20 AG trd pro jbl premium , tech12volts audio package options?

everyone seems to like the audio packages offered by tech12volts. looking at his website it seems he offers 3 packages for a '20.
jbl/jl/hertz
kenwood/hertz
infinity/hertz
can anyone tell me the differences between the 3 and why one would choose one over the other?
some of the packages do not come with dash speakers would you add those?
the hertz k170 components are offered with all 3 packages, i have never heard of hertz, to those of you that have them are you happy with em? would you upgrade them if you were doing it over again?

 

Hertz makes pretty decent speakers. The K170s are an entry option from them, focused more around loudness or SPL. Basically they produce sound that most people will be pleased with. If you want a system that is louder, has dynamics, like bass you can feel then you should be pleased with them. If youre more interested in speakers that have more accuracy and sound more like real instruments and vocals I would either opt for a higher end Hertz speaker, or look to Focal, Audio Frog, or Morel.

 

Thank you for the very straightforward reply, exactly the type of info i was looking for much appreciated elduder

 

Got an email back from james. apparently the website is out of date and the only package hes currently offering is the jbl/hertz package

https://www.shop.tech12volts.com/product.sc?productId=529&categoryId=124

1 custom sub enclosure for crewmax or doublecab .

1 JBL Audio Club 5505 5 channel amp

1 hertz k170 6.5 compoenents front

1 hertz k 170 6.5 components rear

1 JBL Audio Club 1200 12 inch subwoofers (option 2-10's)

60 feet of 14 gauge speaker wire

1 4 gauge EFX BY SCOSCHE OFC wire kit

2 sets of speaker mounting brackets for doors with harnesses


anyone care to weigh in on this setup? anybody running it?

 

Subscribed.

 

Same here...looking for any additional info as I’m looking to order this package in the next week or so.

 

What is your budget? I could give you a ton of recommendations, but budget is the first roadblock.

Also, do you typically carry passengers in the back?

 

If it helps the package he is referencing is about $1000 including shipping, so that’s a good guess (and that’s my budget as well).

 

Make sure you let James know you you have the jbl system. I believe you will need a dsp like the

$295 Rockford fosgate dsr1 8-Channel Interactive Signal Processor w/Integrated iDatalink Maestro Module

Rockford fosgate dsr1

 

Highly Recommended James is the BOSS...

 

Thanks guys id like to keep everything under 2.5k with sound deadening and all, but i haven't really set a budget yet. its been a good number of years since ive looked into the whole car stereo arena, so im kinda just figuring out the new takes on everything... key considerations im looking into are

"buy once cry once build"
-need to keep factory hu
- active crossover with 2 separate amps for doors and sub vs just passive crossovers and 1 multi channnel amp
- 2-10" vs 1-12"
-what to do about the front dash and center (dont really want to just unhook them, but i dont want them to be overpowering[so more channels on the amp or eq or something?])
-quality components, i like midbass and depth too bright can be harsh to my ears

I thought i was getting a "premium" system in the first place. I dont want to spend all this extra effort and cash to be second guessing myself down the road if i should have spent a little more. At the same time i dont like pissing money away.

Im working on a couple of lists of set-ups im leaning towards that i figured id bounce off of you guys and James and make adjustments from there.

 

- active crossover with 2 separate amps for doors and sub vs just passive crossovers and 1 multi channnel amp
Not sure your level of experience here, so just going to approach this as if your asking a question with little or experience. Generally speaking, active cross using a DSP or DSP amp (because digital processing is required to be active) is geared toward stage presence and spacial dynamics of sound. Basically making it sound as real as possible, involving getting sounds to not just be left and right, but high, low, delayed or distant, advanced or close. If that's the goal, running rear speakers will work against that as it will literally pull the staging backward. Either you run subs or low band in the rear, or no speakers at all. Comps in the rear with the front active sounds like an excellent way to waste money and a lot of time. Not trying to come across like an ass here, just being straight about it. Basically if you're going to ignore the main reason for active, which is controlling the staging of each speaker, and run rear speakers, then just stay with the passive crossovers included with the speakers. Honestly a lot of passive speakers crossovers are better than some people are with tuning.

2-10" vs 1-12"
If youre keeping the rear seats installed, go 2-10s, all day. You will have so little excursion on the shallows available that its better to just double up the subs. To get a 12 that would perform well enough to mitigate the biggest issue we have with our trucks and space for subs, you would be looking at something like the JL TW3s which run ~$370. So either go big on one or just get two.

what to do about the front dash and center
Again, if youre going active, remove the center channel, you will have no way to blend it with out an additional DSP channel and then tying the wires into the DSP and back out. You wont miss it once you have good power to the doors and proper tuning. The dash corners should be removed since you will be running tweeters with your comp. set up.

quality components, i like midbass and depth too bright can be harsh to my ears
Shop for speakers known to be "warm" then. Focals arent your friend if you dont like bright. Morels are a better choice, but spendy. The Tempo Ultras are awesome and reasonably affordable. Morels passive crossovers are legit and tuned with a very low cross for the tweets. Brings the vocals higher up as well as the strings, they know their shit. Infinities higher end models are a good neutral sound, worth considering. Audio Frog is also on the warmer side and worth a look.


Something you hadn't mentioned, but based off your comment here, I recommend getting good power to the speakers, not like 45 or 50W, more like 100W. The change in speaker dynamics, the power that drives the magnetic changes when you have more power makes things punchier, more real and distinct, gives you that depth you want. More power is better than less, you could spend a ton of money on parts and then under drive them and be left with lackluster sound and then feel like its the speakers or tuning. I know saying more is better will open the can of worms for some, triggers the " watch out for clipping", "stock wiring cant take it", or "you'll fry the speakers", its not that simple, but if you want or need to know more about that just ask.

Of course, if I'm ranting about things you already fully understand, then excuse me and just tell me you're good, lol.

 

My invoice from James (he installed):
JL package with Hertz doors
Hertz MPK Coaxials Front Doors and DT24.3 Tweeters
Rear JL C1 650
RD 900/5 Amp
2 JL 10w1 Subs and Custom Box, all wire, sail panels, and sub knob
4 rolls of sound shield
1 DSR1 processor (for JBL system only)

I kept the JBL head unit...the upgrade in speakers, amp, and processor is incredible. Before, the stereo in my Crosstrek was better than the Tundra. Now, the volume on 30 rocks it out - good cruising sounds...bass vibrates the ass.

 

@Elduder my experience level is somewhat low and i was more just learning what the advantages there might be, again you have cleanly cleared up something that was confusing me a bit. i was thinking that i might not actually need active and it is probably a bit more involved than i need. the multi channel amps however seem like you end up underpowering the subs a little. completely agree on power so i was thinking id make my speaker choices and then choose the amp/amps based on needs. and your not ranting at all sir the info is much appreciated and there are others following along as well so please feel free...

@GREENwithENVY that looks like a nice setup and probably very similar to what i will end up with, the jl c2 650's are on my list of possible components (also thats a nice truck ya got there!)

 

James is great to deal with, offers specific options for the Toyota Tundra and at a more than fair price point. That said, if you’ve ever installed on your own, and are willing to do some legwork you could save a few dollars by doing it all yourself. I went with the plug and play amplifier and did my own speakers.....focal and Memphis are the brands I went with. I suggest 6x9’s for the fronts for increased bass response and 6.5’s in the rear with a pancake Powered subwoofer under the rear seat

 

Speakers first and then amp to suit their needs is a good way to go. I have the JL C2 690tx in our 4Runner, its the 6x9 C2 coaxial. C2s are good speakers, just dont get the coaxials for the front, go with the component set. The 4runner has tweeters in the dash and the C2 coax in the door and the sound stage is about as high as my mid chest. I dont prefer it that way, but my wife is not the audiophile and doesnt mind it.

 

Heres what i have so far still need to map out a few other options and some items are still missing pricing is just to give me a ball park....
borowed the spreadsheet from someone on here i believe just tweaking it to suit my needs

https://onedrive.live.com/embed?cid=41E20544AE5CA65C&resid=41E20544AE5CA65C!259&authkey=AIwGkmJzAyfC2Zo&em=2

 

B1C1 Audio Syste B1C1 Audio System 1 1.xlsxm 1 1 1.Pdf

https://onedrive.live.com/embed?res...e&wdDownloadButton=True&wdInConfigurator=True

 

Think ive narrowed it down to these 3 builds, the morrels look nice but thats starting to get out of my price range. does anyone run alpine subs anymore? i liked the type r's way back when....
JL Audio C2650 $540
JL Audio 10TW1-2 $520
JL Audio XD700/5v2 $680


Focal Performance PS 165F $770
Focal Performance P25FS $280
Alpine PDX-V9 $850

Alpine X-S65C plus r-s65c.r rear $640
Alpine SWR-T12 $410
Alpine PDX-V9 $850

https://onedrive.live.com/embed?res...e&wdDownloadButton=True&wdInConfigurator=True

 

I would really like to see how these systems respond once someone installs them in their Tundra. If any of you have tuned the system and have an RTA curve that you can provide it would be greatly appreciated.

 

Curious as well, but already committed, bought the system and matting from James. Shopped around audio installers in the area and just nuts on pricing for equipment and installs. Started @3K partial to 5k to 6K for someone to do it. My cheap a$$ said, you know you did this as a kid so lets give it a go again. The components in the kit are very reasonable and reviewed really well. Plus its enough to grow from if you ever you decide you want more out of it, the hard work would be done.