2008 tundra 4.7 oil leak

Just recently bought a used 2008 4.7. If any one can help it would be greatly appreciated. Do the 4.7 have cam tower leaks ? How would I know the difference between a cam tower leak and valve cover leak ? Attached are some pictures. The oil looks like it’s coming from/ sitting on top of the black or gray gasket and then dripping down on top of exhaust manifold. Some of it is burning off and some is falling more towards the front. Attached is a pictures. Both the driver and passenger side have this problem

 

I would venture valve cover. The 2nd gens didn't have cam tower issues, that only came on the 2014+ models. We have the lovely AIP issues.

 

Thanks for the response. I hope that’s correct. Seems like it’s not too hard to do yourself. As far as the AIP goes would it be best to get the bypass/delete kit for it ?

 

If you live in a humid / often-wet or snow environment I would.

I live in Dallas/Ft Worth. So I don't plan on bypassing mine, it has 110,000 miles on it. It gets rainy here roughly 4 or so months a year and I park on top of a gravel parking pad, so I am not worried about the pump valves rusting shut. If I lived anywhere near the ocean, or in the northern / rust belt states, I would bypass it.

 

Tighten the valve cover bolts, good chance they're loose. 53 INCH lbs torque is the spec so they aren't super tight to begin with.

 

Alright so south east Louisiana here, there’s nothing but humidity. Guess I should just go ahead and bypass? From what I understand it’s just emission related and doesn’t affect the truck? Also regarding the valve cover, I know it’s leaking I can see it after driving but it never shows oil loss on dipstick or pressure gauge. Am I good to drive it ? I say never I’ve only owned the truck three days

 

Definitely valve cover gaskets. The cam tower leak is only on the 5.7 and you would look through the wheel well at the cam tower to see that leak. I had a 2011 with cam tower leak. How many miles on the truck? Rubber valve cover gaskets harden over time so you could torque them to spec and maybe fix it or just replace the gaskets and definitely fix it. Like you stated above, it is an easy job.

 

115k miles on it. Think I’ll just replace them and get it over with.

 

Smart! And the Hewitt bypass kit is cheap insurance against a very expensive fix.

 

I have an 08 4.7L and have experience with both of these. Those are the valve cover gaskets leaking, and I went ahead and had them replaced. I think new gaskets and seals installed was roughly $350 or so? Mine probably leaked for a year or so like in the picture, but never dripped down. It finally got enough where it would drip on the exhaust and I could smell it, so I went ahead and had them replaced. Truck had probably 150k on it at the time.

I unfortunately have been the victim of the AIP fail twice. The first time, it was covered under warranty. The second time, it failed two years later, it was still under the mileage claim, but I was out on the 10 year part by about 3 months and they wouldn't touch it. Replacing them again was out of the question, as they only lasted two additional years and would have cost over $2k. I live in SC, so no crazy rain, but it is definitely humid here. As the others have said, this is strictly for emissions on a cold start up. That system basically makes it run cleaner, quicker. I went with the Hewitt Kit, and it was very easy to install and straight forward. Give them a call, they are very knowledgeable about their products. If you have the money, go ahead and do it to be on the safe side. When those fail, the truck will go into limp mode.

 

Alright, thanks for all the continuous help everyone. Regarding AIP has anyone ever tried rutech or slyfox? They seem to do the same but are way cheaper. Another question I have is I don’t know if the previous owner changed the timing belt. How difficult is it to get into there just enough for me to take a look at the condition of it. I can get the belt/water pump kit installed from a local mechanic for around $900 parts and labor. I’d rather not replace a brand new belt for no reason. Thanks

 

The interval on the timing belt is recommended at 90k miles. Usually I would think the dealer or other shop may put a sticker under the hood when it was replaced.

 

You might be surprised. Mine had almost 200k on it and snugging them up has stopped it for over a year. I figured when it starts again I'll replace them with new OEM.