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Traction Control - Everything You Want to Know

Discussion in 'General Tundra Discussion' started by KevinK, Feb 17, 2018.

  1. Feb 17, 2018 at 11:06 AM
    #1
    KevinK

    KevinK [OP] SGU - High Speed Overlander

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    I haven’t found a cohesive and definitive description of how traction control works, just a bunch of splintered threads where people ask one-off questions and get individual answers. Perhaps this can help clear some things up.


    Typically, engine torque is distributed to the rear wheels through an open differential. An open differential sends power down the path of least resistance. Great for turns, when the outside wheel has to spin faster than the inside wheel. But not so great if a wheel loses driving traction, because the differential will send all of its torque to the spinning wheel and not push the truck forward.


    The best description of an open differential ever


    https://youtu.be/yYAw79386WI



    Here’s how Toyota have enabled us to keep traction in slippery situations.


    ABS - Antilock Braking System. Prevents wheel lockup during braking to keep control over directional changes while braking hard or in a panic situation. A modern 4-Channel ABS system can individually brake each wheel as needed, and monitors all four wheel speeds in relation to each other. The ABS is always "ON". You cannot (conventionally) shut it off.

    TRAC - Traction Control helps maintain traction on wet, icy, loose or uneven surfaces. When one of the wheels begins to slip, TRAC applies a wheel brake individually to the tire without traction and reduces engine output to help assist the driver with control of the vehicle in a straight line.

    ATRAC - Or A-TRAC, this is Toyota's Active Traction Control. It applies the brakes to stop a spinning wheel. Can also retard engine timing to reduce power applied to the driveline (to prevent breakage of driveline parts). When loss of traction is detected the wheel slip light flashes and you’ll hear ticking noises until traction is returned. ATRAC is defaulted to "ON" when the truck is started in any drive mode (2WD, 4HI, 4LO). (as identified by @Clay Grazer, TRAC is the 2wd term and ATRAC is the 4wd term, but they function the same, so the terms are used interchangeably here)
    Special Note: If you hit the brake pedal while ATRAC is actively working, it shuts off. It will start working again when you release the brake pedal.
    Even More Special Note: Hold the rpms consistently from 1800-2200 rpms. That is the sweet spot of ATRAC. If you hit the pedal harder, ATRAC thinks you are trying to get unstuck from deep mud/snow and releases brake pressure and allows maximum wheel spin to free the vehicle. It also protects the driveline/transfer case/axles/ differentials and braking system/rotors/pads from being over stressed from the high torque of the motor. If you reduce the throttle during a climb and the RPMS drop below 1800, the system stops locking the wheels.
    Super Special Note: A-TRAC only works if at least one tire has traction. On a sheet of ice where all 4 tires are on ice without traction, from a stand-still, climbing an incline, the only thing you can do is give her the beans and build some momentum. Good luck.

    VSC - Vehicle Stability Control. Uses the ABS sensors along with steering wheel sensor and yaw sensors to determine if the vehicle is not following the path intended by the driver. Will apply brakes and cut throttle to "steer" the vehicle back into the intended line of travel. VSC is defaulted to "ON".

    Auto LSD - Automatic Limited Slip Differential. The Auto LSD senses wheel speed differences between the two REAR tires only, and lightly applies the brakes to add drag to the wheel that does not have traction. This simulates having traction to that wheel and forces equal amounts of power to both sides of the differential. If the initial light pressure does not work, the system will gradually apply more "drag" to that wheel to help send power to the other side of the axle. It does not cut power from the engine. Auto LSD only works in 2wd, and is defaulted to "OFF".


    Pushing Buttons

    In 2wd:
    Normal (no buttons pressed, no dash lights on) = Truck will detect wheel spin and retard engine timing along with application of the brakes to the spinning wheel as needed. Vehicle Stability Control is on. ATRAC is on. Auto LSD is off.

    One Push ("Auto LSD" light on) = Same as Normal, but with the addition of the Auto LSD function. Auto LSD overrides the ATRAC function, so the truck does not cut power from the engine. VSC is still on.

    One Push and Hold for 3 Seconds ("Auto LSD" light on, "VSC OFF" light on) = Same as One Push, but without VSC functionality.

    Second Push and Hold for 3 Seconds ("Auto LSD" light off, "VSC OFF" light on,"Traction Control OFF" light on) = No functionality of the ATRAC, Auto LSD, or VSC systems. The truck does not intervene when traction or directional stability is lost.


    In 4wd High:
    Normal (no buttons pressed, no dash lights on) = Truck will detect wheel spin and retard engine timing along with application of the brakes to the spinning wheel as needed. Vehicle Stability Control is on. ATRAC is on. Auto LSD is off (does not function in 4wd.)

    One Push ("Traction Control OFF" light on) = Same as Normal, but without the ATRAC function. VSC is still on.

    One Push and Hold for 3 Seconds ("Traction Control OFF" light on, "VSC OFF" light on) = Same as One Push, but without VSC functionality. The truck does not intervene when traction or directional stability is lost.


    In 4wd Low:
    Normal (no buttons pressed, "VSC OFF" light on) = Truck will detect wheel spin and retard engine timing along with application of the brakes to the spinning wheel as needed. Vehicle Stability Control is off by default. ATRAC is on. Auto LSD is off (does not function in 4wd.)

    One Push ("Traction Control OFF" light on) = Same as Normal, but without the ATRAC function. VSC is still off. The truck does not intervene when traction or directional stability is lost


    Scenarios for Use

    Deep Mud, Snow, Sand
    Already stuck or high possibility
    (maybe you’ve seen someone else stuck here or you know it’s deep)
    4HI - Push and hold for 3 seconds ("Traction Control OFF" light on, "VSC OFF" light on). This will allow all wheels to spin when they lose traction which allows the tires to clear the mud or snow out of the tread and gain grip as it hits the snow or mud again. In this case spinning of the tires is helpful in ‘flinging’ the debris out of the tread so they don’t become smooth butter balls. The engine won’t cut power.
    4LO - One Push ("Traction Control OFF" light on). Puts the truck into the same mode as the 4Hi setting above and allows the tires to spin at speed, clearing mud and snow from the tread.
    Tire pressures - dropping to about 15 psi of tire pressure in the snow and sand will create a larger footprint for the tire to grab with. High speed handling will be imparied - don’t be a dipshit and go flying around the trails and streets on these new marshmallows.


    Slick Mud, Snow, Ice
    Just driving along, not too deep
    4HI, 4LO
    - Normal (no buttons pressed, no dash lights on) = Truck will detect wheel spin and retard engine timing along with application of the brakes to the spinning wheel as needed. Vehicle Stability Control is on (4HI only. Off by default in 4LO). ATRAC is on.


    Hill Climbing - 4HI and 4LO - No button push (A-TRAC will be active). This mode allows the truck to lock up individual wheels as they lose traction during the climb. This is particularly helpful in cross-axle situations where one front tire is in the air, and the opposite rear tire is also in the air (from the back your axles look like an X). Keep steady on the throttle between 1800-2200 rpm and don’t press the brake pedal unless you need to stop. The old trick of powerbraking used to be handy on older vehicles with open diffs - don’t do that with your Tundra in A-TRAC as it will pause functioning.
    Loud Noises and Blinky Lights! You may hear the system working and it may sound scary at first. There will be some Tick, Tick, Tick noises from under the hood and at the wheels, and possibly the squealing of brakes - this is the sound of technology at work. The AutoLSD light flashes when A-TRAC is active - bask in it’s warm glow.
    Tire Pressures - Dropping to 20-25 psi will provide a better footprint on regular dirt and still have a firm enough sidewall that you can go a decent speed in the dirt. Don't do 90mph emergency lane changes at this tire pressure on the street.


    Hauling Ass in the Dirt - 2WD, 4HI - Probably best to not push any buttons as the nannies can help keep you in a straight line. But, if you’re adventurous, turning traction control off will allow slides and drifts. Enjoy at your own peril - it’s my preferred mode off road.


    I bought a 2WD but still wanna have some offroadage - 2WD in a tundra can get you a long way down the trail and can improve your driving skill immensely (ie. selecting lines based on keeping both rear tires relatively level). In this case AutoLSD is your friend. The same RPM range applies, and it will make some ticking noises when it's working. It must see at one wheel spinning. Most people make 2 common mistakes.

    1. Rrrrrr… I'm stuck and let go of the throttle = not long enough for the system to see the need, so it never kicked in.

    2. Hold my beer BRRRRAAAAWWWWRRAAAWWWRRA BRAP BRAP BRAP BRAP… It didn't work AutoLSD is crap. Too much skinny pedal Einstein... Gotta keep it between 1500-2000 rpm and let the free wheel spin. The light will blink and there will be tick tick tick noises and Viola you're scooting along.


    2WD Sand - You should invest in some traction boards with all the money you saved on initial purchase price and the improved fuel economy. If you're stuck, stop spinning - you're just making more work for yourself. Put it in park and don't freak out unless the chupacabra, Bigfoot or other applicable regional monster is after you (probably should also invest in some personal protection gear within the laws of your state - sorry Cali you're fucked).

    Find a destination with solid ground (hopefully not too far in front of your truck). Get the traction boards setup properly and leave all the nannies ON. If you spin tires on your traction boards it will destroy them, so use a soft throttle input.

    If you are really stuck deep, don't let a bro-dozer use a regular tow strap or chain to yank you out, they don't stretch and its a huge shock load. It’s the equivalent of nipple clamps on your wife/gf and you get a running start moving away from them… it ends with something broken on either truck (or on your wife/ gf and you depending on where it was, ahem, connected…) Get a proper kinetic rope and learn how to use it. There are many out there now that are downright affordable… ok 2WD rant off


    Here's a super handy quick reference guide put together by @Clay Grazer that illustrates everything well:

    [​IMG]


    Example of ATRAC in action in 2WD cross axle situation. Notice how the wheel in the air stops moving and then the truck moves forward because the torque is sent to the wheel with traction.


    https://youtu.be/WPaJBJQZq5s



    Here’s an example where only one tire has traction and the ATRAC pulls the truck. Again, this is on by default when you start the truck and put it in 4WD.


    https://youtu.be/U1MOEZYAv5Q



    Now I have a question for other users


    I’ve noticed if I’m in 4wd when I start the truck (assume we’re already off road and have stopped to pee), and I single press the VSC Off button, the dash will display “Traction Control Off”, but only until we exceed 35 mph, at which point it defaults back to traction control on. To get around this, I’ve been shifting back to 2WD, press and hold the button 2 times in order to get traction control off, and then switch back into 4WD.


    Does anyone else have insight into the traction control system changing modes on it’s own at certain speeds?



    Disclaimer and Credit

    I've largely compiled this info from other posters around the interwebs, so the credit belongs to all those who have shared knowledge.

    I've also attached part of the owners manual for a second gen Tundra so you can see exactly how Toyota explains it.

    If you fuck shit up off road by using the information found here, you're on your own dumbass. Practice safe wheeling by learning in a safe environment with friends who can help you get unstuck/unfucked.

    Not responsible for unforeseen consequences of use including but not limited to: heightened arousal at the thought of off roading, gluttonous appetite for tire smoke, liquefied dinosaurs turned into noise, a big ol chubby that don't fit between the seat and the steering wheel anymore, stealatization of your time for adventures with or without spousal approval, nail fungus, shortness of breath, longness of breath, muttering 'fuck yeah' under your breath when you climb something dope for the first time (or any time after that).
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Feb 25, 2019
  2. Feb 17, 2018 at 11:14 AM
    #2
    KevinK

    KevinK [OP] SGU - High Speed Overlander

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  3. Feb 17, 2018 at 11:23 AM
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    Darth Tundra

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    Very good post !!!!!
     
  4. Feb 17, 2018 at 11:44 AM
    #4
    Steve6

    Steve6 New Member

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    Nice post and a good summary. Really like the old videos too.
     
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  5. Feb 17, 2018 at 11:55 AM
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    mdavis

    mdavis I need a beer.

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  6. Feb 17, 2018 at 12:04 PM
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    TRON

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  7. Feb 17, 2018 at 12:32 PM
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    dcsleeper408

    dcsleeper408 BASTRDS

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    A lot of it makes more sense now.

    I am arroused and ready to do some stupid stuff in the dirt now!
    Thanks @KevinK !
     
  8. Feb 17, 2018 at 12:42 PM
    #8
    KevinK

    KevinK [OP] SGU - High Speed Overlander

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    Someone read the disclaimer... ;)
     
  9. Feb 17, 2018 at 12:48 PM
    #9
    Upgrayedd

    Upgrayedd Toyotaholic

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    Awesome explanation. I didn’t know about the second push and hold to shut everything off.

    I still haven’t really played with mine yet other than make sure 4wd works. Not much off roading to be done at the mall.
     
  10. Feb 17, 2018 at 1:56 PM
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    JH5370

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    Well done! Thanks for posting this.
     
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  11. Feb 17, 2018 at 3:57 PM
    #11
    KevinK

    KevinK [OP] SGU - High Speed Overlander

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    Here are some thoughts on when you might use the different modes. Let me know if you can think of others and I'll add them to the OP.


    Scenarios for Use

    Mud, Snow, Sand - 4HI - Push and hold for 3 seconds ("Traction Control OFF" light on, "VSC OFF" light on). This will allow all wheels to spin when they lose traction which allows the tires to clear the mud or snow out of the tread and gain grip as it hits the snow or mud again. In this case spinning of the tires is helpful in ‘flinging’ the debris out of the tread so they don’t become smooth butter balls. The engine won’t cut power.
    Mud, Snow, Sand - 4LO - One Push ("Traction Control OFF" light on). Puts the truck into the same mode as the 4Hi setting above and allows the tires to spin at speed, clearing mud and snow from the tread.
    Tire pressures - dropping to about 15 psi of tire pressure in the snow and sand will create a larger footprint for the tire to grab with. High speed handling will be imparied - don’t be a dipshit and go flying around the trails and streets on these new marshmallows.


    Hill Climbing - 4HI and 4LO - No button push (A-TRAC will be active). This mode allows the truck to lock up individual wheels as they lose traction during the climb. This is particularly helpful in cross-axle situations where one front tire is in the air, and the opposite rear tire is also in the air (from the back your axles look like an X). Keep steady on the throttle between 1800-2200 rpm and don’t press the brake pedal unless you need to stop. The old trick of powerbraking used to be handy on older vehicles with open diffs - don’t do that with your Tundra in A-TRAC as it will pause functioning.
    Loud Noises and Blinky Lights! You may hear the system working and it may sound scary at first. There will be some Tick, Tick, Tick noises from under the hood and at the wheels, and possibly the squealing of brakes - this is the sound of technology at work. The AutoLSD light flashes when A-TRAC is active - bask in it’s warm glow.
    Tire Pressures - Dropping to 20-25 psi will provide a better footprint on regular dirt and still have a firm enough sidewall that you can go a decent speed in the dirt. Don't do 90mph emergency lane changes at this tire pressure on the street.

    Hauling Ass in the Dirt - 2WD, 4HI - Probably best to not push any buttons as the nannies can help keep you in a straight line. But, if you’re adventurous, turning traction control off will allow slides and drifts. Enjoy at your own peril - it’s my preferred mode off road.
     
  12. Feb 17, 2018 at 5:51 PM
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    Eclipsed & Floating

    Eclipsed & Floating Over it.........

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    Damn.....now I’m ready for this freakin snow to melt, or move to AZ
     
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  13. Feb 17, 2018 at 5:53 PM
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    Eclipsed & Floating

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    Fantastic write up for those of us that know enough to be dangerous, but not enough that we end up being dangerous. Now I’m ready to wheel with some folks that know what they’re doing instead of solo or novice debauchery
     
  14. Feb 17, 2018 at 6:31 PM
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    Kilos

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    Best disclaimer ever :yay:
     
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  15. Feb 17, 2018 at 6:44 PM
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    831Tun

    831Tun heartless Bastrd

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    Great info Kevin thanks. @joonbug and I were out testing this today after reading the posts in @TRON's build page.
     
  16. Feb 17, 2018 at 7:01 PM
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    tundraj

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    Can't decide which was the best part of the video, the motorcycle formation riding or the couple doing log rolls on their back tires.
     
  17. Feb 17, 2018 at 7:44 PM
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    Spitfire

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    I'm guessing I will need to press twice and hold the second time when I take my truck on the beach.. haven't taken it yet but will soon
     
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  18. Feb 18, 2018 at 12:14 AM
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    831Tun

    831Tun heartless Bastrd

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    I'm gonna have to print this up as a cheat sheet and stuff it in the visor pocket, I can't remember all this chit.:goingcrazy:
     
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  19. Feb 18, 2018 at 4:28 AM
    #19
    zackbremer

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    maybe for deep snow turing off trac control may help and let you throttle out of stuff and not lose power, but under 6in or your normal snowy icey road 4hi works great for keep the truck from sliding off the road. a spinning tire is a sliding tire which means no steering...coming into corners to fast i def want the toyota computer trac system working for me
     
  20. Feb 18, 2018 at 4:55 AM
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    Broncobroke

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    Awesome thread guys. Making me rethink my plans for the truck. You guys that take the time to write all this up and share your knowledge it is greatly appreciated.
     
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  21. Feb 18, 2018 at 8:52 AM
    #21
    KevinK

    KevinK [OP] SGU - High Speed Overlander

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    That’s a great point Zack. I should add a note that my scenario above is more for if you’re stuck and trying to get out of a mud/snow/sand situation, or attempting to cross a known deep section that may have previously stuck another truck. :thumbsup:
     
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  22. Feb 18, 2018 at 9:08 AM
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    Eclipsed & Floating

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    I tried an icy hill last night in 2wd at a slow rate to attempt a traction control approach...not happening! Back down the hill and went 4hi....nope. 4lo.....nope. All of which were low speeds and low RPMS.....nada.

    Backed down the hill, 4hi and punched the fucking gas and made it with out a single tire spinning. So, our theory might not work on 30+ degree pitches if it’s a sheet of ice unless I was not fully engaging TRAC nor ATRAC
     
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  23. Feb 18, 2018 at 9:15 AM
    #23
    KevinK

    KevinK [OP] SGU - High Speed Overlander

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    This is actually a prefect example of when A-TRAC does and does not work.

    A-TRAC needs at least one wheel with traction in order to work. If all 4 are on a sheet of ice, especially on an incline, your only option is momentum.

    Another great example to add to the OP. Thanks Mark!
     
  24. Feb 18, 2018 at 9:19 AM
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    Eclipsed & Floating

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    I’ll go try that hill again tomorrow. Today’s too windy so none of it will melt to give me a little dirt to press on
     
  25. Feb 18, 2018 at 9:20 AM
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    NCinCO

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    What is going on when the engine/truck is cold and I pull out of a slanted parking lot while turning it seems as if the transmission doesn't engage until it's flat again? Which system is causing that, Auto LSD not on?
     
  26. Feb 18, 2018 at 9:21 AM
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    Is there ice, snow, or are you in 4wd?
     
  27. Feb 18, 2018 at 9:32 AM
    #27
    KevinK

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    Would you leave the nannies on for regular mud driving too? I'm torn because I feel like it depends on the situation. Typically mud is found at relatively low speed situations, but there can be long stretches of slick clay in different parts of the country.

    As I write this, I think Mud and Snow deserve similar settings. Low speed and possibility of getting stuck - nannies off. Higher speed - nannies on.
     
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  28. Feb 18, 2018 at 9:36 AM
    #28
    Eclipsed & Floating

    Eclipsed & Floating Over it.........

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    Density of snow/mud will also play into the equation. Wet and sloppy snow becomes much more slippery. Cold and dry is almost grippy. I’m assuming mid could be similar. A think and slimy mud more slippery, yet a dense almost dry mud would have more grip.

    Also, something to consider would be tire rating and tread depth/inflation pressure.
     
    KevinK[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  29. Feb 18, 2018 at 10:47 AM
    #29
    NCinCO

    NCinCO Is it Friday yet?

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    No snow or ice. Dry pavement.
     
  30. Feb 18, 2018 at 11:14 AM
    #30
    KevinK

    KevinK [OP] SGU - High Speed Overlander

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    Added this to the OP from another buddy. I left the nipple clamp reference in because it's a good reminder to be careful when snatching a truck out of a stuck.


    I bought a 2WD but still wanna have some offroadage - 2WD in a tundra can get you a long way down the trail and can improve your driving skill immensely (ie. selecting lines based on keeping both rear tires relatively level). In this case AutoLSD is your friend. The same RPM range applies, and it will make some ticking noises when it's working. It must see at one wheel spinning. Most people make 2 common mistakes.

    1. Rrrrrr… I'm stuck and let go of the throttle = not long enough for the system to see the need, so it never kicked in.

    2. Hold my beer BRRRRAAAAWWWWRRAAAWWWRRA BRAP BRAP BRAP BRAP… It didn't work AutoLSD is crap. Too much skinny pedal Einstein... Gotta keep it between 1500-2000 rpm and let the free wheel spin. The light will blink and there will be tick tick tick noises and Viola you're scooting along.


    2WD Sand - You should invest in some traction boards with all the money you saved on initial purchase price and the improved fuel economy. If you're stuck, stop spinning - you're just making more work for yourself. Put it in park and don't freak out unless the chupacabra, Bigfoot or other applicable regional monster is after you (probably should also invest in some personal protection gear within the laws of your state - sorry Cali you're fucked).

    Find a destination with solid ground (hopefully not too far in front of your truck). Get the traction boards setup properly and leave all the nannies ON. If you spin tires on your traction boards it will destroy them, so use a soft throttle input.

    If you are really stuck deep, don't let a bro-dozer use a regular tow strap or chain to yank you out, they don't stretch and its a huge shock load. It’s the equivalent of nipple clamps on your wife/gf and you get a running start moving away from them… it ends with something broken on either truck (or on your wife/ gf and you depending on where it was, ahem, connected…) Get a proper kinetic rope and learn how to use it. There are many out there now that are downright affordable… ok 2WD rant off
     
    tinman10101 and Watt maker like this.

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