How to get rid of the “low volume hiss/static” with a Jl Audio Fix DSP.

So like many I didn’t want to change out my factory head unit...yet. My ultimate goal is to change it out eventually so I can use my drop down monitor and my head unit to play dvd’s and get gps and clearly a better signal for the stereo to begin with.

But back on track my audio build started with a Jl Audio Hd900/5 amp, Fix86, Focal PS165x component speakers in the front and matching Focal 6.5’s in the rear doors, 2 Jl Audio 12’s in a Net Audio custom box. Of course all new wiring was run to everything and wrapped. The doors have about the equivalent of 1.5 Dynomat master install packs in them. Those doors are solid!

Anyway like many after the install I had the low volume hiss. I took it to my buddy and he dialed down the gains to try and get rid of it and it helped a small percentage. I didn’t drive my truck that much for about the next 9 months due to commuting for work. About 6 weeks ago I started driving it 7 days a week and this hiss was driving me insane. I wanted to take the truck back and just tell him to put in a new head unit even though it wasn’t in the budget.

Well I started searching on here and messing with it and ultimately emailing JL Audio to get an answer. I decided I was going to go through all this trouble for 2 reasons:1. I couldn’t stand another minute of that static.,2. I will eventually pull the HU and the Fix and sell the Fix but I first wanted to know it was possible to get a clean signal out of it. If your still reading here’s the steps to fix your Fix.
1. Download the Tun 2.0 software on your Windows computer.
2. Find a usb cable that fits in the fix(check your printer before you go buy one).
3. Hook your computer up to the fix, turn your key on, then open the software.
4. Turn down your volume knob till you hear the hiss. Now on your laptop drag the sliders down to around 50-60%. If this gets rid of it then you need either the DRC-100 or 200. However you could try this step first, remove all outputs from the fix turn your volume up to 52 and run the calibration process again. This got rid of 95% of mine and is recommended from JL Audio. Shut off the truck reconnect the outputs and see if it’s better or if your lucky gone.
5. Adjust gains with fix at 100 output for regular listening. Once your happy turn the volume down to a low level on the HU and listen for hiss if it’s back you can use your DRC to dial down the output getting rid of your hiss while listening to the radio or talk radio or whatever.


It is possible to get these HU to work with aftermarket installs and hopefully this will help you make it an easier process.

 

Well done. I had emailed JL about the fix prior to installing it. They recommend using the DRC-200 as the Master Volume control (and leaving the head unit at 70% volume). It seems like a bad solution since most of us that are using the fix want to keep the factory head unit, and having to use a different volume knob would be bullshit.

Luckily i purchased the DRC-200 along with the Fix86 and like you, right out of the gate (without the drc plugged in) i got the hiss you speak of. I was toast from a long install day, and didn't really feel like messing with it. The next day, i plugged in the DRC, had the HU at low volume (what i have it at with passengers in the car) and turned down the drc volume knob until the hiss went way (at around 75%). Problem solved.

I end up using the head unit's volume knob and the DRC knobs in conjunction. Not the best solution, but it works.

 

I agree. I originally wanted to just leave the knob under my pass seat at a set volume. However when I tried this I basically ended up like I never installed an aftermarket stereo. I was pretty angry. Today I decided to try the higher calibration point and leave the knob out. I have the front fold down console so I leave the knob in front of that. I may mount it if it looks like an aftermarket head unit won’t be happening for a while. Either way it’s nice to be able to listen to the radio at a lower level without any annoying hiss.

 

Are either one of you using a TwK88 or other processor? I'm considering this path and wondering how many components you are using?
I.E.
Factory HU > Fix86 > (TwK88?) > aftermarket amps > aftermarket speakers/subs.
I ask because I'm wondering how much tailoring/tuning you have. And where your x-overs are... At the amps or elsewhere?

 

I am not using the TWK88. So factory HU,Fix86,Jl Audio 900.5 amp, Focal components(front), Matching 6.5’s rear, 2 Jl 12’s. I would have to look to see what the settings are at. I didn’t install mine.

 

Thanks
With that amp the x-overs are in there, it's clean. I'm putting 3-ways up front, thus I need a bit more tweakability and separation(TwK88). Plus multiple amps... Audison 6 channel for the fronts, Audison 4 channel for the rears and TBD monoblock sub amp ( I like the JL HD1200 so far).

 

Joining this thread late, but I did the same thing @Danimal86 did. Set the DRC200 master volume around 75% to get rid of the hiss. I only hear it if the music is paused and i put my ear up to the tweeters. Between road and wind noise, i do not hear it during normally.

 

I’m having the dreaded HISS as well. It seems to have gotten worse over the last few months. I contacted JL and they told me it’s normal to have the HISS. I call BS! The whole premise of the FIX is to get rid of any noise. I hate the fact that I have to use the DRC to control my volume. The problem with the DRC is when you turn it down I lose SQ. It makes sound like I’m listening through a tin can.

I’m about ready to rid it out and buy a new head unit.

 

What volume level did you calibrate it at? Are you using the DRC as the master volume or do you just leave the knob at whatever doesn’t provide static and using the HU volume as master?
I agree that having another volume control knob is a bit annoying especially because it doesn’t come included but if you don’t want to spend 500-2000 dollars on a new HU it’s a much cheaper option and still can provide a clean signal if you work with it.

I wish I could get my new HU installed as well for more reasons then the static.

 

When I calibrated I had hu at about 40 and DRc at all the way up.

I emailed JL support tech that I’ve been working with where the DRc should be set at when calibrating.

I’m going to factory reset the fix and do a fresh calibration again to see if it makes a difference.

I have been leaving the DRc up 100% and using the head unit to control volume. If I use the DRc then I lose all my highs and the system sounds like crap because all I’m hearing is bass and the stock center channel come through with just a little door speakers.

 

If I turn the DRc down to where I don’t hear the hiss I lose all sq from my speakers as mentioned above. So to me using the DRc isn’t a real solution if you ask me. Unless something is wrong with my fix.

 

I didn't have the drc plugged in when calibrating, and had the head unit at 75% volume

This is what i did to get rid of the hiss and still have a great sound:
Set the head unit at the lowest volume you would want it at and still be able to hear the music.
Turn your drc down till the hiss goes away (for me its around 60-75% on the drc knob)
Then use the head unit's volume knob as you normally would.

 

Daniel

Before you calibrated the fix did you unplug the rcas?

 

Yes. Unplug them so you don’t damage the speakers during calibration.

 

Yes, i had the rca's unplugged.

 

this is timely info as i'm about to install this in my truck. thanks.

 

If you are doing the install there is an awesome video on Jl’s website that shows how to set the gains on the amp using a multimeter. If it’s a JL amp anyway.

 

I am so confused by all this. When I asked James about what else I would need for my install and keep the HU he didn't mention any of this. Is the hiss issue only with the JBL system or both?

 

I think it's with any dsp.

Think of if you cranked your surround sound receiver with the tv on mute. It's gonna hiss

 

And I believe you can control the level through the TuN interface, so you don't 100% need the drc. You could set it once and leave it

 

While my intention was do do my install and attempt to keep my head unit, if I have to tear everything out a second time and change out the HU anyway, Im going to be pissed. I'm seriously leaning towards putting off getting the Diamondback cover another month or two and just going ahead and getting a new HU and be done with it...

 

You can control the levels in Tun program however, the second you close the program or disconnect your laptop they default back to 100%. It’s a great tool for free to check to see if the drc knob will fix your problem or if you have some other problem... like if you run a crappy rca next to the amp power cable and you have interference.

 

Thanks for clearing that up!

 

Would this clean up the signal enough that I should be good if I connect the RCA's from the new HU directly to the amp?
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_113DDX6704/Kenwood-DDX6704S.html?tp=72381&avf=Y