05 Tundra Lmtd Lift & Tires Recommendations

Greetings! My husband and I have a stock 2005 Tundra Limited (4x4) to play with.

I have been looking through so many forums on our options and still don’t have it nailed down what to order.

We want a moderately aggressive look to our truck but we read that lifts become more damaging to the vehicle after 2.5”. We wanted 4-4.5”. Thoughts?

Recommendations in a lift that doesn’t change the way the truck handles too much?

I have a rough country 2.5 coil over lift kit in my cart ready to buy, but I’m really hoping for the 4-4.5”…how can we get there? We want to ride 33s or 35s… suggestions?

Maybe 2.5” suspension lift and a 2” body lift???

could use the help! Also what tires and rims would fit…

we are willing to get whatever, and install ourselves, just need to know what to get.

thanks!!

let me also mention that we plan on sparing no expense on this truck. We love it and want to keep it for another 10-15 years. We would like to upgrade all we can do it lasts and functions well.

we have already installed a new muffler and exhaust on it and were surprised that we did indeed gain in fuel efficiency.

 

Any lift exceeding three inches in height will cause the suspension geometry to change.

You'll need new upper control arms to help correct some of that.

Is the truck 4WD? If so, that complicates things further as you will need a front differential drop kit.

Others will be along shortly with more info.

 

It is a 4x4. Is there a kit out there that has everything in it? Upper control arms and differential drop kit?

 

This lift, for example, doesn’t include either control arms or differential drop kit. I have no idea how to judge if it is worth it or not.

 

Don't mistake my direct-ness for rudeness. I didn't have a lot of time to reply.

Very critical piece of info: What cab type? What works for Double Cab (DC) doesn't necessarily work for Regular Cab (RC/RCLB) and Access Cab (AC). Many kits are targeting DC trucks with V8/4WD, using those same lifts on an AC/RC truck will push you into the danger zone of travel/articulation (see link near the end of this reply for clear example).

Whatever you do, don't mistake a 1st Gen Tundra for a Ford, Dodge, or GM pickup. You're not going to eek much (if any) power out of the engine with aftermarket add-ons. Don't do air intakes on this truck, it will hurt more than help. Lifting it is a different ballgame from those other brands, IMHO. If you want to go overboard, probably better to go get one of those, and suffer with the inferior reliability. It's all a trade-off.

Have you spoken with a specialist, like someone at Toytec, or Josh @ 1stGenOffroad.com or @memario1214 with Hotshot Offroad? I think Toytec and Hotshot are both board vendors but may be wrong. All are very easy to deal with

These two statements are in conflict with one another. 4-5" is significant and will change the way the truck handles, as will the roller combo you'll need to throw on the truck so it doesn't look goofy when lifted that high.

Could be one way to tackle it, but I've only ever done body drops, never body lifts. Not sure how it'd work on a 1st Gen.

You can make a lot of things fit with thoughtful backspace/offset selection on wheels, and wheel spacers. With basic 2.5" lift most can tuck 33s with minimal rubbing. If you went a full 4-5" maybe 35s, but a couple of guys here with that much lift and 35s are getting rid of them currently, unhappy for myriads of reasons.

These two statements are in conflict with one another. Rough Country is complete, total, utter hot garbage, which you shouldn't even consider buying. It's cheap for a reason, and several people have signed up here looking for help because Rough Country lifts, installed correctly and not, did significant damage to their trucks. If you're wise, you'll take them off any possibility. Based on other people who showed up with problems related to Rancho, can't recommend them either.

If you really want to get to 4-5" w/o body lifting to get to 35s, be ready to drop between $8k-10k, i.e. sparing no expense. That's not including wheels and tires. Why? With the geometry change and change in articulation, you'll be ultimately needing to change most of the OEM suspension components you're probably not currently thinking about, else something is going to fatigue and fail.

If you are OK settling with 2.5" lift and tucking 33s with minimal (if any) rub (depending on wheel/tire selection and if you get new UCA), be ready to drop $3k-5k not including wheels and tires, and know you need to make a choice: Do you want an adjustable (coilover) lift or a static (strut) lift? That's going to define your path forward. Static lift will cost about 30-40% less, shave off maybe $1k, some guys here doing all their own work have gotten out the door $2k or less with Bilstein 5100s and the right size lifted spring, plus quality UCAs.

Wheels and tires will be setting you back at least another $2k-4k unless you can find a wicked good used deal, so tack that onto the total price tag. Downside to used is you literally have no control over backspace and offset, it's a "get what you get", so you may save $500, then spend $500 buying spacers and other BS to "fix" the fitment. Almost not worth it, unless you're buying from another 1st Gen owner.

But it sounds like you're OK and prepared to (worst case) spend between $9k-$14k on your truck, which is probably about the Blue Book value. Don't forget extra insurance after to cover your ass [EDIT:] in the event you don't use OEM balljoints to save money or something, and it breaks - that happens a LOT btw, there are dozens of pictures like an "album of shame" on this forum - if you need to replace the LBJs (or even UBJs) make sure it's OEM.

That is surprising to me also, based on what others have found, what'd you go with?

Anything you get from Toytec is generally going to be "worth it". As long as you stick with a name brand and install it correctly, and you avoid stupid shit like strut spacers, or don't do stupid stuff like mixing spacers with other lift components which can amplify your end result, you should be fine.

I'd recommend picking up a phone and talking to any of the three vendors I listed above. But just know, before you talk to anyone: Not every vendor is hip to the woes AC and RC owners have using some kits, especially 'pure' OME kits. If you have an AC or RC truck and you order, for example, an Old Man Emu kit that says it's for a 3" lift, you're probably going to be shafted like this guy, i.e. finding your different and lighter frame/chassis fetched more like 4" of lift, and now you need to choose between ripping out that new stuff you just bought & installing a different kit, or making other substantial upgrades to allow proper travel ($$$).

If you have a Double Cab, you can pretty much trust anything that's out there. The market is geared towards your truck, which is closer to a Sequoia, both are very different beasts from the chassis the RC and AC trucks are riding on, which are very similar to each other.

 

Oh crap, almost forgot ... now I have more time to think this one through...

If you do intent to get to 35s, don't forget to add in re-gearing. If you're 4WD, that means re-gearing w/matching front & rear. Add in a grand or three for that.

You'll probably need to tub the firewall for clearance whether 2.5" lift or 6" lift. Don't forget to factor in the cost of that sheet metal work, etc. , this guy was actually able to stuff 35s with a sub-3" lift FWIW, but cut a lot of sheetmetal and plastic, out front and out back - significant surgery.

Your speedo will be off by a few mph even if going 33s, you may want to factor in cost of yellow-boxing to correct, if applicable. With 35s, I'm guessing it'll be off by double-digits at hwy speed, but the few here with 35s may be able to chime in.

You may want to read @Brown Bear 's post about the Tough Country 5" lift, and the 6" he ended up with (link to the 6" RCD lift here) and the cost woes that came with it. And it's confirmation of the cost numbers I'm tossing out (I'm guessing his $8k wasn't incl. tires/wheels, and his friend helped on install work, bet it saved significant $$)