2004 Tundra SR5 ac freezes up ?

vehicle ac works great for about 30 to 40 minutes -then unit freezes up (r/side dash).
if you turn a/c button on dash off(that turns compressor on & off) and leave off for a while
it will function again for a short while . Had checked pressure good on both sides. Anyone
encountered this before ? Thanks

 

are you saying the compressor freezes up (seizes)? or that the condenser freezes up?

 

Update : took to highly qualified mechanic who replaced expansion valve, thermistor, and evap core.Works better than ever
Evap core was beyond cleaning .Truck is 15 years old but super clean with 152,000 Thanks for trying to assist.Had taken to two other "good" mechanics who could not figure. The last one i took it to had diagnostic equipment(remote) that he could monitor compressor /AC
operation going down the road

 

Good deal. Glad you found a pro to fix it. Thanks for following up. May we ask how much the fix cost?

 

They replaced evap core(could not clean enough to work properly-was really bad shape),expansion valve and evac/charge.
Was around Thousand dollars. Works really great-been several months in Heat of Florida

 

Where is this evap core?
My truck still has air but it's not blowing as cold as it should.

 

Have you tried to recharge it on your own?

 

Front passenger side behind the firewall.

 

Typically, the evap coil freezing up means it's low on freon. If the low side (fattest tube) going into the firewall is frosted/iced up you need refrigerant. If the condenser side's sight glass (if it has one) has bubbles running past it (when motors running and a/c is on) the system is low on freon. If the system doesn't leak out refrigerant quickly (very very slow leak) then just recharge the system and forget about replacing the coils if someone says one or the other is bad (usually the evap coil).

 

No but I'd like to. I really don't know much about the AC system so I'm hoping to learn this week. I'm sure there is a video online.

 

My research suggests that if your system is leaking, then the entire freon contents need to be evacuated. Address the leak and refill with brand new freon.

Also, without going full Marbles here, its not a good idea to ‘top off’ the system as that creates problems in itself.

Just like home HVAC has a useful life, so do our trucks.

One more tidbit: Its a good idea to run your a/c once a week even in the winter (try defrost) as the freon oils circulate the truck system and lube the seals and keep them fresh and pliable. Same with your home system.

 

I'm not sure what to buy. I know they don't use freon anymore.. What do they call it now?

 

There is a little sticker on the hood of our trucks that states the type. HFC 134a

 

If the system has refrigerant in it (is not completely empty) then there is pressure in the system and it doesn't need to be evacuated, just refill it with whatever refrigerant it uses. If there is no refrigerant charge in the system then you have to evacuate the system with a vacuum pump to eliminate all moisture in the system. Beside repairing/replacing where the leak is from it is mandatory to replace the receiver-drier also. W/O having gauges the charge is complete when the fat line going into the firewall stops frosting and begins to sweat. No frost and line has water droplets on it instead. Or is full when sight glass, if it has one, runs clear w/o bubbles flowing past it. However, when the low side tube starts sweating that's good enough and very close to being fully charged. Don't over charge or you will blow the compressor.
When charging keep the can's top side up and keep shaking it. If you don't know what your doing and and charge with fluid (can is upside down) you can blow the compressor cause the pistons are pounding against liquid and not gas.
Go to the library or parts store and get a book on car refrigeration to see if you want to do this yourself.

 

That's all I run in the winter. Def and feets.

 

R134a. They sell it everywhere. Just buy a can and follow the instructions. There are probably lots of how to vids on YouTube as well.

 

https://youtu.be/Pdq8JAlct6s
https://youtu.be/SHg2xRMnM38

 

just to add a bit here. Bought my 2000 tundra with 216k on the clock. Guy said ac used to blow cold but it didn't when I got it. So I assumed a leak. I recharged it just with the a/c pro and it has been great.

I will add just a couple words of advice. Go with A/C pro, don't go cheap. It will be $30-40 but it's worth it. I used one with a sealer in it, really seemed to help. A/c was still cool next year, however I topped it off and made it even cooler. I must just have a very small/slow leak somewhere. To me not a huge deal that I want to dump money into.

When recharging your AC make sure the truck is running with AC on full blast. Attach your nozzle to proper port (it's a hard line on the passenger side under hood. I believe it was close to power steering reservoir just near passenger front wheel well. It's up high with easy access. Make sure you get a good seal or attachment of your nozzle on that port.

While refilling hold your recharging can upside down and shake it. Helps move the 134a in and displace it in the lines. Then stop and check the gauge on the can to see where it is at. Do shorter bursts. Like 2 seconds or so and see if any results.

If you look at your level with the gauge on the can with the engine off (or the AC not turned on) it will show odd readings. Don't go off of those.

Hope this helps!