2001 Tundra Memory Steer

I have a 2001 Tundra 4x4 Extra-cab with 358,000 miles. It has a memory steer issue that none of the repair shops can figure out. Les Schwab tires is usually good with steering & alignment. The tech their said he's seen many aftermarket rack & pinion units coming in bad, and the only way to tell if they are bad is to install them. I had the rack replaced FOUR TIMES (only one at my cost of course) which of course requires re-alignment each time, and also had the ball joints replaced. Nothing helps.

The Toyota dealer in Folsom, CA said it could be the steering column (they didn't charge me for the diagnosis).

The only choices I can think of are:

• Buy a used OEM rack and try to find someone to install it
• If that doesn't work, buy a used steering column, and again, find someone to install it. I imagine this would be very expensive and probably would just live with the memory steer if the cost is too much.

Anyone else have a similar issue or other suggestions?

I actually saw someone with this same issue on a People's Court episode. The rack was replaced on a woman's Mercedes 3 times, then she was told she would have to pay thousand's of dollars more for an OEM replacement. She ended up winning a partial settlement. No repair shops have done this in my case because they can't order a new OEM rack for my truck.

 

What exactly do you mean by 'memory steer'? Also what are the alignment specs?

 

Take it to the Toyota dealer (or a different trusted shop) to get another opinion. I'm guessing memory steer means the steering does not self center after a turn. Alignment, rack, or possibly the steering pump could cause this. Steering column seems like a stretch. When did it start? Is there whine from the steering system? Fluid is good? verified that fluid is actually cycling through the system and there is no blockage or pinched lines?

 

Memory steer, meaning the steering wheel doesn't self-center after turns. I thought of the power steeing pump but 3 shops said "no". There is no noise, fluids are fine. That's a good suggestion about a pinched line, but I'm guessing there would be the typical squealing noise if that were the case.

 

Do you happen to have a print out of your alignment specs?

Is your suspension stock(not lifted)?

 

Stock suspension. I don't have a printout of the alignment specs. The shop that did the alignments after the rack installs tried different camber (and possibly other) settings and test drives, but no help.

 

Have a look at the u-joints in the steering shaft, if they're binding it may cause your issue. Try spraying them with a penetrant to see if it helps.

 

The rack doesn’t self center, the castor is what centers it.

See if you can post up your alignment specs.

When I got my truck it had seized cam adjusters and the alignment shop said it was as close as they could get it. Turns out they totally lied as all 4 were locked up solid.

 

They should have at least provided the numbers.

Without those someone will need to look it over. Since you're nearby, you could swing by the shop and I could take a peek at it tomorrow afternoon (maybe a quick test drive down the street or something). PM me if you're interested.

 

Attached alignment specs.
Thanks,
Bill

 

Yeah, 1.5 caster left and 1.0 right is why it drives terrible and doesn't return well. Whoever aligned it, did a crap job.

You want around 2.5 caster, -.3 camber and +.10-.20 total toe in.

 

Sucks so much work went into this one already. Wish you'd asked after the 2nd time the rack was replaced. Don't even want to know how much money you spent on this, all because someone probably didn't have the experience required...

 

If they really did align it the other times it could be a bushing. Did you ever check your control arm bushings?

I have a similar problem currently. I hit a piece of 4x4 that fell of a truck in front of me on the freeway. I couldn’t swerve to avoid it or I’d have hit a car or multiple cars. It didn’t totally destroy the bushing, but it did weaken it. My alignment is on, but it pulls right ever so slightly when the wind blows hard or the road is extra rough. I didn’t change it yet because I JUST are replaced the friggin arms a couple weeks ago. It’s not bad yet so I’m just going to wait to fix mine until it’s more noticeable.

 

I've wondered how much toe to add. The DJ specs were .08 I think, but when I did that I still got some bump steer and wandering. It's hard to isolate it because I still have old parts that need to be replaced. Have you run the toe on the higher end and how did it steer and wear?

 

Correct

 

Bump steer is not caused by toe. It is caused by suspension and steering design (tie rod pivot points in relation to control arm and balljoint pivot points).

In any case I've been running .1-.2 for the last year or so and additional caster. It drives much better.

The wander could be the lack of toe-in or too little caster, worn bushings, tire pressure/wear and road conditions.