06 tundra 1445 code

Hey guys my 06 tundra just threw a code 1445 : secondary air injection system switching valve Number 2 bank 2 stuck closed. Does anyone know what side this is on and which component is it?
Thanks

 

Bank 2 if similar to your O2 sensors is the passenger side.

Plan to replace it or do the Hewitt bypass?

 

I’m in California. I forgot to mention. Is it still okay to drive for the next few months? Is it the air injector pump or the valve?

 

I’m not sure myself as I own an 02 and don’t have it. Lucky me.

I thought normally any code throw relating to it required a replacement pump and due to the cost, most purchase the bypass so they never have to worry about it again but being California maybe you need a working one instead?

 

It runs fine for now . I did a google search and some people had it go into limp mode. Being in ca sucks and smog is due July. I heard about that bypass kit and in another forum someone said a smog tech that sees the bypass will fail you.

 

If it's truly P1445 and not P2445, you may be in luck.

SAI (secondary air injection) system uses a rotary vacuum style pump under the intake manifold.

There are also a series of SAI valves mounted at the back of the block, just below the intake manifold, difficult or nearly impossible to get to w/o removing the intake manifold.

Those valves are actuated (opened/closed) by these solenoids on your passenger side head (bank 2) that have the brown colored connectors on them, so obviously you'll want to verify none of these vacuum hoses are fucked or disconnected due to user error.

In a sec, I'll find a video that shows a guy testing the solenoids, which is the first step I'd take, AFTER you verify those hoses are intact, and you check the hoses where they route back to the valve bodies on the back of the block. It's possible one got unplugged for bank 2, I just can't remember if the valves are always open or always closed, if in fact they're normally closed, and the vacuum is what opens it, a hose being broken or disconnected would cause the valve to remain closed/"stuck", eh?

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This video shows how to test the solenoids, 2nd video shows how to replace the valves, and will give you a better idea of the problem! It may just be the solenoid failed, and the job to replace is easy peasy! Or a vacuum line is cracked. Worst case, the valve failed. I found a doc which covers diagnostics (link) but that delves into the pump, not the valves/solenoids.

Checking the solenoids, long video, but it gives fundamental knowledge as this guy drudges through it as I'd do if I weren't trained on it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AexcFsZM6eo
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Valve replacement....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-gv0RylT--4​

 

And one more reference point.

Red line is your PCV vent hose for bank 5 head. Yellow line is the vacuum actuator/vapor line for the fuel pressure regulator bank 2. The 4 green lines indicate the solenoid vacuum hoses you're concerned with. Note on this engine, the two solenoid vacuum lines route over into that mesh sleeve, where they proceed to the back of the head to the valves. I'm assuming one of the solenoids fires off bank 2 valve, the other fires off bank 1 valve. I think there are only two valves, one for each exhaust manifold? And note the long green line (look above the red arrow), which is where the solenoids pull vacuum off the intake or intake tube!! All those lines need to be intact, attached, and crack-free! At our ages, these rubber vacuum lines LOVE to split at the ends. Each of those 5 individual lines represents one unique span of hose, separate from the other.

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Man thanks for all info. Yeah I hooked up my scan tool and it was 1445 manufacturer control. I took it to oreillys and scanned it with a print out.

 

Lucky dog, I'd rather deal with a solenoid or valve than the SAI pump.

Let me know if you need more info than what's above. I think I'd start two posts up, with the colored lines showing the hoses.

If the hoses are OK, then I'd watch that 1st video and test the solenoid functions.

Ultimately what jams up the valves (supposedly) is the foam seals of the SAI pump disintegrating and clogging up the solenoids, or gumming up the valves.

 

Thanks yeah I’m going to check it out. I’ve got another car that is out of service. Gotta get that one back running before I get involved with this one.

 

Totally get it, thankfully everything up to the point of "replacing the valve" itself is easy work, requiring zero disassembly. Just watching a video and repeating the steps.

This issue could be something utterly stupid, like a broken vacuum line, harness for the solenoids there is unplugged or needs to be unseated/reseated, vacuum line going forward to the intake got unplugged when someone had the intake tube off recently, vacuum hose to the valve in the back popped off for bank 2 unexpectedly, etc.

As long as you don't need to replace an actual valve itself, there's zero reason (beyond "no time") to do a cursory dig. Especially if you have a vacuum hand pump/gauge. If you've ever bought one of those inexpensive vacuum bleed kits at Harbor Freight or similar, you may have everything you need to dig really deep, again, without being remotely invasive.

 

Is it okay to drive it? This is an emissions issue?

 

There is literally no issue. Other than state mandate, and the function of a system that is intended to help burn off extra gasses.

There are a lot of times I'll patronize ignorant people who think, like, an upstream O2 (air/fuel ratio) sensor code is unimportant, because they don't understand that's a sensor the ECU uses to set your air/fuel mixture, which helps you in the long run. This is not one of those cases. The SAI system - and I'm open to anyone contradicting me here - but it's there solely to warm things up more rapidly for efficient combustion. In no way will it cause the engine severe impedement or, say, foul your cats, or similar spendy side effects.

The reality is, your local friendly trucking company is going to be costing 1,000x more emissions problems than your SAI system not functioning properly. It's - in my opinion - safe to ignore.

That said, the basic diagnostics I've explained/shown above ... I'd do them. Becauase they're so easy a mentally handicapped person could do them, and they'll resolve the check engine light in your dash, which let's be real, it would REALLY suck if you misssed a more-critical code because this code was lit. If anything, that should be everyone's motivation behind fixing their vehicle when that CEL (check engine light) was lit for some other inconsequentila problem.

(sorry for the rant)

 

Hey guys I haven’t gotten to looking at my tundra since I’m still working on my other car. I went to drive it right now and the “check eng “ light isn’t ON. I didn’t do anything or clear any codes. WTF? The only thing I can think off is it is hot as hell in San Diego right now. Last week it was cold. I dont know. I’ll keep an eye on it but isn’t that weird the check engine light went off on its own?

 

SAI codes aren't permanent IIRC. They only pop when the issue is active.

Any code reader, even the cheap ones, will typically tell you if there are codes pending.

 

Did O'reilly not clear the code ?

If they did, it takes two separate driving cycles before the ECM would trigger a check engine for that code. Toyota has P1445 as a "2 trip detection logic"

Your "hot as hell" Cali wx could play a part also. I'll trade you for our in the teen temperatures.

 

Knock sensor codes too, that's been driving me absolutely nuts with bank 1 voltage flux. Either bad sensor or wiring glitch. But it's so inconsistent, I'll only pop a code once in a blue moon, and it appears to be on the 2nd consecutive trip of the condition happening. Only happens when dead-cold start, and always in the first 2 minutes of startup, even if I'm idling. One of these days I need to pop off the intake...

 

So it’s been a couple weeks with 6 drives. The light hasn’t come back on. I’m just going to leave it for now.