2 1/2” lift alignment ideas

So I finally found a late night to put my lift on. Did a revtek 2 1/2” up front and put in a long procomp add a leaf in the back, plus ended up adding an extra 1” block cause I had one laying around, and I wanted a little rake after I saw it just with the leaf in. I ran a similar setup on my Tacoma for 7 years and it was really good to me, so I’m going that route again.

As good as my eyeball alignment is riding, obviously I’m taking it to a good guy this week for a real one.

has anyone considered opening up the rear lower control arm holes to the outside of the frame so that you can slide the control arm out a little further? It would possibly work to get within factory specs and also push your tire a little more forward away from the body mount. I went with 275/65/20’s and there’s no rubbing anyways at the moment with the winter tires I’m using as my test subjects.

Opening up those holes would screw up the rotational adjustments for the cam bolts but possibly there’s a way to relocate those metal tabs that the alignment bolts rotate in. I’m sure I can figure it out, mods are my life. Just wondering if anyone has ever tried that?!?!?

 

Personally, I think it’s a bad idea. I don’t see how you could make it where the bolts wouldn’t eventually come loose and waller out the holes even more.

 

No. Do not do that. The cam tabs won’t line up inside of the guides. This is what adjustable UCAs are for.

 

Think about this tho, you make new plates and replace the existing ones, there’s tons of meat on the frame, you just set them up around an extra 1/2” outboard. I think it can be done properly and still be essentially the same as OEM.
With the arms pushed down further right now, you front end is actually slightly narrower than before, this would get your stance back to the right width as well. Adjustable uppers keep it narrower and also make you need higher offset wheels, this way you can run stockers without spacers. It also gets your wheels forward more, as opposed to adjustable uppers which will set them back closer to the body mount. I really think I’m onto something here.

 

The limiting factors might be the range of motion on the upper ball joints, I’d have to pop one out and see if it could still handle the extra movement outwards.
Step one is get it on the rack and see how far off the alignment is

 

Yea I see no issue with what you're saying. It's already common to brace/replace the tabs the cams push on so not much more to just move the whole alignment feature outwards within reason.

Good luck not getting backlash, this forum doesn't push much beyond the realm of bolt ons, but if you're a halfway decent fabricator it should be easy to do and maintain the strength and alignment of everything.

 

Bad idea. I would not modify suspension components on a new truck, or any vehicle at that.