2000 Tundra new owner with a few questions.

Hello all. Long time toyota truck owner,(previous was a 93 pickup) first time tundra owner.

I recently bought a 2000, access cab, SR5 tundra and I have a few questions. Overall it runs great with lots of power even with 300,000k miles but there are a couple things I want to look into. Its recently had the timing belt, water pump, brakes and ball joints replaced, and then I replaced all the dash lights (including the burnt out 'D' and 'P' light) with LED's.

First off, the brake rotors seem warped (fairly bad vibration on braking) even though the previous owner (a friend of mine) said he replaced them last year....Not a difficult fix but this seems early.

Second, with even a moderate load, say 500lbs in the back, it looks like the truck is squatting pretty badly and aiming the headlights at the sky. Normal for this truck or are my leaf springs shot?

Lastly, it has a mild vibration in 4WD at highway speeds. Previous owner think its a CV axle, he had replaced one and included a new one that he hadn't yet replaced with the truck. Should I replace the other side or look for some other cause?

Also, anything in particular I should look for to go wrong? Except for the stated issues everything seems to work great on this truck.

Thanks everyone.

 

Welcome, congrats on the tundra. Don’t worry about the miles there a lot of these trucks in the 300,000mi range with no major problems. I’d replace pads and rotors/ check or replace rear drums hopefully the previous owner just rode the brakes. For the vibration I’d check the carrier bearing on the rear driveshaft first but it wouldn’t be a bad idea to replace the cv shafts if you already have them. When you do the cv shafts check all bushings tie rod ends etc. these front ends are a not built heavy enough for a full size truck and it’s quite common to find worn out parts.

 

Welcome from Ohio.

 

Welcome from Northeast Connecticut

 

He probably put cheap autozone rotors and pads explaining why they are already showing wear.

I would check carrier bearing like stated about and also check your U joints in your drivelines front and rear.

 

And since it’s a new truck I would replace all fluid, Trans/diffs/transfer

 

Welcome from NY.

 

Totally possible. However, I have been doing some reading here and It seems I do have the calipers that people say are the 'bad' ones that warp rotors, is that a real issue or just something people say?

Yup. Its on my list.

Will do. But since it only happens in 4WD wouldn't that isolate the problem to the front driveline?

And can anyone comment on the squatting in the rear with a moderate load? I mean, I know its going to do it a bit but it seems like it tilts back more than my little 93 pickup did. I'm just wondering if I should invest in air springs or new leaf springs as it just looks ridiculous with a load in it.

 

1) Maybe a ‘stuck’ caliper.
2) Springs could be worn. Or, might be tired old rear shocks. Check age of shocks.
3) Replace other CV.

Welcome from St. Barts south coast. Been hanging out here all month with the spider monkeys.

 

Welcome from NC.

 

Hey Bud,

Welcome.

I'll put my two cents in here. I recently purchased an '02 SR5 Access Cab and have had to address some of the same issues. As far as the brakes are concerned, the factory brakes on the early first gen Tundras are notoriously undersized. This causes the rotors to warp (especially when hauling a load or towing). If you want to put an end to the brake problem for the lifetime of the truck, I would suggest looking into replacing the calipers with 13WL (231mm) calipers. These are still OEM parts, and were used on mid '03 to 06 Tundras. The cost difference is negligible and if you're replacing the parts anyway, go for the upgrade.

Rear sag under load can be a sign the leaf pack and/or shocks are aging. I replaced the leaf pack and shocks. Additionally, I will probably install an airbag kit to help support heavier loads.

Whenever I have experienced a CV going out I can hear it, especially when turning with 4WD engaged. Peak under there and check if the boots are still intact. If the boots are gone and no grease remains, it's time to change them out. I would try to figure out if the axles your buddy purchased are OEM or not. In my experience, OEM axles are the only axles that really last. On other, earlier projects (when I was young and poor), I would run axles from the local parts shop (Autozone, O'Reillys, etc.) because they offer a lifetime warranty (this route only saved me because I was doing the labor).

Hope some of this helps.

Mike

 

Mike above speaks the truth concerning the brake rotors and calipers, and some of us have been talking about it here, feel free to jump in on the discussion if you want to change your calipers over.

 

Welcome from SE PA!

 

Welcome! I agree with what Mike wrote above. I had my 2000 for 18 years and it was painful to sell it. I wanted so bad to keep it and build it, but I don't have the space and I needed more truck.

If you don't want to switch the calipers to the 13 WL you can try what I did and it worked well for me. Check my profile for my detailed post about it (I don't post much so it is easy to find). I recall that mine seemed to sag more than expected with heavy loads in the bed (maybe not as much as what you describe.). I switched shocks and added airbags for towing, it was all I needed to do. With 300K miles, you still may need to change the leaf pack.

 

Just noticed you are in Montana too. What part?

 

North of Missoula.

 

So just as an example of what I am talking about with the rear end seeming to squat excessively....this is with 900lbs centered over the rear axle. Just trying to get an idea if this is normal for the truck and I should get some air springs, or if I should replace the leaf springs.

I would expect it to look like this fully loaded but as I understand it, max capacity is supposed to be 1700lbs so this is just over half and to me it seems a little extreme if you compare the wheel well spacing between front and back.

 

What is your current suspension set up? And its age?

 

Damn. I had 400lb in the bed and about a 4000lb trailer hooked on and didn't sag that bad. I think your springs gave up.

 

Hmm. Anyone know what a bed full of semi-wet mulch weighs? That's about how low my truck was when full of mulch.

 

Stock and 19 years old as far as I know.

But this is my first Tundra so I don't have anything to compare it to.

 

You probs could start with doing some new shocks all around and then work up to new rear springs if the rear shocks don’t improve the rear sag. My 02’ with 1600lbs. looks like yours with 900lbs.

My 02’ just had the front end rebuilt which was much needed because she was very tired and squeaking up there. Had rear shocks put on too (Billy 5100) and the rear lifted about a 1/2” afterwards (I know some will say shocks don’t give lifts but it did for the 02’). The new shocks have a thicker piston rod than the old ones which gives good rigidity for towing/hauling.

Start out with new shocks and then move on to new springs if needed. Guys say doing the rears are easy DIY. Maybe just do the back two shocks?

 

Well, shocks are certainly a very easy and affordable place to start. I don't see how they would actually help either as the springs are supposed to hold the suspension up and the shocks just slow the bounce but its probably worth doing anyway.

 

Easy start is the key place. Go ahead and do the springs too. Its your truck and money.

 

Sure. I'm just trying to figure out if new springs would actually do anything or if I need extra springs in some form. Some things I've read on other forums say that the first gen Tundras had a soft suspension in the rear which would suggest I should add airbags, helpers springs etc instead of getting new stock springs.

 

My 02’ springs have been hauling and towing since it was new. Original springs. They do not sag when empty.

You put up a pic with 900lbs. My 02’ has that same sag at 1600lbs. (max. playload).

Put up a pic with empty weight. Should have a slight forward rake.

New springs and shocks will help any vehicle. Springs cost more than new rear shocks.

 

My profile pic is with no weight. I do not notice a forward rake.....I wonder if a previous owner installed a leveling kit? There is a spacer in the front spring/shock tower but I don't know if that is a lift or stock. I will try and take a pick and maybe someone can tell me.

Indeed, but new springs are fairly expensive so I don't want to buy them unless they are actually the problem.

 

Have you checked on any issues in regards to frame rust?

 

Looks like maybe someone tried ‘leveling’ the truck and now when you have weight in the bed you suffer from ‘bro lean’. The dynamics are messed up.

Here is how OEM looks (with Billy 5100 one notch up on the fronts which is 1/4” lift). Rear is stock height/springs with Billys.