in and out easily. I usually take a flat file to the ends of the pads and remove just a bit of surface, sometimes just removing the paint helps, add a little caliper grease to the pad or clips before installing the pads..
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2024
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  13. Jun 23, 2024 at 6:21 PM
    #13
    Tundra234

    Tundra234 New Member

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    Alot of them
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  14. Jun 24, 2024 at 5:30 AM
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    Jaypown

    Jaypown New Member

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  15. Jun 24, 2024 at 8:07 AM
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    Eric104

    Eric104 New Member

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    I did the front brakes, rotors and pads. No issue. The rears kicked my butt. Didn't realize you have to loosen the parking brake shoes with the star wheel. The rotor was a pain to get off. Broke 2 of the spring retainers. The rear brakes squeak terribly. I'm going to try and sand the corners of the back brake pad and grease them up since they were hard as hell to get into the bracket. Thank you for the write up!

    Heads up the Toyota pads do not come with hardware. One of the backing plates to the piston was broke in half so I had to buy another set of pads from O'Rielly's to get the hardware.
     
  16. Jun 24, 2024 at 8:08 AM
    #16
    BushBandit

    BushBandit New Member

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  17. Jun 24, 2024 at 10:45 AM
    #17
    Jaypown

    Jaypown New Member

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    You have to get the hardware separate. I got the pack that comes with the rods and the shims and clips. (For the Fronts at least)
     
  18. Jun 24, 2024 at 11:00 AM
    #18
    vtl

    vtl New Member

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    The rear brakes stabbed me in back. I managed to mangle the clips in the first test drive around the block. Went to the bin, bought Bosch BC1304 kit that comes with the hardware. Will report back once on truck.
     
  19. Jun 24, 2024 at 5:56 PM
    #19
    vtl

    vtl New Member

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    Bosch was a breeze. Once I figured out there's two different sets of clips/brackets/inserts in the box, it went in without a hiccup. No binding, no squeaks, brakes work with full power.

    I took the brackets off and cleaned the slots properly with wire wheel.

    When time comes for the Sequoia or for the Tundra's fronts again, I'll pick up Bosch, not Toyota pads.
     
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