2007 5.7L LTD Tundra wont Start

I checked the Starter Solonoid relay and it is good. I hear a click when I turn the key to start, but no sound from the starter motor. Before I go under the truck to look at the starter motor, could there be a reason for it not turning over? This happened all of a sudden after I was just turning the trucik on and off and it started eaxch time. Then when I tried to start it for the third time the starter motor failed to turn over , but I hear the starter soloniod clicking.

 

Jump the relay with a wire or paperclip.

 

Have you checked the battery? Mine went dead without any sign even after just using it.

 

Could be worn out starter contacts.

 

Idid jumper the contacts on the Starter Relay, and all it does is activate the Starter Solonoid, but not the motor. The Solenoid contacts istself supplies voltage to the Motor winding. If the Solenoid contacts are bad, it won't start the motor. I'm wondering if the 12V has a fuse in it that goes to the starter solenoid contacts. It has to be a high current of course to drive the starter motor. Is there an additional fuse that this voltage toes thru.? I dont have a schematic so I can't tell. Maybe someone else has that info that I can check

 

This first. Also are the posts clean?

 

Yes, the battery posts are clean.

 

The solenoid is really just a big relay. The primary power feed comes straight from the battery with no fuse or relay. The contacts in the solenoid bridge this source to the motor. The relay mentioned above just powers the solenoid winding that pulls the contacts closed. Surprisingly, that winding requires about 5 amps to pull (less to hold it), so a relay is used.

When the contacts become severely pitted and they always do at some point, the either make no contact or not enough contact to pass the amperage necessary to move the motor. The clicking means the plunger is getting pulled into position, the lack of motor movement means either the contacts are shot or the motor is shut. Occasionally burrs develop around the plunger and this prevents the contacts from meeting.

sounds like you need a new solenoid. Should be able to replace in situ, which is easier than pulling the starter all the way out.

 

Thanks for reply. So, just wondering....lets suppose the Solenoid is working and it supplies 12V to the motor thru its solenoid contacts without any fuse for the 12V to the motor, what happens if the Motor has a short and a Raw 12v is applied from the battery to the motor, without a fuse in line with that 12v.? "Meltdown?" I just can't believe there is no protection between the motor and the battery once the solenoid contacts are made. Comments?

 

No idea what you’re trying to accomplish. If your starter isn’t working and you have no codes, start working on replacement.

 

Well, as a Electronic Engineer I tend to look at all aspects of a circuit. And since I don't have the actual schematic of my truck, I wanted to know if there was a fuse inline with the Motor winding and the + terminal of the battery. I can see a situation where if the starter motor had a short in it, and there was no fuse, that would mean you have the full 12v of the battery passing thru it. The first thing that would happen is the battery would drain almost immediately, and the second thing that could happen is the motor could catch fire due to the very high current load. So, my guess would be that the 12V that passes thru the Solenoid contacts thru the motor winding to ground would have a fuse in line with it. My guess is that it would be a fuse equal to or greater than 30amps. And lastly, I don't relish getting under the truck to take out the starter motor if there might still be a fuse I did not check.

 

There’s no fuses in your starter. All of the applicable fuses, solenoids and relays are accessible in the engine bay. Poor battery connection, or poor cabling can create click no start. If you’ve checked all of the above, it’s time to start thinking starter.

 

Ok thank you. I will take it on your word that no fuses exist in line with the Starter motor since I don't have the trucks schematic. I saw on YouTube where someone who had the same issue, banged on the starter with a pipe or hammer and it freed the thing up to start. Even so, that sounds like its time to replace the starter. Thanks again for feedback.

 

I do believe all of the electrical diagrams are available on this forum. Can someone point the OP to where they are linked??

 

My word was that no fuses exist within the starter. There shouldn’t be any fuses beyond the fuse box either. But there are definitely fuses that protect the starter from overcurrent. Just not if you attempt to “jump it”. The 5.7 (UR family) has a different starter location and suffered from starter motor failure more than the 4.7 (almost never). Contacts wear out in the 4.7 more often.

 

2007* original starter ? how many miles on the current starter ??
Everything your describing happened to my 2011 with 236k with original starter. After reading what a pita it is I decided to have it replaced with a dealer bought OEM starter. No more problems since.
I got lucky my coworker is an awesome auto mechanic. Also he's 5/2 160 lbs.
I literally watched him take his time as he should... put his hands behind the exhaust manifold as the starter sits between the engine block and headers and proceed to replace the starter in roughly 2.5 hours.
Talk about the right guy for the job lol.
I've seen guys on YouTube loosen engine mounts, remove or attempt to move the exhaust manifold, all kinds of hell to access the starter and Bayron does it in a little more than 2 hours. I was amazed.
I learned a valuable lesson that day.
Check for yourself *

 

Sorry but automobiles do not have fuses between the battery and starter motor. Alternators sometimes have fusible links, but never on the starter. The solenoid activation circuit (~5A)will be fused, but Not the main power source (several 100 amps on a big V8).

 

You are correct in that the main power cable that feeds the starter has no fuse on it. The ignition system and starter relay are both fuse protected. The relay is often a fuse itself in starter systems. Doesn’t sound like any of that is OPs problem.