2007 5.7 SR5 - Key fob; battery, FPCM, Engine cut out while driving,

Hi all,



2007 5.7 SR5 136,000 miles: Hewitt Air injection bypass installed; thermostat and radiator - August 2024

below is list of symptoms in order of occurrence:

1. 1 week ago Lost lock/unlock fob: ordered new one from locksmith, he was unable to get truck into program mode. When I bought the truck 3 years ago this same locksmith programmed extra keys and the fob for me. Told me to take to dealer to "see why it won't go into program mode".
***I have not yet*** 200 miles since

2. Engine cut out while driving: Thursday night while driving through an intersection truck cut out and stalled on me. Have lights etc., would crank and then did this weird "long crank". (I believed this has been mentioned in other posts.) Towed truck home.

3. Replaced battery, old one has a manuf. date of 11/16 (not bad). Still Crank no start.

4. Replaced Fuel pump control module with a new one from the dealer. Still Crank no start. Old on was rusted and corroded.

5. Disconnected battery for 3 hours, reconnected, still crank no start. Long crank still resent as well.

Thoughts, suggestions?

My thoughts:

1. Maybe dealer needs to "flash" the computer;
2. Did the locksmith trying to program the new fob last week mess something up;

 

Almost sounds like the vehicle is entering a security mode where it kills the fuel pump when the right key isn't recognized... Although, I can't see that would have anything to do w/the vehicle cutting out while driving as the security feature only deals w/start up.

I'm not looking at my '08 right now, but if memory serves me correctly, there's a red flashing vehicle icon in the small display above the center channel speaker; it has the clock, exterior temp, trip info and parking sonar display (if you are so equipped)...

Anyhow the flashing red vehicle icon is the security warning light (or whatever you want to call it) and when triggered, it supposedly shuts off fuel supply when the vehicle believes it is being started by an unauthorized key or other source. Point being, pay attention to that icon and if it's flashing, steady on, flashing fast, etc. when you try to start the vehicle and record that info. It may help a locksmith or the dealer identifiy if that's where the fault is...

But, in the meantime, try putting your key in the driver's side door and manually lock the door; then unlock it...

Now open your door; close it back up; lock it again manually (with the key); unlock it again manually; get in and see if it starts up...

This procedure is supposedly a reset procedure for the system.

 

Triple,

Thank you for the quick response, greatly appreciated.

I have the blinking red car with key light near the temp display as you mentioned above:
When I enter the truck, before inserting the key in the ignition, it blinks slow and steady.
When I insert the key, the light goes out.

1. I tried your reset procedure and still no luck.

Any other suggestions?

 

Sorry, I don't have anything else for you...

but it definitely sounds like you lost fuel pressure, and with it having happened while driving I'd assume it's more than a security issues

and yes, I checked in my '08 and yours is behaving as mine does in regards to what the security light is doing.

I hope you find a quick and relatively inexpensive solution to what you're experiencing!

 

***UPDATE***

I sprayed started fluid in the air box, and it fired up, and immediately stalled, I'm guessing it's a fuel pump...

 

I fired the parts cannon at my 4.7 that was shutting down on the highway. pulled over, long crank, fired up long enough to get home. new fuel pressure regulator, new fuel damper. same condition. shut down on the road and at idle. Believe it or not, it was an aftermarket MAF sensor. Engine ran fine at idle, tapped on the sensor and it shut down. Rechecked several times with the result the same. Replaced it with OEM sensor and it runs great. Try the tap test.

 

*** Update ***

Tundra is fix. Apparently, the Fuel pump control module does not do its job if the connectors are not fully seated... SMH

PS, I learned a long time ago with my bikes, anything electrical gets OEM!!!!