2011 tundra stalling issues

I need your help. I have a 2011 Tundra Rock Warrior. Just under 48k miles. The truck sat for 2 1/2 weeks since the last time I used it. It started and ran for just over a minute. The RPMS dropped like it wanted to stall but jumped back to normal. It did this 3-5 times then finally stalled. When I re started it and pressed the gas pedal to keep it running, it didn’t help. The truck needed gas. The fuel light just came on the last time I used it. I put 5 gallons of gas in it thinking it needed more fuel. I cleaned the MAF sensor too. The problem still was there but when I gave the truck more pedal to keep it running when it wanted to stall, I was able to keep it running. I am lost on what to do. It doesn’t seem like a fuel pump issue because it does start and will keep running when more pedal is given to it. Is it a bad MAF sensor or a fuel pump module? Or a fuel pump on its way out? What should I do next?

 

My first dummy question is, Is it a flex fuel?? if it is you might need to look for a TSB concerning your year.... If it isn't, you may want to look for frayed wires, or harness, there may be a possibility a rat chewed through your harness and you're having issues there... How long was the last time you filled up before the 5 gallons you put in there??? fuel goes bad after 30 days, so if you last pumped fuel a week before you stopped driving it, you will need to drain your tank and add fresh fuel, This is probably your problem here, bad gas.. Seafoam or some octane booster to get it going.

 

No, flex fuel. Since I couldn’t drive it to the gas station, I went with a 5 gallon jug to the gas station. The last time I filled up the truck was 3 months ago. I fill it with regular unleaded. Should I use 87 or 89 octane? I will try seafoam and an octane booster.

 

Manual states 87 is good, you can research higher if you want... so the fuel in the tank is 3 months old??? that may be the issue, and you may need to burn out whatever is left in there and refill with fresh fuel... Another issue may be an almost dead battery.. you can take it to get recharged, or you can try to keep it on, for a 30 minute cycle more or less... I've gone through some similar issues, which is hard to pinpoint... It will start, but then it will slowly tick down along with the idle, it almost sounds like the ECU is shutting unnecessary items to keep the engine running until it dies... So, what I've done, is sit in the truck and let it idle, while I see it drop below the dash I give it gas to 1k rpm, or just above the last dash line. This takes about 10-15 minutes and once you can let it be without it dropping, it is pretty much good to go. You can also take it for a drive, but it will stall out, you can aske me how I know, so it works better if you do it in your driveway/parking spot and let it idle normally before shutting it down... Easier way is taking it to get recharged..

 

I charged the battery for almost an hour. It was almost fully charged. I added a bottle of Techron fuel system cleaner and another 5 gallons of gas. I started the truck and kept the rpms between 2-3k rpms. If I kept it any lower it would start cutting out and stall. After about 20 mins I could keep the rpms at 1500 without the truck stalling. At about 30 mins I was able to drive it. It lacked acceleration and at times it would only idle at 500 rpms and drive in limp mode. Once I shut off the truck and restarted it, I could drive it again and once in awhile with full acceleration. Then I had a few lights come on the dash board. The Check engine light and VSC light were on and 4LO was flashing. I used my OBD 2 scanner and codes P0302, P0171, P0174 came up. Tomorrow I will see why Cylinder 2 misfires.

 

swap the cylinder 2 coil pack with any other cylinder and rerun the obd2, quickest way to rule out the coil... clean the MAF, any chance you unplugged it without disconnecting the battery, as this may trigger a code.

 

I did not disconnect the battery the other day when I unplugged the MAF sensor to clean it.

 

so, that will automatically trigger a CEL... so that may be a subjective, when you reset it, I'm sure it will clear itself out...

 

After reading a few other threads, I decided to buy a fuel pump control module. Luckily that solved the problem. The truck is running great again. Thank you for your help.

 

How much did it cost you ? And did you buy oem

 

I ordered it from a nearby Toyota dealership. It cost $293 with tax. The screws holding the bracket to the module where difficult to remove. They were Philip head screws. I was able to remove 1 and the other snapped off. I went to Home Depot and bought new hex head bolts.

 

good to know. where is the module located ?

 

It’s on the inner frame in your drivers side rear wheel well. Look over the tire and you will see a bolt sticking through the frame. There is nut holding it to the frame.