Adding 12v charger to back of bed

Has anyone added a 12v outlet to the back of the bed. Going on a long road trip so would like to add a cooler to the back.

 

Also you can try to find a place locally that sells dry ice. Should last a while.

 

I did. Ran a fused 6 gauge wire from the battery to the bed, added a quick disconnect under the bed and then continued the line up to the back passenger side bed rail. Used a blue sea systems fuse block to run bed lights and two 12v sockets for camera chargers and ARB fridge.

 

I have a 12v cooler that’s works great. With the passenger seat all the way to the front it fits perfectly behind it and keeps our drink and food cold. I want to keep the cooler in the back so we can have more space.

 

Should be easy enough to run a wire from the battery along the frame and up through the bottom tailgate, maybe through one of the drain holes in the front of the bed?

 

@jlee has a nice set up...post #220 here https://www.tundras.com/threads/bamf-2016-crew-max-build.2607/page-8

Something simple like this could also work

 

I think there is 12V on one or both of the trailer plug in's that you could use for a inverter or outlet.

 

In the middle of doing it. Will post pics soon

 

Use this product. Proven and awesome.

https://www.genesisoffroad.com/12vpoweroutlet-p/171-12v.htm

 

I don’t know, but you would need a big wire to run a fridge etc.. This is my loom run to the back for chase and bed lights. That’s 32’ of wire to get from battery to rear bed corner proper.

 

My Fridge doesn't draw much at all but the camera chargers do. I think the thermoelectric coolers are quite a bit higher draw than a fridge. I used 6 gauge to the bed. ARBs kit is 10 gauge and has worked in my Jeep for years. Probably 30 feet or so overall. Grounded behind the tail light.

 

10 gauge is good for 30 amps. I can’t imagine anything you’ll be powering will need that much current.

 

Agreed, but it's not so much about the amperage as it is the voltage drop with lighter gauge wire @ 12v. My ARB fridge has a low voltage cutoff if power reads to low. At 30+ ft of wire it becomes a possibility of kicking in

 

Yes, I could see that being valid.

 

Might be worth it to check into a small on-board generator. Maybe something like this?
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Lifan-En...5035&wl11=online&wl12=100034043&wl13=&veh=sem