2002 toyota tundra

Ebrake is really stiff and not working.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/rear-brake-adjustment-theory-and-practice.99575/

 

That stinks

 

Do you have a question? Maybe even a picture of the rear axle and brake mechanism?

 

Just want to know what i should expect. A lube job or cable replacement i have no pictures rite now.

 

• Check the brakes, brake adjustment. Front pads, check for even thickness on both pads. Advics made the OEM brake pads, their kit contains everything you need to overhaul. Verify the parking brake cable is intact, correctly tensioned, and functioning fully, as it's what keeps the rear brakes auto-adjusted properly and significantly firms up the braking experience. Check the rear shoes, and know how to use the parking brake or star adjuster to set the shoes, 3 out of 4 times when someone has shitty, sloppy, mushy brake pedal it's because (A) the rear brakes aren't adjusted or the auto-adjust isn't working, or (B) someone failed to bleed the LSPV (load sensing proportioning valve) and there's air trapped in the system at that valve which is preventing the rears from engaging correctly. There's a sticky thread to deal with this topic.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/rear-brake-adjustment-theory-and-practice.99575/

• Brake issues: Most of what you need to know for brake overhaul is here. Know this: Improper rear brake adjustment causes a lot of issues, including shudders, shimmies, vibrations, see here for details on how to dial in the rear. If rears are functioning properly, setting the parking brake firmly and releasing 4-5 times in a row should fully dial in the rear drums on the earlier models, though someone mentioned on here, it'll only audo-adjust by braking hard in reverse on the later models? Not sure.

• E-Brake light stuck on: Wear on the parking brake pedal shaft and pin may cause the parking brake light to stay on, more info here.

 

Well, judging by your profile name, I'm guessing you're going to be taking it to a mechanic. Until someone gets in there and diagnoses the problem, it's really hard to tell you what to expect. At least could you tell us if there's rust everywhere under the truck? Here's what I have to offer right now: Expect the worst, hope for the best. Sorry. Very limited information right now.

 

I'll take pictures tomorrow and check for corrosion on any cable areas i can see. And yes I will probably be taking to a mechanic but I'm not against trying to fix myself. It seems seezed up probably for sitting for a while.

 

Do yourself a favor and read the link that @The Black Mamba posted. It will give you a VERY good idea if you have what it takes to do the job.

 

If you live anywhere there's any kind of salt, the bellcranks and equalizer are probably frozen. I took mine out, cleaned them, and covered them in grease before putting the covers back on. Now, I repack them with grease when they start sticking.

 

Guess he gave up and brought it to a mechanic.