1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Was the solonoid click louder than normal? Or was the click the bendix engaging?

 

Preach it. I hate the newfangled air system controls.

 

I always wondered what a led retrofit would look like on those vintage glass headlights. Too bad many of them were sealed beam.

 

I did not

 

I liked the sliders. Call me weird.

 

Not weird at all. Wish we had those. That’s my favorite part about looking at interior photos of classics. Forget the 427, just show me the slider air control.

 

https://youtu.be/5HtVYr9aKRM?si=1mE4IzGC0PyfW5pY

 

I tried jumping it first. Nada.

It has a nice solid click. I'd say normal.

 

Starter contacts?

 

When mine go out, you get occasional clicks these days, usually just starts, then it progresses to usually clicks, occasionally starts. Yours just abruptly not starting and only clicking doesn’t match my usual symptoms, so can’t say for sure your problem is contacts based on my experience alone.

 

This pic immediately brought back memories of my dad’s 1980s F150. I dunno if that’s the vehicle the pic is from but it totally reminded me of that.

 

Latest tool purchase. I like it.
On sale for $49(tool only) at HD.

 

How many volts from the battery?

 

All those milwaukee bros were tossing batteries back & forth so much, it was more like smear the steer instead of keep away. My 12v pump was a little slower, but i didnt have any battery anxiety.

 

18V.

I have a much bigger SmittyBilt air compressor that I use for the truck but this is nice not having to deal with a cord and plug in. Good for small jobs. I'm keeping it in Ravioli for now.

It also has a 12V cord if the battery dies.

 

When do you get the Rigid coffee/cappuccino maker? Is that the Christmas gift from the wife?

Edit: Strangely, Makita makes a battery powered coffee maker.

 

Doing my lower ball joints today and first one the castle nut was probably held on there just by the cotter pin and then when I went to press it out it just fell right out. You guys think that was a close to failure? Haha

 

Shouldn't it be like 12.6v?

 

I got a check engine light today, shows O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 2. I replaced that one with OEM a year and a half ago. Since the other 3 have 274K mile on them I was thinking I might as well replace all 4.
Someone here said to use the Hitachi ones and they were around 50 bucks each. I have been searching for that post for the last 45 minutes and can't find it. Can't find Hitachi sensors anywhere on the internet either to fit a 2006 Tundra.
Anyone have the Hitachi parts numbers? Or should I buy Denso?
I went to several Toyota websites and they say they are #89467-0C010 and # 89465-0C160 but show contradicting information about which is upstream and which is downstream.
Also, does anyone know offhand what size thread chaser to buy?

 

I had this code and cleaned my MAFs and throttle bottle reset the code and haven’t had an issue been about 1 1/2 years

 

Thanks. I cleaned my MAF and throttle body a month ago, it probably wouldn't hurt to buy a new MAF sensor too, since it's the original.

 

Denso is OEM on coil packs and O2 + air/fuel ratio sensors. Look up the part "EXACT FIT" part number at www.densoautoparts.com and DO NOT order from fleaBay or scAmazon.

Hitachi is OEM on the MAF, and you can buy anywhere, although most local parts stores charge a premium, sometimes marking up double what Summit Racing or Rock Auto charges.

 

Denso has "OE identical" I guess that means exact fit, but they don't specify which one is upstream and which one is downstream. Am I to assume the one they call "air fuel ratio sensor" to be upstream? They have that one and it costs $155 each, part # 234-9051 OEM is only around $100.
They do have the other one (downstream?) part # 234-4260 for $51 each.
Some of the Toyota OEM parts websites specified "left side".....are left and right different?

 

I’m not 100% but usually upstream is more expensive

 

Do you guys put the grease in the boot like the instructions say or on the actual rod?

 

I rub a bunch in and pivot the spindle around to work it in, slather a bunch on, then pack the remainder in the boot. I don't trust things to work their way in naturally.

For a sec there I thought you installed the UBJ upside down, then I remembered I have aftermarket UCA and the bearing is in the arm

 

Denso is the actual OEM manufacturer. If you look at your factory sensors you will see "DENSO" screened/etched onto the neck of the sensor.

Air/fuel ratio is upstream.
O2 is downstream.
Parts can be different depending on whether you're 2WD or 4WD, manual or auto trans, sometimes 2WD or 4WD may use different left/right upstream or downstream sensors.

Which truck are you shopping for?

Like, the upstream for the 2006 is this:

​

And for the downstream, it appears your left/right on the 2006 is the same part, else it would say "required Qty: 1" and give some other info. But always ALWAYS get the 'Direct Fit' part.

Your 2004 may be different. EDIT: Nope, I looked up the 2004 and it's the same part numbers.

​

 

Thanks, Shifty, I'm ordering the 4 O2 sensors, MAF sensor and thread chaser from Summit, $440 shipped. I hope they last another 100K miles.

 

Hahaha Spc uppers are on the list but couldn’t beat new upper ball joints for 45 bucks, I figured I might as well do them.

 

@Sirfive
Choochin