1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

I can find 17” Tundra wheels with 285/70/17s all day on FBMP

 

I have the same leak in the driver side A-pillar, I'm going to have the windshield replaced before winter so hopefully the windshield guy can find the leak. I hope its nothing major either like rusted out, its a cali truck so I hope not.

 

Mine had some rust. Probably has more now.

 

I guess ill find out out one of these days lol

 

I don't want to hype it all up and then you be disappointed, but I found them to be a game changer.

 

$55 VCT Pneumatic Auto Body Air Punch & Crimper Crimping Flange Flanger Tool Pipe

https://www.amazon.com/VCT-Pneumatic-Crimper-Crimping-Flanger/dp/B08CTM8R94?smid=A1KWDWQRT5FP7U

 

I've only had my 265/75/16s for a week or so but I am really really loving them. I am noticing a slight MPG decrease around town, I'd be scared to go any bigger. IMO it's a fantastic tire size.

 

I'm guessing there's some mix of expectation, weight, load rating and size that determines whether or not you can live with a bigger tire. When I bought my Tundra it had brand new, 265 70 16 really cheap highway tires. So that was my baseline.

Then I had 265 75 16 LRE A/T tires put on, and I was not happy. Aside from the rubbing, it cornered and took bumps kinda weird, felt a bit unstable, way slower acceleration and more shifting on the highway. I never towed with them, but obviously the power and shifting would have been even worse.

I dropped to a 255 70 16 and they feel great on the truck. But in addition to the size, they're 10lbs lighter each, mostly because they're just wimpy P-rated tires. That's significant. Way less weight, more flex, less tread depth.

Next time I buy tires I'll try to find a 245 75 16 in at least LRC (but hopefully less than E). I think that'll be the best compromise for my diverse driving needs.

 

This is the exact reason I didn't have the guts to commit to a bigger tire for so long. I was just worried that the truck would drive like shit. I literally debated over what tire to get for an entire year.

I'd be curious to know your thoughts on a 265/75/R16 LRC tire. Like I said earlier I love mine so far. Since they're load range C, they're only 2lbs heavier than stock per corner despite being an inch taller. I really haven't noticed anything different driving experience wise- and I'm picky. If you're ever in the Chicago or Milwaukee areas let me know, you can take my truck for a spin.

 

I won't be disappointed. They'll be paired with other power mods, similar to my other truck on 33's and 4.56's.

 

This. Seeing all this talk about drivability makes me chuckle. I can see @KNABORES point about towing though. I think 275 would be a solid halfway point honestly. Seems to be a sweet spot on most platforms between size, performance, and aesthetic without giving up too much compromise.

I’m 22lbs heavier than factory before even factoring in the wheel. Don’t know the factory wheel specs, but I’m over 100lbs/corner. Stock gears and drivetrain minus exhaust and if it was unbearable to drive I would have geared it already. Is it slow? Yeah, but I’d say it feels like throwing on camper shell or rack and RTT for comparison and you get used to it lol.

 

I appreciate it! It's very unlikely I'll be in your area, but you never know. I'm curious how things would have turned out if I hadn't had to go LRE with the 265 75s. Seems like the tire brand matters, too, as far as weight and true size. Many (maybe most?) people with 265 75 16 don't rub, but mine definitely rubbed. A different tire brand might not have. A different load range might not have. The difference in tread depth on the same tire in different load ranges was significant. Or at least it was significant comparing P-rated to LT. I really wanted Falken Wildpeaks, and that's how I got painted into a corner...My options in the neighborhood of stock were 245 75 16 LRE, 265 75 16 LRE, or what I ended up with - P255 70 16, but XL (extra load). They don't come in the stock size, 265 70 16.

I'm no tire expert. But in the past, all my truck tires have been LRC. It's just what they gave me, never had to specifically ask, and always available in my stock size (for the Tacoma - 31 x 10.50 15). I just assumed I'd be able to get what I wanted...so I didn't do my research, and rather than stepping back and reassessing, I rushed, and got the closest I could to stock, without going oversize, and without going LRE. Now that I'm planning to put a camper in the bed, I'm regretting the P-rated tire. XL or not, they're going to be borderline.

What I want is an LT tire, not a P. I don't want E. C seems to be the sweet spot. But I'll bet I could have tolerated the first tire the shop suggested: LT 245 75 16 LRE. I still don't prefer the E, but I'll bet I could have tolerated it in a skinnier tire that didn't rub. Who knows. So hard to tell without driving on the actual tire. For me the 265 75s had too many strikes against them. Oversize, which I hadn't actually wanted. LRE, which I didn't think I need. AND they rubbed. I'd be willing to tolerate rubbing if I specifically wanted an oversize tire, but I didn't, so I wasn't willing to put up with it. LRE was just icing on the cake. And they were heavy.

If I had it my way, ideally...265 70 16 LRC, or 245 75 16 LRC.

 

I also have a 2001 ford Econoline E350 van. I use it for construction and as a motovan for road trips. It has a 5.4 V8, but with the stock sized 245/75-16 tires it was pretty darn gutless. Living in oregon means that there are hills, mountains, and headwinds to traverse. The van totally sucked with the 245’s. The transmission would hunt between 3rd and overdrive when hitting mild hills or even heavy headwinds. Passing another vehicle while towing even a small trailer was not an option. I decided to go for broke and buy new smaller tires for it. A new ring and pinion gear was also an option, but tires were more simple. I bought a set of BFG AT LT225/75-16E. It was an absolute game changer of the power delivery! The transmission finally shifted like it should. It loves cruises down the interstate at about 62mph (i’d drive faster, but then i’d just be pushing a square brick through the air). And with those smaller tires, there’s more room in the wheel wells, so people think that van is lifted and i get quite a few questions if it’s 4wd (it’s a 2wd van).

 

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Tap wrench (?)

 

Condensation?

 

I have LT265/75R16 6 ply (load range C) Open Range (Les Schwab) tires on both my 2004 and 2006 and they don't rub. Both RCLB trucks are not lifted. I love these tires. There are very few choices in Load Range C, which in my opinion is the only thing that belongs on a half ton pickup. Passenger car tires are strictly for pavement and "E" tires are for one ton trucks. See my rant here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/what-happened-to-6-ply-load-range-c-tires.90467/
In the past I always ran LT245/75R16 tires but I found that the 265's greater diameter rides better, glides over potholes rather than falls in them and the extra sidewall smooths things out. Some may not like that much sidewall because of cornering lean, but I drive mostly interstate so it doesn't bother me. I'm old and I need ride quality.
My 2004 had 17" wheels when I bought it and LT265/70R17 which also did not rub. They were "E" tires so I got rid of them and bought some 16" factory mag wheels.

 

Unfortunately not. Copper pipe is leaking. Gonna remove more sheetrock so I can access it, then go from there.

 

Time to call Billy Mays! Flex Seal that shit!

Do you ever check the water pressure in your house with a gauge? Do you ever hear your copper pipes hammer when turning on or shutting off the water, or running it at low levels?

(I’m kidding on the flex seal btw)

 

Developers use thin type M copper pipe which gets pinholes after 25 years. Type L is thicker and better. Also some plumbers don't wipe off the flux after soldering and that helps the pinholes get started.

 

Little piss ant leak...I almost didn't see this. Thought it was a spider web.

Any way to fix this without cutting this section out?

 

Not rewriting this one, so you get copy pasta. Sharkbite is really the way to go IMHO, but involves measuring and cutting.

https://www.reddit.com/r/askaplumber/comments/jesmdi/hopefully_you_all_will_find_this_helpful_heres/

Also

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZnGctJiYPjc

 

Yes I do hear that occasionally. Mainly on the opposite end of the house when I turn on the kitchen sink water.

 

Your water pressure regulator ("WPR") may be fucked, and extra pressure in your lines will help contribute to leaks, in add'n to what Dook mentioned.

The gauge to test, which screws onto any home bib outside the house, only costs a couple bucks. You typically want to see pressures under 90-100psi for residential IIRC but I always hafta go look it up.

Some WPR are serviceable. Mine is. Mine shit the bed (as did my neighbors, all houses built within months of one another) about 15 years in. I hate working w/copper, and I wasn't happy the builder put the shutoff valve AFTER the WPR, so I called a plumber in to install a ball valve before/after my WPR so I could replace and/or service it myself by shutting off the water from the street, and into the house, remove the WPR or tear it down.

Over time, the WPR just gets worn out or jammed up and often times go WOT. It's a regular maintenance item in your home.

 

I actually had that replaced when we bought the house in 2021. The inspector recommended it. Copper pipes are 33 years old now.

 

Piece of rubber and a hose clamp over it; the U of A way. It’s a temp repair that can last years!!!

 

I believe @FrenchToasty has quick and dirty repair for these using a piece of garden hose and a hose clamp.

Edit: he was posting as I wrote this

 

This is the way! That's the 1st link.

For a more-perm fix I'd sharkbite it.

 

@Dook55 is probably right about it being type M, more pinholes will show their faces as time goes on. And you might be onto something about the wpr.
We have a 4 story 300+ unit all done in type M copper, we have a rack in the on call room full of rubbers and hose clamps…..