2010 Brake issue help needed

Had front and rear rotors, shoes completed. Found the ABS pump was bad and it was change with the right part number and bleed with computer for the ABS pump and all wheels also completed. Problem when the truck sits and I drive it fist thing when I apply pedal hard and fast at first the brakes are not crisp and won't stop, I would say they just fade down, very slow and long stop. After 2 to 3 time trying to stop real hard the problem is fixed, And then when I hit the brakes fast, it stops fast and hard the way it should. Would love some advice were to go from here? All the lines were checked and when bleeding no blockage. Stump as well as mechanic also.

 

I dont' know if this helps much but had the same issue with pads at about 40k mi that were 40-50% left. The pedal would sink before engaging brakes and could be pumped up but faded. The truck stopped fine but the delay as the brakes sank really bothered me as far as reaction time especially when towing. I had a really great reputation indy mechanic check them out and he bled them twice and also replaced the Master Cylinder only to find it did the same thing. He didn't charge me and said it probably needed to go to a Toyota dealer and have the ABS system bled with Techstream. He was stumped and threw in the towel.

Next time I was in for an oil change (trusted Dealer mechanic) I asked the service adviser about the problem and said the non-dealer mechanic suggested techstream bleeding. The adviser said usually replacing the pads took care of that and they had a special front & back $199 for new pads and turned rotors and guaranteed the mushiness would be gone. I went with the special and when done the brakes worked perfectly (firm pressure at the top of the pedal). So my theory is there is some little secret that the Toyota mechanic knew about Tundra brakes when they are mushy and they got me for a new set of pads & rotors turned. For $200 with new pads I was very happy the brakes were so good, but still wondered what they did that the indy mechanic did not. The indyr mechanic cleaned the brake mechanisms and bled twice. The Service Rep said they did not need to do a ABS bleed??? Mystery......

 

My guess is they blew out the master cylinder when they were bleeding the brakes. If they perform the bleed and push the pedal beyond its typical travel while doing so, it can ruin the seal on the piston inside the master cylinder. This sounds very similar to what my Sequoia was doing when I was chasing its brake problems. I had your same symptoms.

 

Ok so I have brand new power stop rotors and pads, 1000 mile on them. So pick up german rotors and I am going to try factory pads. I think this is what your talking about. thx it drives me crazy.

 

Ok will add mater cylinder also. Pat

 

I know it’s not the same year but the Toyota master cylinder was going to be pretty pricey. I took a chance on Napa and it’s still working well.

 

Thanks for all the help. Pat