2012 Tundra Died at stop light, no ODB codes

Engine was running fine prior to dying. Battery and alternator are solid. Truns over fast, and will start briefly but then dies again. Can occasionally rev engine briefly, then dies again. Does not misfire when it starts. oil pressure and temp were good when it died. Can this be gas related? Filled tank from empty just 7.5 miles before problem first occurred. Fill up was at a station that does high volume of customers. Is there a way to check fuel pump or pressure? Vehicle has 130K miles.

 

You're on the right track. Fuel pump.

 

OK, thanks. Will start to investgate fuel pump. Any other sugesstions appreciated.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/12’-tundra-4-6-fuel-delivery-issues.94543/

Some other issues to consider. Fuse relays, filters, pump. I'd guess that your truck isn't getting proper fuel and pressure and that's why it's not running but cranking fine. I had this on a friends 04. I know different make and model but damn near the same engine. Replaced fuel pump and she was golden again.

 

If it starts then dies repeatedly, then the pump is still functioning.

The 7 miles from fill up has me thinking you got a bad batch of gas that is mostly water.

 

I had the same problem in my old Durango (twice).
I'd agree it is likely fuel pump related. The pump may not be fully dead, but near death. That is probably is why you get some life before it cuts out again.
As a habit, try not to always let the tank run empty. The fuel tank being near empty causes the fuel pump to work harder and die quicker over the long run.

 

Started testing. Can hear the fuel pump run when key is swithed on, but recognize that pump may not be putting out enough pressure. Started out checking fuses and relays. May be a distraction, but found a mouse nest inside the fuse box under hood. Cleaned that out but could see mice had chewed some wire insulation. So had to disassemble the fuse box, to examine the wires. None broken, but some bare wires evident. Covered the bare spots with liquid electrical tape and left to dry. Some of the wires were grounds (white with a black stripe) all going to what apeared to be a test connector plug. Three other wires were heavier weight. None appeared to go to the Fuel pump relay - those all looked solid. Will reassemble today and see if any change. Updates to follow.

 

Got fuse box reassembled and determined cause of mice entry was (2) oversize holes where main wire harness enter and exist bottom of box. Resolved that upon reassembly by spraying expandable isnulating foam into holes to plug them.

Truck started right up and ran fine for about 8 minutes, then died. Repeated tests confirm it will quickly start after sitting an hour or so, then will die after 7 - 9 minutes of running. During running time, engine idle is smooth and engine will rev. Plan to work on fuel pump next.

 

Vermin are the worst.

 

Follow-up on final fix. Replacing fuel pump resolved the problem. Primary issue encountered when removing fuel tank was a rust frozen bolt holding one of the tank straps. Although I used liberal amounts of Kroil and loosen/tighten sequences, the hidden nut tack welded to frame bracket broke free from bracket, so I had to cut the bolt. The second bolt required similar repeated loosen/tighten sequence but ultimately came free after over an hour of work. Definately slowed down the project!