2010 Tundra motor mounts

Have 2010 Tundra 2WD 4.6L engine, how difficult is it to change motor mounts?

The trans mount was very easy.

I do have a 4 post lift and the youtube video on doing the passenger side motor mount has the exhaust manifold removed.

Is removing the exhaust manifold necessary to swap motor mounts and is this a DYI type project.

Any tips?

 

If they are like the 5.7 mount, it’s quite simple… if you have contortionists hands… but takes some time.

The 5.7 mounts can both be done from the wheel wells without removing much. I pulled the fiber splash guard (if you have one, not the plastic fender liner…), the exhaust shields on the passenger side, and disconnected a few wire clips. I also disconnected the battery - as you should do anyways - because the alternator stud could contact the mount while maneuvering it around.

Pull the mount out in two pieces. Drivers side is a little easier so maybe start with that. Just be very careful around the AC lines. You could always pull the serp belt and move the ac compressor without opening the ac lines if you are concerned. I should have at least placed a piece of cardboard or hard plastic between them but managed to gingerly slide the mount out without damaging any lines.

Support the engine with a block and jack; it will move up an inch or so, but beyond that and you start to stretch a small wiring harness on the passenger’s side right behind the alternator. Loosen all the bolts, then separate the two halves of the mount by lifting the motor just enough for the mounts to clear and twisting a pry bar or stout flathead between the two halves. Finagle them out one at a time, but IIRC, I had to move the halves around a bit before I could squeeze one side out. On the PS, I think I had to pull one of the halves back towards the transmission and drop it by the starter.

On installation, the bolts that thread in to the block are fine thread and easy to cross thread, especially since you don’t have straight access to half of them. This is where contortionist fingers would help (I don’t possess those…) to start the bolts a few turns by hand. I used several combinations of 3/8 and 1/4 drive sockets, swivels, and extensions to get at all the bolts, along with some ratcheting wrenches for the frame side mount. I prolly spent more time trying to get the bolts to thread in properly on the block than anything else.

 

Thanks!

Changed both motor mounts tonight. Four hour job start to finish, working solo.
There is a youtube video that shows replacing the drivers side only motor mount that is helpful for orientation.

With out a lift I would highly suggest having a helper that can slide under car as necessary.
After removing all three mounts the trans mount was partially torn, the drivers side motor mount was completely torn and separated in the bracket and the passenger side motor mount had a sheared off alignment pin not sure when it sheared off. The passenger side mount appeared to be otherwise in good condition.

Tools for job: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm sockets, extensions, swivels(or swivel style sockets), 19mm box end wrench (highly recommend ratchet style box end wrench), pry bars, flashlights, torque wrench.

Removal/replacement procedure:

jack up front of car, chock back wheels and put engage e brake, disconnect negative side of battery, place jack stands, remove front tires.

Start with driver's side:

remove the the inner fender rubber splash guards (2) NOT FENDER LINER!!! Use 14mm sockets to break loose the motor mount bolts (2), use 19mm ratchet style box end wrench to break loose the motor mount from the engine mount. Use 14mm sockets to break loose the (4) engine mount bracket. Use 10mm socket to remove the exhaust shield and remove shield from under the truck.
I would suggest you break loose the passenger side 19mm bolt on the top of the motor mount on the passenger side in order to allow the motor to move upward easier.
Place wood block under motor, use jack to raise motor.
Remove the 19mm bolt from top of motor mount before raising motor, remove the (2) 14mm bolts that hold the motor mount in place, remove the (4) 14mm bolts that holds the motor mount bracket to the block.
Use pry bar to remove the motor mount and bracket up, the wiggle entire unit out from under the truck.
I raised the motor up enough so the bracket was just clearing the bolt on top of the mount.
It is still a bit trickey and you have to wiggle the mount and bracket to get the out.

To replace the driver side motor mount and bracket:

place bracket onto new motor mount and screw the 19mm bolt back onto the top of the mount loosely. From under the truck, put the entire engine mount and motor mount back in place as one unit.
Use Fingers to screw the (4) brackets to block bolts in place, then put the (2) mount bolts in loosely. Torque the motor mount brackets to the block. I left all the other bolts finger tight until I completed the passenger side bracket.

Passenger side motor mount replacement:

use 10mm socket to remove the bolt that holds the engine oil dipstick tube in place, remove the inner fender well rubber splash guards (2) (NOT the fender liner), remove the 12mm bolt holding the front brake line bracket in place, remove the 12mm bolt holding the engine wiring harness bracket, remove the 10mm bolts (3) holding the heat shield in place and take the heat shield off from the bottom of the truck. Middle 10mm bolt requires a wrench, use a ratchet style box end wrench.
Wiggle dipstick tube up and away from the engine block when you are in the fender well area. Use zip tie to tie the dipstick tube out of the way.

Remove the (4) 14 mm engine mount bolts from block, remove the 19mm bolt from the top of the motor mount and the (2) 14mm motor mount bolts. Use pry bar to wiggle the bracket and motor mount as one unit, the bracket and mount can exit from the wheel wheel, not the bottom of the truck.

Put new motor mount onto mounting bracket, put 19mm bolt loosely on top of the mount and wiggle the bracket and mount back through the fender well as it was removed.

Use fingers to put the (4) 14mm block, then tighten those bolts to final torque, then put the (2) 14mm motor mount bracket bolts in place. Put the passenger side heat shield back in place.
Put the engine oil dipstick back into block, then go to top of engine bay and tighten the 10mm bolt that holds the tube in place.
Lower the engine and torque all the bolts to torque (both sides).

Use 12mm socket to put the brake and wiring harness back in place, secure the wiring harness. Reattach the inner fender splash guards.

Put tire back on, torque lug nuts, remove truck from jack stands, connect negative battery terminal.

Test drive.

Total cost (with tax) official Toyota parts: transmission mount: $94.35, two motor mounts $234.48 total: $328.83

Well worth the effort and the steering wheel shimmy I had at highway speeds is now gone.

Thanks for the response.

 

Glad you got it sorted out. Surprised to hear they were trashed, but it happens. At 190k mine were just fine, surprisingly.