2003 Toyota tundra shut off while driving and won't start back up

I was on my way to work yesterday morning. When my 2003 Toyota tundra limited edition access cab step side just loses power out of nowhere almost like it was running out of gas which I know isn't likely because I had filled it up the night before. So now it will turn over but not crank just replaced alternator last week and got a new battery yesterday. Still not cranking. Replaced fuel filter today nothing changed. Need help!!

 

What do you mean by turn over but not crank? Usually those mean the same thing.

Do you mean when try to start it the starter is turning the engine but it's not starting?

Did you replace the battery before or after this happened? It's not uncommon on our old trucks for the battery cables to get corroded under the insulation, problems right AFTER battery replacement are usually terminals or cables that got disturbed from the battery change.

In any case, it sounds just like when my fuel pump went out. My truck lost power but kept running and I was able to creep it home. Then it wouldn't restart, no matter how much I cranked it. I smacked the bottom of the fuel tank with a rubber mallet and it started right up. So I replaced the fuel pump and that solved it.

If you decided to replace the fuel pump, you have to drop the tank, which isn't that hard. Don't let anyone talk you into removing the bed....the access port is under the cab so removing the bed doesn't help you.

 

Check your battery terminals - they could be loose, or the lugs broke off the wire. My old T100 just shut off on me one day when it was about the same age as your truck and it was because the negative side lug just broke off the wire.

 

Terminals are good and the wires are also good could the anti theft cause the check battery light to come on and stay on??

 

Anti-theft immobilizer was only OEM in some DC models, IIRC. You're '03 so not a DC.

Stupid question, but have you checked your timing belt? If it snaps at anything above 1000rpm, your engine is probably FUBAR. It needs to be changed (per Toyota) every 9yr/90k miles and a lot of people neglect it because they're ignorant to the schedule, the importance, or turned off by the price tag to change it. 10mm socket. Loosen whichever timing cover is easiest to get to. Inspect the belt to make sure it's tight. Also, look under the driver's side of the dash to see if some asshole (dealer or previous owner) installed an aftermarket alarm. You'll know because there'll probably be a zip-tied black box somewhere, random ass wires that don't look stock, lines spliced.

You didn't bother to say which engine you have, which is kinda important. I think all the Limiteds were V8, but ...

 

Does anyone know what this small connector does it's on passenger side in front of fuel rail has a single yellow wire with red stripe
And yes I have a 4.7L v8 sorry new to the forum

 

That connector is the coolant temp sensor. There should be another one screwed in that hole just below it with a green connector.

 

And it's worth adding, we've seen plenty of other folks who've encountered no-start situations, specifically in cases where it's the temp sensor (there are two) that feeds the ECM (one feeds ECM data, one feeds the gauge). I want to say the ECM sensor is green. Both are on the passenger side of the throttle body; one is grey or black, one is green (if OEM). Both have two wires going to them I believe in pre-'05.

 

It only has one wire and one prong to connect the wire to. It was a gray connector that broke. Would the cause the crank no start the check battery light was illuminated on the dash. I have looked and found the one of the hoses the connect to the power steering reservoir has a leak which I believe caused my alternator to fail which I had just replaced 10 days ago. Went a few hours ago and replaced the alternator. This will be the 2nd new alternator in 10 days. It drove fine for about 4 - 5 after I replaced the factory alternator then completely shut down. I have checked fuses and relays with a multi meter all seem to be functioning normally. Im honestly at a lose as to what could be the problem

 

You'll definitely need to get a new connector and repin it, then get a new sensor put in. As for the alternator, did you replace your power steering hose that was leaking? Sometimes it's just the hose clamps at the resivoir itself that get loose and need to be tightened or replaced. As for the alternator itself, what brand did you use? Vatozone brand? Denso or Bosch are about the only brands worth a shit, and you'll want at least the 100A.

Temp sensor:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...oling+system,temperature+sender+/+sensor,4748

Power steering hoses incase it's not the clamps:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...01,steering,power+steering+pressure+hose,7320

Alternator:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...389001,electrical,alternator+/+generator,2412

The male connector you'll need to repin is an OEM only item, but I don't know the part #. Somebody will be along to get that for you in a bit.